Raw Onion Chutney

Makes: About ¾ cup

Time: About 1 hour, largely unattended

M V

I love chutneys bursting with chiles and ginger and herbs, but when you’re pairing a chutney with richly flavored legumes like the dals on pages 450 to 453, sometimes a simpler, more directly assaultive accompaniment is in order. This onion-based chutney — a standard in India — certainly fits that bill: It’s fresh, bright, pungent, and mind-bogglingly easy. White onions, shallots, or scallions work equally well here.

• 2 small-to-medium or 1 large red or sweet (Vidalia, Bermuda, etc.) onion, quartered and thinly sliced or chopped
• 1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
• ½ teaspoon coarsely cracked black peppercorns
• ¼ cup red wine vinegar
• 1 teaspoon or more paprika
• Pinch cayenne, or to taste (optional)
• Pinch chaat masala, or to taste (optional)

1. Thoroughly combine the onion with the salt, peppercorns, vinegar, and paprika in a small bowl; let sit for an hour.
2. Stir in the cayenne and/or chaat masala if using them. Serve, or cover and refrigerate for up to a month. Bring to room temperature to serve.

Hot Pepper Chutney Replace the onion with 4 to 5 hot fresh red chiles. Substitute 2 cloves garlic for the black peppercorns. Pulse in a food processor until coarsely chopped (do not purée). This will keep in the refrigerator, covered, for at least 2 weeks.