Seitan

Makes: 4 to 6 servings (about 1½ pounds)

Time: 1½ to 2 hours, mostly unattended

M V

This dough comes together almost instantly, is astonishingly elastic, and is very easy — even fun — to work. It’s important to knead it thoroughly, either by hand or by machine, and to let the dough rest before forming and simmering the loaves. You can flavor seitan before adding the water by stirring into the flour up to ¼ cup toasted wheat germ, whole wheat flour, or chopped or pulverized nuts or dried sea greens like kombu, arame, or wakame, as well as any dried herbs or spices to taste.

• 1 cup vital wheat gluten flour
• ½ teaspoon salt or to taste
• 1 recipe Dark or Golden Simmering Liquid for Seitan (pages 509 to 510)

1. Put the vital wheat gluten flour in a large bowl, a food processor fitted with the short plastic blade, or the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a dough hook. Sprinkle with the salt.
2. Add ¾ cup water and mix until combined. If loose flour remains, add a couple of drops water, but be careful not to add too much. The dough should be one big, slightly rubbery mass. Continue kneading in the bowl by hand for 5 minutes or so, by mixer for a couple of minutes, or by food processor for just 30 seconds or so, until the dough is a rubbery, elastic mass. Cover the dough with a kitchen towel and let it rest for at least 20 but no more than 30 minutes. Meanwhile, put the simmering liquid in a large pot with a lid over medium heat and bring to a simmer.
3. Pull or cut the dough into 2 equal portions. Stretch, pull, and roll the dough into 2 logs. (I know they look small, but don’t worry; they’ll plump considerably.) Put them in the simmering liquid and bring the liquid to a boil. It’s okay if they aren’t submerged.
4. Lower the heat so the liquid bubbles gently and cover the pot. Cook, using tongs to turn the seitan once or twice, for about an hour. Test by cutting a slice off the end with a knife; if you want it a little less dense, cook another 15 to 30 minutes. Cool completely in the liquid before storing or using.

Seitan and Lentil Loaf Once cooled, slice this thin to eat it like pâté with mustard and crackers; chopped, it becomes a tasty addition to Fast Tomato Sauce (page 312): Decrease the vital wheat gluten flour to ¾ cup and add ⅓ cup dried lentils in Step 1. In Step 3, form it into a single oval loaf. Proceed as directed.

Seitan and Mushroom Loaf Use a spice grinder or mini food processor to pulverize about ¼ ounce dried shiitake or porcini mushrooms. (Don’t reconstitute them.) You should have about ⅓ cup powder; it’s okay if there are still some small chunks. Decrease the vital wheat gluten flour to ¾ cup. Add the mushrooms to the flour in Step 1. In Step 3, form the seitan into a single oval loaf. Proceed as directed.