Vinegar, with its savory tartness, plays an essential supporting role in dozens of recipes in this chapter. Here you’ll find two recipes, Balsamic Syrup (page 633) and Worcestershire Sauce, Hold the Anchovies (page 633), in which vinegar is the main player. (And of course there’s Vinaigrette, page 628.)
I urge you to keep at least a couple of vinegars on hand; they are valuable additions — beyond their use in dressings — to many kinds of cooked dishes, as well as in pickling (see the recipes on pages 89 to 94) and marinades.
I think sherry vinegar is the best value in vinegar these days; that’s why you’ll find it at the top of the list. The rest are listed in order of a combination of personal preference and availability. Near the bottom are vinegars that are interesting and good but have limited uses; they may be hard to find but are still of interest and worth picking up if you come across them or order them online.
Sherry vinegar The best and most flavorful vinegar for the money (the bottle must say Vinagre de Jerez for it to be genuine). Very acidic (8 percent), so start by using less than of other vinegars.
Rice vinegar A must-have in Asian cooking but also welcome in vinaigrettes. Check the ingredients — you don’t want “seasoned” rice vinegar. Its acidity is among the lowest of the vinegars, 4.5 percent.
Balsamic vinegar Most is distilled vinegar flavored with caramel syrup, but even that may have a pleasant taste, and is fine in salads and perfect for Balsamic Syrup (page 633). Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena — real balsamic vinegar — is expensive, and arguably worth it. Look for one made from wine vinegar and aged at least a little while — 10 years is not uncommon — in wood barrels.
Chinese black vinegar Made from glutinous rice, with a delicious, almost haunting flavor. Look for one with a short list of ingredients and the word Chinkiang (or something similar) on the label; that’s the province in which it’s traditionally made. Add it to fried rice (page 380) or use it on its own as a dipping sauce or to make Worcestershire Sauce, Hold the Anchovies (page 633).
Cider vinegar Real cider vinegar can have a distinctively fruity flavor, and good ones are now easier to find than good wine vinegars. Look for a good domestic variety.
Plum/umeboshi vinegar The rather salty, slightly fruity flavor of this Japanese vinegar can be addictive. It’s made from umeboshi, dried and pickled stone fruit similar to plums. Use as a dipping sauce for cold soba noodles (page 338).
Red wine vinegar Unless you’re going to spend the money ($8 to $30) for a good one, sherry vinegar is a better bet.
White wine vinegar/Champagne vinegar Like white wine, white wine vinegar can be dull or delightful. Real Champagne vinegar is among the best, but in general, these are disappointing — buy neither the cheapest nor most expensive.
Malt vinegar Made from malted grain, this tastes malty, with a slight lemon aroma and flavor. Get real brewed malt vinegar, not a “nonbrewed condiment,” which is nothing more than water, acetic acid, and coloring. Delicious splashed onto fried or roasted foods.
Cane vinegar Ranges in color from golden to deep brown. An all-purpose vinegar with a slightly syrupy taste.
Coconut vinegar Has a cloudy white color with a tangy bite; works best in Southeast Asian–style dishes.