Cheese is a good source of protein, as well as calcium and other nutrients that can’t be found in many other places for vegetarians. And from the perspectives of flavor and texture, there’s nothing else like it. Just don’t let cheese become a vegetarian crutch; think of it as a treat, not a major food group.
The variety of cheeses is staggering. They may be made from cow’s, sheep’s, or goat’s milk (or for that matter, yak’s, water buffalo’s, or camel’s), or a mixture; they may be fresh or aged from as little as 30 days to as long as several years. This is what makes shopping for cheese so much fun, especially in a good cheese shop.
For most of us, cooking with cheese is far more common than eating a cheese course, and the cheese itself is more common too. But the principles that determine which cheese works best in which dishes — strength of flavor, firmness, graininess, the ability to crumble or melt — also work for eating cheese plain.
Store cheese in the warmest part of the refrigerator — the door compartment is probably best — preferably in a resealable container. Specialty cheese paper also works, as does wax paper; and even though almost every retailer in the world uses it, plastic wrap is to be avoided as it doesn’t allow the cheese to breathe and can transfer its smell to the cheese.
A bit of white or green mold doesn’t mean cheese has gone bad; you can just trim it off. In general, if a cheese smells as it is supposed to, it’s fine. And take a little nibble; if it tastes fine, it is fine. But if a bloomy rinded cheese (like brie or Camembert) develops a pinkish red mold, throw it out. Beyond those caveats, follow your nose and trust your instincts on whether a cheese is ready for the trash bin.
Most cheese is best eaten at room temperature, which can take several hours for a piece of cheese taken right from the fridge; keep it covered with paper or a clean cloth or place it in a cheese dome until ready to serve.
What follows is a rather idiosyncratic overview of the types of cheeses used in cooking, though it is hardly comprehensive. It’s meant to illustrate the ways in which cheese can be incorporated into cooking and those I use most often. Feel free to branch out and experiment with others.
These are kitchen workhorses that can be used in recipes in a multitude of ways, from tangy dips to rich pasta dishes, from pancakes to desserts.
Grating Cheeses Parmesan is king (see “Parmesan, the Ultimate All-Purpose Cheese,” page 556) but there’s also pecorino Romano, manchego, Grana Padano (the next closest thing to real Parmesan, and less expensive), dry Jack, and more. They can be sharp and strong, like Romano (which is also the saltiest), or mild enough to snack on, like manchego. Use them grated in pasta sauces, to garnish and enrich all sorts of dishes, and in combination with other dairy for delicious dips. You can hardly go wrong.
Ricotta In between the best, which is made yourself (page 569), and the stuff sold in tubs, there are some decent options to be found. Wonderful spread on toast with a drizzle of olive oil or jam, or stirred into a sauce or grain dish to add richness, or used as a stuffing for pasta. A nice all-purpose cheese to have around, though it doesn’t keep for more than a week, usually.
Blue Cheeses Gorgonzola, Roquefort, Cabrales, other European blues, and American blue cheese like Maytag. Blue-veined cheeses, which intentionally cultivate flavorful but harmless molds, may be an acquired taste, but devotees (I’m one) crave them. Try sprinkling some strong blue cheese on plain cooked vegetables along with bread crumbs and running it under the broiler. Wonderful in sauces, dressings, and dips.
Feta Though many feta cheeses are now packed in airtight plastic, I prefer to buy those stored in brine. The flavor is fresh and milky, with salty rather than sharp notes, and the texture is dry and crumbly. If the feta you buy is too salty for you, rinse the cheese and pat it dry before using; next time, try a different variety. Use it crumbled into salads or grain dishes or mashed with lemon juice and fresh herbs and spread on crostini or crackers.
Fresh Soft Goat Cheese Sometimes called chèvre (which is simply French for “goat”), this distinctive cheese is great used as part of creamy fillings and spreads or dolloped on top of a bowl of soup to be swirled in for a bit of tangy richness.
Cream Cheese Supermarket varieties only hint at the potential of cream cheese, which is tangy, rich, and creamy. To make your own, see page 000.
The best melting cheeses melt smoothly; it’s best to grate or slice them thinly for quick, even melting. Use these types of cheeses to top dishes for a creamy finish, make into grilled cheese, or for quesadillas or other cheesy Mexican dishes like enchiladas.
Swiss-Style Cheeses — Gruyère, Fontina, Emmental (“Swiss”), Raclette, Appenzeller, Comté Though each of these is unique, I’m grouping them together here because they share a velvety texture when melted and a complex, nutty taste that makes them good choices for combining with other ingredients.
Monterey Jack, Queso Asadero, AND Queso Oaxaca Mild, with good body when melted, these rindless cheeses are perfect for Mexican food as a creamy counterpoint to assertive seasoning.
Cheddar I prefer sharp cheddar cheeses with at least a little bit of age on them, because they are more flavorful and melt better. Cheddars are also good stand-alone cheeses for snacking, especially when combined with apples, dried fruit, nuts, and whole grain toast.
Mozzarella Freshly made mozzarella (which often comes packed in water) is quite different from the drier, slightly aged brick kind. Fresh mozzarella tastes like milk, only with a little tang, and should never be rubbery or stringy. It’s a great cheese to melt on pizza or pasta, obviously, or to eat raw in salads or sandwiches.
These cheeses have a high melting point and will soften rather melt when heated. They can be thrown on the grill or fried or seared in a skillet, developing a delicious brown crust; with some cheeses, the interior will get creamy, with others, it will retain its structure while heating through.
Halloumi A semi-hard brined cheese usually made from a combination of goat and sheep’s milk. It originated in Cyprus but is now made around the world and is particularly popular in Greece, Turkey, and the Middle East. It has a distinctive salty flavor.
Paneer A mild fresh cheese made from water buffalo or cow’s milk that is a staple in the cooking of India, Pakistan, Nepal, and Bangladesh in dishes like saag paneer. Look for it in Indian food stores, or you can make your own; it’s easy to do (see page 000).
Queso de Freír (or Queso para Freír) A firm, mild cow’s milk cheese with a salty taste. It is popular throughout Central America and the Caribbean, usually prepared by slicing, then frying or pan-searing. Look for it in the supermarket where other Hispanic dairy products are sold; it may simply be labeled “Grilling Cheese.”
Kasseri, Kefalotyri, and Graviera These Greek cheeses, made from a combination of sheep, cow, and/or goat’s milk, are great choices for pan-searing.
Bread Cheese This cheese finds its origins in Finland, where it is called juustoleipa or leipajuusto and is made from cow, goat, or reindeer milk. It’s now produced in the U.S. (in Wisconsin) from cow’s milk and it’s sold already browned, with lovely golden spots all over it. It takes well to grilling, pan-searing, baking, or frying.