Lemon-Lime Gelée

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Time: 25 minutes, plus time to chill

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All sorts of flavors are possible here, from sweet-tart lemon-lime to coffee to coconut, and they’re all perfect on a summer day or when you want something light and refreshing. Freshly squeezed juice is the best, of course; otherwise, use nectar if it’s available. Try unexpected juices like cherry, peach, nectarine, plum, apricot, mango, or passion fruit. To adjust the sweetness of the gelée, replace some of the simple syrup with water, juice, fruit purée, or other liquid.

I tend to like my gels set on the loose side, more like a flan. It still holds its shape on the spoon, but it’s delicate and melts immediately in your mouth. If that sounds appealing, use 3 tablespoons agar flakes. For a jiggle akin to Jell-O, use 4 tablespoons. Then you can make cubes or cookie-cutter shapes — great for kids.

• 3–4 tablespoons agar flakes
• 1 tablespoon mixed grated lemon and lime zest
• ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
• ¼ cup fresh lime juice
• 1½ cups Simple Syrup (page 685)

1. Put 2 cups water in a small saucepan and add the agar flakes; let it sit for about 10 minutes to soften, then bring the water to a boil. Put the zests, juices, and simple syrup in a medium heatproof bowl, then stir in the agar water.
2. Strain the liquid into individual ramekins, small bowls, cups, or a single larger dish (keep in mind you probably want the gelée to be at least 1 inch thick). Let the gelée set at room temperature, then refrigerate until chilled and firm, another hour or so.

Raspberry (or Any Berry) Gelée Use 1 cup water to dissolve the agar. Substitute 1½ cups raspberry or any berry purée, strained to remove the seeds, for the citrus zests and juices.

Pomegranate Gelée Drop fresh pomegranate seeds into the cooling gelée if you like: Use 2½ cups pomegranate juice to dissolve the agar. Omit the citrus zests and juices.

Honey Gelée Good-quality honey is essential here; don’t shy away from some of the bolder-flavored varieties available: Omit the citrus zests and juices. Substitute 1½ cups honey for the simple syrup. In Step 1, when the agar water has boiled, immediately stir in the honey and keep stirring until it’s dissolved.

Coffee Gelée Use 1 cup water to dissolve the agar. Substitute 1½ cups freshly brewed coffee or espresso for the citrus zests and juices.

Champagne Gelée with Berries Pretty with the berries suspended in it; serve it in clear glass: Substitute 3 cups chilled Champagne or sparkling wine for the citrus zests and juices and the water. In Step 1, mix the agar with the simple syrup in a saucepan and bring it to a boil. Cool it only slightly, about 5 minutes, then carefully stir in the Champagne. Transfer to the serving dish(es) and put in the fridge for about 5 minutes so, just until it’s starting to set; drop in the berries (they should suspend in the semi-set gelée) and return to the fridge to fully chill.