Sautéed Mushrooms

Makes: 4 servings

Time: About 20 minutes

F M O

There are two ways you can improve almost any mushroom dish: Use something other than button mushrooms and/or include a portion of reconstituted dried mushrooms, preferably porcini. The affinity between fresh and dried mushrooms is such that dried mushrooms make the tame supermarket ones considerably better.

Start with the basic recipe, then try the additions.

• ¼ cup olive oil or a mixture of oil and butter
• About 1 pound mushrooms (preferably an assortment), trimmed and sliced
• A handful of dried porcini mushrooms (optional), reconstituted (see page 217)
• Salt and pepper
• ¼ cup dry white wine or water
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• Chopped fresh parsley for garnish (optional)

1. Put the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the mushrooms, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Add the wine and let it bubble away for a minute, then turn the heat down to medium-low. Add the garlic, stir, and cook for 1 minute. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature, garnished with parsley if you like.

Spicy Sautéed Mushrooms In Step 1, use good-quality vegetable oil, start with shiitake mushrooms if possible (discard the stems), add a dried chile or 2 to the mix, and use lots of black pepper. In Step 2, use water; add 1 tablespoon soy sauce or to taste, along with the garlic. Garnish with cilantro instead of parsley. V

6 Additions to Sautéed Mushrooms

1. Use any fresh herb you like, but especially chopped fresh chives (a handful), chopped fresh chervil (a handful), tarragon (a few fresh leaves or a pinch dried), or thyme (a teaspoon or so fresh), along with the garlic.
2. Finish with a teaspoon or more fresh lemon juice or vinegar; sherry vinegar is especially nice.
3. Substitute chopped shallot (¼ cup or so), scallions (½ cup or so), or onion (½ cup or so) for the garlic, cooking for 2 or 3 minutes longer.
4. Finish the dish with ½ cup to 1 cup heavy cream or sour cream, simmering gently (don’t let sour cream boil; it will curdle). This is best if you cook the mushrooms in butter from the start and use scallions in place of the garlic.
5. In the Spicy variation, stir in 1 tablespoon Chile Paste (page 664) or red or Green Curry Paste (page 666), or to taste, along with the garlic.
6. In the Spicy variation, stir in 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds (see page 299) with the garlic and finish with a teaspoon or more sesame oil.