Mayonnaise

Makes: 1 cup

Time: 10 minutes

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Homemade mayos usually fail because you add the oil to the egg too fast. Temperature fluctuations can cause some instability, so try to make sure your eggs aren’t too cold and your oil is at room temperature.

To help you add the oil in a slow, steady stream, put it in a squeeze bottle or a liquid measuring cup with a spout. (Blender or food processor feed tubes with a tiny drizzle hole in them solve this problem; you can jerry-rig one of those with a drill and a fine bit.)

• 1 egg yolk
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, sherry vinegar, or white wine vinegar
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 1 cup good-quality vegetable oil or extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper

1. To make by hand Put the yolk, lemon juice or vinegar, and mustard in a medium bowl. Beat together with a wire whisk. Begin to add the oil as you beat, a little at a time, adding more as each bit is incorporated. You’ll notice when a thick emulsion forms, and then you can add the oil a little faster. Depending on how fast you beat, the whole process will take about 5 minutes.
   To make by machine Put the yolk, lemon juice or vinegar, and mustard in a blender or food processor and turn the machine on. While it’s running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. When an emulsion forms, you can add it a little faster, until all the oil is added and the mixture is smooth.
2. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Serve or cover and refrigerate for up to a week.

Garlic Mayonnaise (Aïoli) Strong and addictive: Replace at least half the oil with olive oil. Peel 3 to 8 cloves garlic, to taste. Mince and stir in along with the salt and pepper.

Chile Mayonnaise Use mild chiles like ancho, or hot like Thai or dried chipotle: Soak 1 or 2 dried chiles in warm water until soft. Drain and pat dry. Or use 1 canned chipotle and a little of its adobo sauce. Mince the chiles and stir in along with the salt and pepper.

Roasted Pepper Mayonnaise Pretty and more complex: Roast and clean 1 medium red, yellow, or orange bell pepper (see page 228). Mince and stir in along with the salt and pepper.

Cold Mustard Sauce Delicious sandwich spread: Omit the mustard in Step 1. Add 1 heaping tablespoon Dijon or whole grain mustard along with the salt and pepper. Thin with a tablespoon or 2 of cream — fresh, fraîche, or sour — to the desired consistency.

Green Sauce, French Style Easier by machine: After the emulsion is made, add 1 sprig fresh tarragon, about 10 sprigs watercress (thick stems removed), 10 chives, and the leaves from 5 sprigs parsley to the blender or processor along with the salt and pepper. Process until not quite puréed but definitely green.

Rémoulade Sauce Omit the mustard in Step 1, then stir these additions into the finished mayonnaise: ¼ cup each chopped fresh parsley and chopped scallions, 3 tablespoons Dijon or coarse-grain mustard, 1 tablespoon ketchup, and grated horseradish and cayenne to taste.