Roasted Beet Borscht

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 1½ hours, mostly unattended, plus time to chill if desired

M O

Roasting the beets concentrates their sweet, earthy flavor and turns the soup a deep purple. No, it’s not the way my grandmother made her borscht, but I know she would approve because it tastes so good. She wouldn’t have used golden or candy-striped Chioggia beets either — she probably never saw them — but feel free; their sunny colors are awesome. Like her version, this borscht and its variations are good hot or cold.

• About 2½ pounds beets (any kind), peeled and quartered
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt and pepper
• 1 large white onion, chopped
• 1 bunch fresh dill, stems and fronds separated
• 4 hard-cooked eggs (optional)
• 1 pound waxy potatoes, boiled until tender and kept hot for garnish (optional)
• Fresh lemon juice
• Sour cream or yogurt for serving (optional)

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Put the beets in a single layer in a large rimmed baking sheet or roasting pan, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil, and sprinkle with salt and lots of pepper. Toss to distribute the oil. Roast, turning the pieces once or twice with a spatula, until a thin-bladed knife pierces a piece with little resistance, 30 to 40 minutes. (You can prepare the beets up to this point. Cool, cover tightly, and refrigerate for up to 2 days before proceeding.) When cool enough to handle, chop the beets as finely as possible by hand or by pulsing in the food processor.
2. Put the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large pot and turn the heat to medium-high. When it’s hot, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally until soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-low and continue cooking, stirring once in a while, until the onion is golden and very tender, 10 to 15 minutes more.
3. Add the beets and stir. Tie the stems of the dill in a bundle with string and add them along with 6 cups water. Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce the heat so it bubbles gently. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the soup is brightly colored and the beets are starting to melt away, 10 to 15 minutes.
4. Chop the dill fronds. Slice or chop the eggs and potatoes if you’re using them. Remove the dill stems from the soup and add lemon juice to taste. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve the borscht topped with the chopped dill and any of the garnishes you like, and pass the sour cream at the table if you’re using it.

Roasted Mushroom Borscht With a deeper, earthy flavor: Start with 1 pound beets and 2 pounds mushrooms like shiitake, cremini, portobello, button, or a mixture of these. Trim the mushrooms but leave them whole and add them to the beets in the pan in Step 1. When the beets and mushrooms are roasted, chop as directed in Step 1 and proceed to Step 2.

Vegan Roasted Beet Borscht Skip the eggs and sour cream or yogurt. Instead, garnish the soup with roasted or grilled vegetables, cubed raw or baked firm tofu (page 485) or a dollop of soft silken tofu, or a sprinkle of chopped cashews or pistachios. V

Borscht Consommé An elegant and unusual starter: Replace the water with 6 cups vegetable stock or Mushroom Stock (page 97 or 99) and add a bay leaf. In Step 3 continue to cook the vegetables until the beets become very tender and break apart. Strain; discard the solids or save them for another use (along with the mushrooms if you’re making that variation). Return the liquid to the pot and add lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste. Reheat and serve hot, with or without a spoonful of sour cream, garnished with the dill or some chives.