Steamed Dumplings

Makes: 24 dumplings; 4 to 6 servings

Time: 40 minutes

M

This is a simplified, streamlined stuffing, but you can get as elaborate as you like; there are few limits to the vegetables you can use in dumplings. The only secret is to include something slightly starchy, or to bind with an egg, so the stuffing doesn’t fall out of the wrapper when you take a bite.

As long as your stuffing isn’t too moist, you can refrigerate the stuffed dumplings for an hour or so before cooking, or freeze them for up to a few weeks. Dust them with flour first to prevent sticking. But they really are best if you can stuff and cook in one fell swoop.

• 8 ounces firm tofu
• ¼ cup chopped scallions
• 1 cup chopped leeks, Napa cabbage, or bok choy
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
• 1 teaspoon rice wine or dry sherry
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• Salt and pepper
• 24 round dumpling wrappers (to make your own, see page 355)
• Basil Dipping Sauce (654) for serving

1. Put the tofu in a large bowl and mash with a fork to crumble it. Add the scallions, leeks, ginger, rice wine, sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, and egg and sprinkle with a large pinch of salt and lots of pepper. Mix gently but thoroughly.
2. Put about 2 teaspoons of the stuffing in the center of a wrapper, then moisten the edge of the wrapper with water and fold over to form a semicircle. Press the seam tightly to seal; it’s best if there is no air trapped between the stuffing and wrapper. Set on a lightly floured plate or wax paper. (You can make the dumplings to this point, cover tightly, and refrigerate for up to a day or freeze for a couple of weeks; thaw before steaming.)
3. Set up a steamer or put a heatproof plate on a rack above 1 to 2 inches of boiling water in a covered pot (see page 25). Lightly oil the steamer or plate to prevent sticking. Arrange the dumplings in the steamer so they don’t touch and steam, working in batches, for about 10 minutes per batch. Serve with dipping sauce on the side.

Steamed Bean Dumplings An interesting textural change from tofu: Use 1½ cups cooked adzuki, soy, or black soybeans instead of the tofu and egg. (If you want to make the filling spicy, increase the ginger to 1 to 2 tablespoons and add 1 teaspoon Chile Paste (page 664), or to taste.) In Step 1, put the beans in the bowl and roughly mash. Proceed with the recipe. V

Steamed Gyoza with Sea Greens and Edamame The Japanese-style dumplings, made with thinner wrappers: Try to find gyoza or wonton wrappers or roll your own as thin as possible. Soak about ½ cup dried wakame or dulse in hot water for 30 minutes. Drain well, and chop. Use 1½ cups edamame instead of the tofu and mash as described in Step 1; use the chopped wakame instead of the leeks. Serve with Ponzu (page 657), Dashi Dipping Sauce (page 657), or a little soy sauce mixed with a few drops of water.

Bean Thread Dumplings Pretty, with a chewy texture: Soak 1 bundle (2 ounces) bean threads in hot water for 5 minutes. Drain and chop into 1-inch pieces. Use the bean threads instead of the egg in the main recipe or any of the variations. V

Mushroom Dumplings Even better if you use a mix of reconstituted dried and fresh: Omit the egg and sugar. Pulse 8 ounces trimmed mushrooms with the tofu, ginger, rice wine, soy sauce, and sesame oil in the food processor until finely ground. Proceed with the recipe. V

Spicy Kimchi Dumplings This classic Korean combination is best panfried until slightly golden, or you can steam them: Omit the scallions and add ¼ cup kimchi and 1 teaspoon minced fresh chile (like jalapeño or Thai) or to taste.

Pea Dumplings Wonderful in the spring: Replace the tofu with ricotta (or not, if you want them vegan), and the leeks with 1 cup peas (thawed frozen are fine). Omit the scallions, ginger, rice wine, sugar, soy sauce, and sesame oil and instead add 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest, ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional), and ¼ cup fresh mint leaves, chopped.