Using brown rice instead of white is easy: Just precook — “parboil” — the same quantity of brown rice first, then substitute that for the raw white rice in any recipe. The techniques after that remain the same — for pilafs, paella, stuck-pot dishes, and, incredibly, even risottos. And the results are terrific. You get the nutty, rich, toasted, satisfying taste of brown rice; perhaps what’s most surprising is the texture. Pilafs are still fluffy; risottos are still creamy. In fact, this is one of the most important “discoveries” I made while first researching this book.
Start by bringing a large pot of salted water to a boil. Stir in the brown rice and adjust the heat so that the water bubbles along nicely. Don’t stir the rice again; just let it cook for 10 to 15 minutes. (Twelve minutes is about perfect, but it’s not that precise, so let’s not get nuts about this; you want it slightly tender, not crunchy but far from done.) Drain the rice, then proceed with whatever recipe you choose. You can parboil the brown rice up to an hour or so beforehand or even do it a few days ahead, let cool, then drain and refrigerate.