Salsa Roja

Makes: About 2 cups

Time: 45 to 50 minutes

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This classic cooked tomato and chile sauce can be served as is or puréed and used for enchiladas or tacos. The guajillo chiles lend a complex, smoky flavor, as well as moderate heat. If you want a milder salsa, substitute ancho or another mild chile.

Save the chile soaking water to thin the salsa if it gets too thick, or use it in Tortilla Soup (page 111). But use it judiciously; it can become quite fiery.

• 2 large guajillo or other medium-hot dried chiles, toasted, soaked, and cleaned (see page 226)
• ¼ cup good-quality vegetable oil
• 2 large onions, chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped, with their liquid (about 3 cups; canned are fine)
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• Salt and pepper
• ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1. Mince the chiles. Put the oil in a medium saucepan or deep skillet with a lid over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the chiles, onions, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, sugar, some salt, and plenty of pepper.
2. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently and cook, stirring occasionally, until it thickens and comes together, about 20 minutes.
3. Stir in the cilantro and lime juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve hot or at room temperature, or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Red Enchilada Sauce Essential on enchiladas (page 561): Use an immersion blender to purée the sauce in the pan. Or cool the mixture slightly, pour it into a blender or food processor, and purée carefully, scraping down the sides as necessary.

Salsa Borracha Translates as “drunken salsa” because it’s cooked with beer and finished with tequila: In Step 1, add a 12-ounce bottle or can of beer with the tomatoes. Once it thickens (it might take a little longer), use an immersion blender to purée the sauce in the pan. Or cool the mixture slightly, pour it into a blender or food processor, and purée carefully, scraping down the side as necessary. Finish with 2 tablespoons (about a shot) of tequila if you like.

Charred Salsa Roja If you have the grill going already, why not? Cut the tomatoes and onions into thick slices and grill on both sides until charred, about 10 minutes total. Proceed with the recipe. Add 2 tablespoons or so chopped fresh mint, if you like, in Step 3 along with the cilantro.

Smoky and Hot Salsa Roja Toast, soak, and clean a dried chipotle chile along with the others. Or add a canned chipotle chile, chopped, with adobo to taste along with the tomatoes.

Salsa Sofrito Substitute roasted red or yellow bell peppers (see page 228) for the guajillos; replace the cilantro with a tablespoon or so chopped fresh oregano; and use red wine vinegar instead of the lime juice.