Pad Thai

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 30 minutes

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Though you probably first fell in love with pad Thai in a Thai restaurant, it’s easy to make at home. Cucumber Salad with Soy and Ginger (page 49) or Edamame Salad with Seaweed “Mayo” (page 75) would make a great accompaniment.

• 12 ounces dried flat ¼-inch-thick rice noodles
• 5 tablespoons good-quality vegetable oil
• 3 eggs, lightly beaten
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 8 ounces pressed tofu (see page 483) or extra-firm tofu, prepared by any of the methods on page 483 or blotted dry, sliced
• 2 scallions, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths
• 1 cup bean sprouts
• 2 tablespoons Fishless Fish Sauce (page 656) or soy sauce
• 2 teaspoons tamarind paste or ketchup
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• ¼ cup chopped peanuts
• ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 2 chiles (preferably Thai), seeded, and sliced (optional)
• 1 lime, cut into wedges

1. Put the noodles in a bowl and pour boiling water over them to cover. Soak until softened, at least 15 minutes; if you want to hold them longer, drain them, fill the bowl with cold water, and return the noodles to the bowl.
2. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the eggs and scramble quickly for the first minute or so with a fork almost flat against the bottom of the pan; you’re aiming for a thin egg crêpe, one with the smallest curd you can make. Cook just until set, then transfer the crêpe to a cutting board. Cut into ¼-inch-wide strips and set aside.
3. Raise the heat to high and add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. When it’s is hot, add the garlic, tofu, scallions, and half the bean sprouts and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic and scallions have softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a plate.
4. Put the drained noodles, eggs, “fish” sauce, tamarind paste, and sugar in the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until the noodles are heated through. Add the tofu mixture. Toss once or twice to combine, then transfer to a serving platter. Top with the peanuts, cilantro, chiles if you’re using them, and the remaining bean sprouts. Serve with the lime wedges on the side.

Eggless Pad Thai Equally satisfying: Omit the eggs and reduce the oil to 2 tablespoons. You can add a tablespoon or 2 of peanut or almond butter in Step 4, if you’d like, for a creamier, filling sauce. V

Pad Kee Mao Another takeout favorite: Omit the eggs, bean sprouts, tamarind paste, peanuts, and cilantro and reduce the oil to 3 tablespoons. Increase the Fishless Fish Sauce to ¼ cup and whisk with 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 teaspoon rice vinegar, and the sugar. Crumble the tofu into the skillet with the garlic and chiles and cook until golden and softened, about 5 minutes; remove with a slotted spoon. Cook 1 onion, sliced, and 1 cup sliced red bell pepper until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Return the tofu mixture, noodles, and sauce to the skillet and cook until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Garnish with a handful of holy or Thai basil. V