Biryani

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Time: About 30 minutes

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India’s greatest pilaf, almost always made with basmati rice and butter. Here, tofu is much more convenient than paneer (fresh Indian cheese), but you can use either, or no concentrated protein at all.

  1. If you’re using saffron, combine it in a pot with the stock. Put the butter or oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter melts or the oil is hot, turn the heat down to medium and add the turmeric if you’re using it, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and bay leaves. Cook, stirring frequently, until the spices are fragrant, about 2 minutes.
  2. Add the onion, garlic, and ginger, along with a large pinch of salt and a sprinkle of pepper, and cook, stirring, until the onion is soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the rice all at once and stir until the rice is glossy and completely coated with fat, 2 to 3 minutes. Lower the heat, then add the yogurt and stock and stir. Stir in the tofu. Adjust the heat so the mixture barely bubbles and cover the pan.
  3. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, then check the rice. When the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, it’s done. If not, cook for 2 to 3 minutes more and check again. Remove the bay leaves and cinnamon stick, if you used it; the cardamom pods are good to eat. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then garnish with cilantro and serve.