Chile-Garlic Paste

Makes: About 2 cups

Time: 10 minutes

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Globally, chile-garlic paste is almost ubiquitous; certainly nothing is more versatile. Customize the heat level by using milder chiles (like New Mexico) or hotter ones (Thai or habanero). Remove the seeds and stems from the chiles before crushing them unless you like things really hot.

• 1 cup dried red chiles (like red Thai, chile de árbol, pequín, or red New Mexico)
• ¼ cup chopped garlic
• ¼ cup white wine vinegar or distilled vinegar
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Put the chiles, garlic, vinegar, sugar, and salt in a blender or food processor with ¼ cup hot water and purée to a smooth paste. Add additional hot water by the tablespoon if necessary to achieve the consistency you want. Serve or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 months.

Super-Spicy Chile-Garlic Paste Based on fresh chiles instead of dried, and blistering hot — really: Put 3 to 5 habaneros and 5 cloves garlic in a small skillet over medium heat. Cook, shaking the skillet occasionally, until the garlic and chiles are brown (or partially wrap the garlic and chiles in foil and roast in a 400°F oven for about 30 minutes). Stem and seed the chiles (wear gloves, if you have them). Put the chiles, garlic, ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, and ¼ cup fresh lime juice in a food processor or blender and purée until pasty.