Egg “Noodle” Soup with Mushrooms

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 45 minutes

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The “noodles” in this soup are made entirely of beaten eggs, which are cooked in a thin layer until just set. Once the sheets of egg cool down a bit and become pliable, you simply roll them up and slice it crosswise into coils of egg “noodles.” These tender ribbons hold up well in soups, adding texture and flavor.

This is also an easy way to add eggs to all sorts of dishes, from salads and sandwiches to rice and pasta, especially since the “noodles” can be made ahead and refrigerated.

• 4 eggs
• 3 tablespoons good-quality vegetable oil
• 8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded or reserved for stock, caps thinly sliced
• Salt and pepper
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 4 scallions, thinly sliced on the diagonal
• 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 teaspoons sesame oil
• 6 cups vegetable stock (pages 97–100) or water
• 7 ounces firm tofu (½ block), cut into small cubes (optional)
• ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro for garnish

1. Whisk the eggs with 2 teaspoons water in a small bowl. Add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to a small nonstick pan over medium heat. When it’s hot, pour a small amount of the egg into the pan, tilting it from side to side so the egg completely covers the bottom; it should be very thin. Cook until the top is firm, 1 minute or less; carefully flip it over and cook for another 15 seconds or so. Transfer to a cutting board. Repeat until you use up all the egg, piling them on top of one another. Roll them up and cut across into thin strips.
2. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the mushrooms, a large pinch of salt, and plenty of pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms release their liquid and the pot gets dry again, 5 to 10 minutes. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until they’re as browned as you like them, 5 to 10 minutes more.
3. Stir in the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until it’s softened, 2 or 3 minutes. Add the scallions and sesame seeds, and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, 1 or 2 minutes. Add the soy sauce, sesame oil, and stock, and scrape with a wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Raise the heat to high, bring to a boil, then lower the heat so the soup bubbles gently but steadily.
4. Add the egg “noodles” and the tofu if you’re using it. Stir once. Taste and adjust the seasoning, garnish with cilantro, and serve.

Egg “Noodle” Soup with Bean Threads Two unusual “noodles,” combined: Before starting the soup, soak 2 bundles (4 ounces) bean thread noodles in warm tap water until transparent and pliable (see page 331). Keep in the water until ready to use, then drain and cut with scissors into manageable pieces. Stir into soup just before adding the egg “noodles.”