All of the recipes in this section can be cooked without being shaped to make a mixture that’s perfect anywhere you’d use ground meat. Prepare the burger mix, but don’t form into patties. Heat a little oil or butter in a large deep skillet. When it’s hot, add the burger mixture. Resist the urge to stir until it’s crisp and brown, then stir and break the pieces apart a bit, continuing to cook until it’s as done as you like. Use to fill tacos, burritos, omelets, savory pastries, and sandwiches. Or stir into Fast Tomato Sauce (page 312) for a topping for pizza or pasta.
You can also shape the mixture into loaves, cutlets, or “meat” balls. Think of cutlets as a slightly fancier alternative to a burger. “Meat” balls can be used in the same ways you’d use “real” meatballs—baked or fried, for dinner or for appetizers.
To Make Loaves
Double any of the burger recipes on pages 502–508 and heat the oven to 350°F. Pat the mixture into a greased standard loaf pan and cover with foil. Bake for 30 minutes or so, then uncover and bake until crisp and golden on top, another 20 to 30 minutes. Cool a bit, then slice and serve with ketchup or any of the accompaniments suggested in the recipe.
To Make Cutlets
Take any burger mixture and shape into small patties about ½ inch thick; chill for at least 1 hour. When you’re ready to cook, take three shallow, wide bowls: Beat a couple of eggs in one, put 1 cup flour in another; and put 1 cup bread crumbs (fresh, dried, or panko) in the third. Have another cup of crumbs handy, just in case you need more. Put at least ⅛ inch good-quality vegetable oil in a deep skillet over medium heat. Carefully dip the patties first in the flour, then in the eggs, and finally in the bread crumbs, coating both sides evenly. When the oil is hot, cook the patties, undisturbed, until deeply golden on the bottom, 5 to 7 minutes. Carefully flip and cook the other side until golden. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve immediately, with lemon wedges.
To Make “Meat” Balls
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Roll the mixture relatively small; the balls will cook up fast and crisp that way, without falling apart. Lightly wet your hands. Start with a heaping tablespoon or so and gently squeeze it in one hand, rolling lightly to smooth and even out the surface. Put the balls on the baking sheet as you finish them. They’ll take between 15 and 20 minutes to bake at 425°F, depending on the particular recipe. Turn them once or twice for even browning. To fry, film a nonstick or cast-iron skillet with oil or butter and turn the heat to medium. Add the balls to the pan, keeping a little space in between, and cook, undisturbed, until crisp and golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Roll them around a bit to cook the other sides until they’re browned all over.