Cheese Quiche

Makes: 4 to 8 servings

Time: About 1½ hours, somewhat unattended

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Use any good cheese here, or even use bits of several kinds you might have in the refrigerator. If you use a soft cheese like fresh goat, ricotta, or cottage, reduce the cream by ½ cup or so, depending on how wet the cheese is.

Herbs add more flavor, of course: Try ¼ cup chopped fresh basil, parsley, chives, chervil, cilantro, or dill; about 1 tablespoon chopped marjoram or oregano; or 1 teaspoon or so chopped tarragon, thyme, or rosemary.

• 1 recipe Savory Piecrust (page 710), fitted into a 9-inch deep-dish pie pan, chilled
• 6 eggs, at room temperature
• 2 cups grated Emmental, Gruyère, Cantal, cheddar, or other flavorful cheese
• 2 cups cream, half-and-half, or milk, heated just until warm
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon cayenne, or to taste

1. Prebake the crust (see “Pre-Baking a Crust,” page 708). Start the filling while the crust is in the oven. When the crust is golden brown, set the oven temperature at 325ºF and cool the crust slightly on a rack.
2. Beat together the eggs, cheese, cream, salt, and cayenne in a medium bowl until well blended.
3. Put the crust, still in the pan, on a baking sheet and pour in the filling. Bake until almost firm (it should jiggle just a little in the center) and lightly browned on top, 30 to 40 minutes. You may need to reduce the oven heat if the crust’s edges darken too quickly. Cool on a wire rack; serve warm or at room temperature.

Ricotta and Parmesan Quiche Rich and sharp: Substitute 1 cup each ricotta and grated Parmesan for the Emmental and decrease the cream to 1 cup.

Quiche Lorraine The deep flavor of caramelized onion and smokiness of tofu take the place of the traditional bacon: Caramelize 3 cups sliced onion (see page 222) and add ½ cup or so chopped smoked tofu in the last few minutes. Combine the onion mixture with the eggs and proceed with the recipe.