Parsley “Pesto”

Makes: About 1 cup

Time: 10 minutes

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Simpler, purer, less complex than traditional pesto, parsley purée is — to me at least — even more useful. For one thing, you can find decent parsley year-round. For another, it’s a brighter, fresher purée and therefore less specific in its uses. And, as you can see from the variations, different herbs work equally well.

• 2 cups lightly packed fresh parsley leaves (thin stems are okay)
• Salt
• ½ clove garlic, or more to taste
• ½ cup extra virgin olive oil, or more as needed
• 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar or fresh lemon juice

1. Put the parsley with a pinch salt, the garlic, and about half the oil in a food processor or blender. Process, stopping to scrape down the side of the container if necessary, and adding the rest of the oil gradually.
2. Add the vinegar, then a little more oil or some water if you prefer a thinner mixture. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve or cover and refrigerate for up to a couple of days.

Cilantro Purée, Dill Purée, Basil Purée, or Mint Purée These are good; they’re especially great with grilled vegetables: Substitute any of these herbs (leaves only or very thin stems too) for the parsley.

Chimichurri Very strong: Use 3 or more cloves garlic, 2 tablespoons vinegar or lemon juice, and at least 1 teaspoon red chile flakes. Do not refrigerate.

Green Olive Mojo Intense: Reduce the olive oil to ¼ cup; use ¼ cup fresh lime juice, or to taste, in place of the vinegar. After puréeing, use the food processor to pulse in 1 cup pitted green olives; or chop the olives by hand and add them. In any case, do not purée them.