Onion Soup

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1 hour

M O

Here, time transforms one of the world’s most common ingredients into a spectacularly satisfying soup. You can make stock in a separate pot while the onions cook, but using water also works well: Add two more bay leaves, a stalk of celery, a whole carrot, and a couple of parsley sprigs if you have them, and simmer the soup for 10 to 15 minutes longer; discard whatever you added just before serving. Many variations follow, so be sure to check ’em out.

• 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter or olive oil
• 4 large yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced (about 6 cups)
• Leaves of 2 or 3 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 whole head garlic, cut crosswise at the bottom to reveal the cloves
• Salt and pepper
• 5 cups vegetable stock (pages 97–100) or water
• 2 tablespoons cognac, Armagnac, or brandy (optional)

1. Put the butter in a large pot over medium heat. When it foams, add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until they’re quite soft and begin to brown. This will take 30 to 45 minutes; don’t rush it.
2. Add the thyme, bay leaf, and garlic, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring almost constantly for a minute before adding the stock and the cognac if you’re using it.
3. Bring to a boil, then adjust the heat so that bubbles occasionally break the surface, and cook, undisturbed, until the onions fall apart and the broth darkens, 30 to 45 minutes. (You can make the soup in advance up to this point. Cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 days.) Remove the garlic and bay leaf, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve hot.

Classic Onion Soup with Cheese Croutons 
Turn the broiler on high and move the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. Cut 4 large, thick slices of crusty bread, and toast them under the broiler, flip them over, rub each with a clove of garlic, and top each with about ¼ cup grated Parmesan, cheddar, or Gruyère cheese or spread with a thin layer of fresh goat cheese. Return to the broiler until the cheese melts, browns, and bubbles. Divide the hot soup among 4 bowls and float a slice of bread in each.

Smoky Onion Soup with Almonds When the soup is done, combine ½ cup almonds, 2 teaspoons smoked paprika, and ½ teaspoon ground cumin in a blender or food processor and turn the machine on. Slowly and carefully add some of the broth, a little bit at a time, until the mixture is as smooth as you can get it. Stir the mixture back into the soup and serve, garnished with chopped parsley.

Caramelized Leek Soup Instead of the onions, use about 2 pounds leeks. Trim so the tender green parts remain; rinse well, even between the leaves, then slice crosswise. (You still want about 6 cups.) Proceed with the main recipe or any of the variations.