Smoky Eggplant and Zucchini Soup

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 1½ hours, mostly unattended

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In Spain, a hearty, chunky soup similar to minestrone is likely to begin with roasting summertime Mediterranean vegetables, which yields a more robust flavor (and takes a little more time). Extra smokiness comes from a hit of pimentón — smoked paprika.

• 1 large eggplant, peeled
• 2 zucchini or summer squash
• 2 red bell peppers
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 head garlic, separated into cloves and peeled
• 6 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt and pepper
• 2 large tomatoes, chopped, or 1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes
• 1 tablespoon smoked paprika
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 6 cups vegetable stock (pages 97–100) or water
• ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley for garnish

1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Cut the eggplant, zucchini, and bell pepper into 1- to 2-inch chunks, all roughly the same size. Put the vegetables on two rimmed baking sheets or in one large roasting pan. Scatter the onion and garlic on top, drizzle with 4 tablespoons of the olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss to coat all the vegetables. Roast, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft and well browned, 45 to 60 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, put the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the tomatoes and cook, stirring constantly, until they start to sizzle and release some of their juices. Lower the heat so the mixture sizzles gently and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes look jammy, 15 to 20 minutes. Sprinkle with the paprika and cumin and stir until fragrant. Turn off the heat until the roasted vegetables are ready.
3. Add the roasted vegetables to the tomatoes. Put the pan (or if using two pans, work with one at a time) over two burners set on medium-high, and add 1 cup of the stock. Once the liquid starts bubbling, scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen any browned bits. Carefully pour the mixture into the pot with the tomatoes along with the remaining stock.
4. Bring the soup to a boil, then lower the heat so it bubbles gently but steadily. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very soft and the soup comes together, 5 to 10 minutes. (You can make the soup in advance up to this point. Cool, cover, refrigerate for up to 2 days.) Taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve, garnished with the parsley.

Smoky Root Vegetable Soup Instead of the eggplant, zucchini, and bell pepper, use a total of 2 pounds mixed root vegetables like carrot, parsnip, celery root, rutabaga, turnip, and/or sweet potato or other potatoes. Use canned tomatoes instead of fresh. The vegetables will take at least 1 hour to roast.

Smoky Winter Squash Soup Pumpkin, butternut, kabocha — all good choices: Figure about 2½ pounds before peeling, trimming, and seeding. Substitute canned tomatoes for the fresh. Squash will take about 1 hour to roast.