French Toast

Makes: 4 servings

Time: 20 minutes

F M

French toast can be made with fresh or stale bread (the dish, obviously, was created to use leftover bread), quick breads, and even tortillas. European-style loaves require a bit more soaking to soften the crust; hearty whole grain breads make more substantial slices. Many people prefer French toast made from soft, thick slices of brioche or challah. Whatever you use, just be sure the bread is good quality; packaged sandwich slices make insipid French toast.

You can easily vary this recipe: Use any nondairy milk, or enrich the soaking liquid by using half-and-half, cream, or coconut milk. Season it with ground cardamom, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, or almond extract instead of the cinnamon or vanilla extract. To make an eggier French toast, increase the eggs and decrease the milk by a couple of tablespoons for each extra egg.

• 2 eggs
• 1 cup milk
• Pinch salt
• 1 tablespoon sugar (optional)
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract or ground cinnamon (optional)
• Butter or good-quality vegetable oil, as needed
• 8 slices bread

1. Put a large griddle or skillet over medium-low heat while you prepare the egg batter. Heat the oven to 200°F if you won’t be serving the French toast immediately.
2. Beat the eggs lightly in a wide, shallow bowl and stir in the milk, salt, and the sugar and vanilla, if you’re using them.
3. Put about 1 teaspoon butter or oil on the griddle or in the skillet. When the butter is melted or the oil is hot, brush it over the surface. Dip each slice of bread into the batter, turn once or twice to coat both sides with batter, then put it on the griddle. Cook until nicely browned on each side, turning once after 3 to 5 minutes, adding more butter or oil as needed; you may find that you can raise the heat a bit. Serve or keep warm on an ovenproof plate in the oven for up to 30 minutes.

Crisp French Toast There are two ways to give French toast a bit of a crust: Stir ½ cup flour into the batter, or dip the bread in the batter, then dredge it in sweetened bread crumbs or crushed cornflakes. In either case, cook as directed.

Nut-Crusted French Toast Add another egg and decrease the milk to ¾ cup. Spread about 1 cup sliced almonds or any chopped nuts on a plate; after dipping the bread in the egg batter, put the slice on the nuts and press gently to make the nuts stick; flip it over to coat the other side. Proceed with the recipe, taking care not to burn the nuts.

Savory French Toast Opens up a whole new world of brunch (or dinner) possibilities: Omit the sugar and vanilla, and whisk ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese and lots of cracked black pepper into the batter. Proceed with the recipe.