Potato Gnocchi

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 1½ hours

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If all the gnocchi you’ve ever had were hard and chewy, try these. With just a bit of practice you’ll soon be making the lightest, fluffiest gnocchi you’ve ever eaten. Starchy potatoes are a must here (waxy ones will not work), as it’s the potatoes’ starch, in addition to the gluten in the flour, that holds the dough together.

• 1 pound baking potatoes
• Salt and pepper
• About 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

1. Put the potatoes in a large pot with water to cover and salt it. Bring to a boil, then adjust the heat so the water simmers and cook until the potatoes are quite tender, about 45 minutes. Drain the potatoes and peel while still hot; use a pot holder or towel to hold the potatoes and peel with a paring knife — it will be easy. Rinse the pot, refill with salted water, and bring to a boil.
2. Use a fork, potato masher, or ricer to mash or rice the potatoes in a bowl, along with some salt and pepper. Add about ½ cup flour and stir; add more flour a little at a time until the mixture forms a dough you can handle. Knead for a minute or so on a lightly floured work surface. Pinch off a piece of the dough and boil it to make sure it will hold its shape; if it does not, knead in a bit more flour. The idea is to make a dough with as little flour and kneading as possible.
3. Roll a piece of the dough into a rope about ½ inch thick, then cut the rope into 1-inch lengths. Spin each piece off the tines of a fork to score it lightly. As each gnoccho is ready, put it on a sheet of wax paper; do not allow them to touch.
4. A few at a time, add the gnocchi to the boiling water and stir. A minute after they rise to the surface, the gnocchi are done; remove with a slotted spoon. Put in a bowl and sauce or reheat in butter within a few minutes; these do not keep well.

Spinach Gnocchi A lovely green color and subtle spinach flavor: Stem, rinse, and steam 10 ounces fresh spinach, or thaw 5 ounces frozen spinach. Drain the spinach, squeeze to get as much water out as possible, and mince. Add to the potatoes with a pinch of nutmeg if desired.

Eggplant Gnocchi Great with Fast Tomato Sauce (page 312): Add 1 cup mashed roasted eggplant pulp, drained of any liquid, to the potatoes. You may need a little more flour.

Carrot or Beet Gnocchi Peel and grate ½ pound carrots or beets. Cook in 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-low heat, seasoning to taste, until very soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and purée until smooth. Add it to the potatoes (you’ll most likely need an extra ¼ cup flour).