These small ‘gifts from the chef’ are contentious little dishes, but the evolution of fine dining has brought them to our tables. If delivered swiftly and without pomp, they are simply an additional treat and need no more debate. Their purpose can be confused: some see them as a palate cleanser, preparing the diner’s system for what lies ahead; some simply as a light opening course to set the tone. For me, they are an important part of the meal. It is the opening set from the kitchen and, whilst an amuse-bouche should be petite, it should also make a big impact. Anyone who has chosen to walk through the front door of The Square has, in doing so, made a clear statement about the enthusiasm with which they approach their eating, and in my book this opener should deliver flavour through refined and sensuous means.
Over the years we have served a multitude of different dishes, but the format that has served us best, and in my opinion ticks all the boxes, is the one demonstrated by the four seasonal variations in this chapter. A delicate mousse is topped with a jelly (or purée) and then a foam. The flavours are always harmonious and classical, but delivering them in this way gives rise to a sensuous launch into the world of subtle, refined flavours and textures. These little assemblies are served with a crisp garnish on the side to provide an appropriately flavoured, but texturally contrasting backdrop.
17th September 1989. The last order in the kitchen on the last day of my job as Sunday chef at The Left Bank – owned by the legendary Fernando Peire. The restaurant was managed – and this order written – by my oldest pal and partner-in-most-crimes, Johnny.
CEP BAVAROIS, ROAST CHICKEN JELLY, THYME FOAM AND ONION TART
SERVES 20
Roast chicken with ceps, thyme and onions is about as harmonious a gathering of flavours as possible. The four go so well together. It is a faultless, complete and unquestionable combination and here, presented in The Square’s standard amuse-bouche format of bavarois, jelly, foam and crisp garnish, it provides a small, rich and sensuous kick-off to an autumn meal.
OVERVIEW
The ceps are lightly sweated, covered and cooked with cream, then blended to a smooth purée. This is set with gelatine, aerated and enriched with whipped cream, and set in shot glasses. The bavarois is topped with a naturally set roast chicken consommé and finished with a fragrant thyme foam, made by infusing cream with onions and thyme and dispensing it through a foam gun. The glass is served with a slice of a crisp, puff-pastry-based onion tart.
FOCUS ON
Use fresh ceps. Frozen or dried are simply not the same and bring a mustiness to the dish that is vastly inferior to the flavour of a fresh cep.
Cold, set consommé can have a rather muted flavour, but accurate seasoning will resolve this. Taste the stock carefully before it sets, remembering that it will be served cold and can therefore take full seasoning.
Try to source woody rather than soft thyme, as it has the most intense aroma.
Generous quantities infused briefly give better results than stewing smaller quantities for longer.
Go to the lengths of turning and baking the tart on the second side. This will ensure you achieve a slim, crisp finish.
KEY COMPONENTS
Roast chicken jelly
Cep bavarois
Thyme foam
Onion tart
TIMING
Most of this dish can be started a day in advance, and certainly the jelly must be. Make the roast chicken stock the day before and clarify it then too, if desired. The cep bavarois, thyme foam base and caramelised onions for the tart can all be done the day before. All that is then left on the day, a couple of hours before serving, is to set the mousse and jelly in the glass, warm up the foam and bake the onion tart.
ROAST CHICKEN JELLY
10 chicken drumsticks
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
15g unsalted butter
150g shallots, finely sliced
200g small button mushrooms, quartered
100ml Madeira
2 garlic cloves, smashed
1 bay leaf
2 litres Chicken Stock
1 chicken breast
200g egg whites
CEP BAVAROIS
300g firm, fresh ceps
½ small white onion, finely sliced
300ml whipping cream
2 gelatine leaves
400ml double cream
THYME FOAM
50g unsalted butter
1 white onion, finely sliced
1 garlic clove, smashed
1 bay leaf
200ml double cream
350ml whipping cream
2 tablespoons thyme leaves
ONION TART
30g unsalted butter
8 onions, finely sliced
150g Puff Pastry
METHOD
ROAST CHICKEN JELLY
Chop the drumsticks in half. Place a large, shallow, heavy-based pan over a high heat and leave for 1 minute, then add the grapeseed oil. Season the drumsticks and arrange them in the pan in an even layer. Leave to colour for 1–2 minutes, until the underside has achieved a rich golden shade. Add the butter, let it melt and start to foam, then turn the drumsticks over and colour the second side. Stir and continue to cook for 2–3 minutes, until the drumsticks are evenly coloured. Add half the shallots and half the mushrooms, season with a small pinch of salt, stir thoroughly and transfer to an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Remove from the oven, drain through a colander, reserve the fat (you will need some for cooking the ceps) and transfer the solids to a pan. Add the Madeira, bring to the boil and cook until it has almost completely evaporated. Add the garlic, bay leaf and chicken stock, bring to the boil, skim off any fat and scum that accumulate on the surface and cook at a base simmer for 1 hour, skimming as and when required. Turn off the heat, leave to stand for 20 minutes, then pass through a colander. Discard the solids and pass the stock through a fine conical sieve. Set aside to cool, skim off any fat, then taste the stock and season it fully.
Place the chicken breast and the remaining mushrooms and shallots in a food processor and blend for 30 seconds. Add a generous pinch of salt, a few twists of pepper and blend for a further 15 seconds. Place the egg whites in a large bowl, season with a pinch of salt and whisk them vigorously for 30 seconds. Add the chicken mix to the egg whites and fold together until thoroughly mixed. Place the roast chicken stock in a large pan that it fills by about two-thirds. Add the egg white mix, stir thoroughly and set it over a medium heat. Heat, stirring occasionally, until the egg white starts to cook and a crust forms on the surface. Turn the heat down, cut out a bit of crust where the stock starts to boil through, and continue to clear this hole with a ladle so the stock can percolate up through the hole and filter back through the crust. Cook at a bare simmer for 20 minutes, then turn off the heat.
Set up a sieve with a double layer of muslin, gently ladle the consommé out of the hole and pass it through the muslin. Be careful not to disturb the crust, and tilt the pan so you can access as much consommé as possible. Discard the crust, taste the consommé and season it one last time. Set aside to cool, then cover and chill.
CEP BAVAROIS
Trim off any soiled base from the stalk of the ceps. Peel the stems and plunge the mushrooms into a sink of cold water. Agitate gently for 30 seconds, then lift them out, dry in a salad spinner and slice finely. Place a large, heavy-based pan over a medium heat, add 2 tablespoons of the roasting fat from the chicken wings, plus the onion and a pinch of salt, and cook for about 5 minutes, until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the ceps and a further pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Add the whipping cream, bring to the boil, cover and transfer to an oven preheated to 120°C/Gas Mark ½. Cook for 15 minutes, then remove from the oven, transfer the mixture to a blender and blend to a smooth purée. Pass through a fine conical sieve into a bowl.
Cover the gelatine with cold water and leave for about 5 minutes, until softened. Lift it out, squeeze out the excess moisture, then transfer it to the warm cep purée and whisk thoroughly until completely dissolved.
Once the cep purée has cooled, pour the double cream into a large bowl set over iced water. Whisk until it forms soft peaks, then pour it into the cep purée and fold together until homogeneous. Taste the bavarois and season further if required. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a 1cm nozzle and chill.
THYME FOAM
Place a heavy-based casserole over a medium heat, add the butter, swirl the pan to melt it, then add the onion and a generous pinch of salt. Cover and sweat for 5 minutes or until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the garlic, bay leaf and double and whipping cream and bring to the boil. Cover and transfer to an oven preheated to 120°C/Gas Mark ½. Cook for 10 minutes, then place on the hob again over a gentle heat. Smash the thyme with the back of a heavy-bladed knife, add it to the pan and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Turn off the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes.
Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend to a smooth purée. Taste and season – remembering that it will get aerated and can therefore take generous seasoning at this point. Transfer to a 500ml foam gun and apply the lid. Set aside at room temperature.
ONION TART
Place a shallow heavy-based pan over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add the butter, swirl the pan to melt it, then add the onions and cook for 5 minutes, until they start to soften. Cover and cook for 5 minutes longer, stirring from time to time. Remove the lid, add a generous pinch of salt and continue to cook until the onions are a softened, glossy, golden mass. This will take up to 30 minutes, depending on the heat, the thickness of the base of the pan and its surface area, but ensure that the onions are thoroughly soft, sweet and caramelised. Transfer to a colander and set aside to cool.
Roll the puff pastry out to a 40cm x 12cm rectangle, about 2mm thick. Place it on a baking sheet and leave in the fridge for 15 minutes to chill. Remove from the fridge and spread the onions evenly over the surface, leaving a 1cm border along each side. Season with pepper and set aside in the fridge.
An hour before serving, place the tart in an oven preheated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove from the oven, place a sheet of baking parchment over the tart, invert a second baking sheet on top of the parchment and very carefully flip the whole assembly over. Remove the original baking sheet to expose the underside of the puff pastry and return the tart to the oven for 10 minutes or until the underside is golden brown and crisp. Repeat the flipping process and bake for a final 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and set the tart aside on a cooling rack.
TO ASSEMBLE THE GLASSES
Heat 400ml of the chicken consommé up just enough to melt it. Transfer it to a bowl set over ice and, stirring constantly, cool it just to the point where it starts to set again. Lift the bowl out of the ice, transfer the consommé to a measuring jug and set aside at room temperature.
Lay out 20 shot glasses. Pipe a 1.5cm depth of cep bavarois into them, gently tapping each glass to help level the mix. Add a similar depth of chicken consommé to each glass and return the glasses to the fridge for 1 hour.
TO SERVE
Charge the foam gun with one cartridge and place it in a bowl of hot water to warm through. Remove the glasses from the fridge and leave at room temperature for 5 minutes before serving. Trim the edges off the onion tart and cut it into 20 slices. Squirt enough warm foam into each glass to all but fill it, sit a slice of tart on top and serve immediately.
Cep Bavarois, Roast Chicken Jelly, Thyme foam and Onion Tart
FOIE GRAS BAVAROIS, RAISIN PURÉE, FRUIT BREAD CROÛTONS AND PARMESAN FOAM
SERVES 20
Until I tried this combination of flavours, I did not think it could possibly work. Yes, foie gras and raisins work, and yes, cheese and raisins work – but foie gras and cheese? Surely not. In small amuse-bouche portions, however, this is not only the most luxurious of kick-offs but utterly delicious too.
It is impossible to make small quantities of this, so be prepared to have some surplus.
OVERVIEW
A luxurious foie gras bavarois is made by incorporating lightly whipped cream into a delicate foie gras purée. This is set in a glass, topped with raisin purée and finished with a Parmesan foam. The bavarois is served with thin, crisp walnut and raisin croûtons.
FOCUS ON
Making the bavarois requires care and attention. It is not complicated, but there is scope for disaster. Pay attention to the stated temperatures.
The raisin purée must be smooth. A significant part of the enjoyment of this amuse-bouche lies in its sensuous mouth feel.
KEY COMPONENTS
Foie gras bavarois
Raisin purée
Parmesan foam
Walnut and raisin bread
TIMING
Soak the raisins the day before. Make the bread the day before – or buy a walnut and raisin baguette or other walnut and raisin loaf; it will be used to make thin toasted croûtons, so a good bought loaf is absolutely fine. The bavarois is best made on the day, as is the Parmesan foam, but you could do it in the morning, for the evening.
RAISIN PURÉE
200g golden raisins
150ml apple juice
80g caster sugar
FOIE GRAS BAVAROIS
100g foie gras
20ml Armagnac
20ml Pineau des Charentes
100ml milk
½ gelatine leaf
400ml double cream
PARMESAN FOAM
30g unsalted butter
30g shallots, finely sliced
100g cauliflower, finely sliced
30g leeks, finely sliced
100g Parmesan cheese, finely grated, with any rind reserved
225ml whipping cream
400ml milk
OTHER INGREDIENTS
1 loaf of Walnut and Raisin Bread (see Walnut and Raisin Bread)
METHOD
RAISIN PURÉE
Soak the raisins overnight in the apple juice. The following day, warm them through, then place in a blender with the juice and purée until smooth.
Put the sugar in a small, heavy-based pan and leave over a low to medium heat until it melts, stirring gently if it starts to stick in places. Raise the heat and cook without stirring until it becomes a dark golden caramel. Remove from the heat and tip the raisin purée on to the caramel, then transfer to the blender and blend to a completely smooth purée. If your blender can’t achieve this, pass the purée through a fine sieve with the help of a ladle or wooden spoon; this takes a lot of elbow grease, but will make a huge difference to the consistency of the end product. Set aside at room temperature.
FOIE GRAS BAVAROIS
Cut the foie gras into rough 1cm dice, place on a plate and drizzle with the Armagnac and Pineau des Charentes. Season with salt and pepper and leave, covered, at room temperature for 1 hour. Now transfer it to a small pan, cover with the milk and gently heat to 75°C. Leave for 5 minutes to poach the foie gras lightly. Some fat will render out of the foie gras.
Cover the gelatine with cold water and leave to soak for about 5 minutes, until soft and pliable. Carefully drain the foie gras through a colander and tip the drained fat and milk into a measuring jug or small pan so you can spoon off the golden fat. Put this fat and the poached foie gras into a blender, along with 50ml of the reserved milk. It is important that all these components are warm. Drain the gelatine, gently squeezing out excess moisture, and add that too, then purée until smooth. Now transfer to a bowl, set it over a bowl of iced water and whisk lightly with a balloon whisk until cold. Remove from the ice.
Whisk the double cream over ice until peaks just start to form, then carefully fold this into the foie gras purée until the mixture is homogeneous. Place it in a piping bag and pipe into 8 glasses, about 100ml in capacity, filling them a third full. Set aside in the fridge to set.
PARMESAN FOAM
Melt the butter in a medium-sized pan and add the shallots, cauliflower, leek, the Parmesan rind, if you have it, and a pinch of salt. Sweat until the vegetables have softened, then add the whipping cream and milk. Bring to the boil and cook at a bare simmer for 20 minutes to infuse. Pass through a fine sieve, discard half the solids, then place the hot infused cream and milk mix and the rest of the solids in a blender. Add the grated Parmesan and blend to a smooth, rich purée. Pass through a fine sieve and then transfer to a 500ml foam gun. Either chill, if not required immediately, or charge with 2 gas cartridges and set in a pan of warm water.
CROÛTONS
Finely slice the walnut and raisin loaf at an angle to make long, thin croûtons, allowing 2 per portion. They need to fit into a small glass, so if the loaf is too big, trim as required. Place under a preheated grill and toast lightly.
TO SERVE
Remove the glasses from the fridge 5 minutes before serving. If you made the Parmesan cream in advance, set the foam gun in a pan of hot water to heat through. Carefully add a teaspoon of raisin purée to each glass; this purée is thick, so a squeezy bottle would work a treat here, but if you don’t have one and the purée is too thick to spoon, let it down with a bit more apple juice.
Carefully squirt enough Parmesan foam into each glass to fill it three-quarters full. Finally, stick one of the croûtons into the glass and sit the other alongside.
FENNEL BAVAROIS, RED MULLET JELLY, SARDINE FOAM AND ANCHOVY STRAWS
SERVES 20
This is just a wonderful collection of Mediterranean ingredients that work incredibly well together. They are often savoured in a soupe de poissons but here, with concentrated flavours and soft, sensuous textures, they come together to produce a sunshine-laced summertime amuse-bouche.
OVERVIEW
A light fennel mousse is set in a glass and topped with a jelly made from a fish-soup-style stock based on red mullet. This is topped with a sardine foam produced by incorporating sardine paste into reduced cream. The amuse-bouche is garnished with a warm, crisp anchovy straw, made by interlacing egg-washed sheets of puff pastry with anchovies.
FOCUS ON
The key to the success of this assembly is to ensure that each component sings loud and clear without any single one dominating. Pay attention to the seasoning.
Buy decent-quality anchovies. Cheap anchovies are nothing but a musty, earthy mouthful of salt, but the clear, saline flavour of a quality Portuguese anchovy will lift the dish enormously.
KEY COMPONENTS
Red mullet jelly
Fennel bavarois
Sardine foam
Anchovy straws
TIMING
The red mullet jelly can be made the day before. The anchovy straws can be assembled then too, but cannot be baked until the last minute. The sardine paste can be made the day before, but the foam base should be made on the day. The fennel bavarois can be made up to 6 hours in advance. The shot glasses should not be put together until 2 hours before serving. The only last-minute task is to bake the anchovy straws.
RED MULLET JELLY
6 x 300g red mullet
50ml olive oil
1 fennel bulb, sliced
½ small carrot, sliced
½ celery stick, sliced
¼ leek, sliced
2 star anise
½ teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 garlic clove, smashed
a pinch of saffron strands
1 strip of orange zest
100ml Pernod
1 teaspoon tomato purée
1 ripe tomato, chopped
1 slice of lemon
1 sprig of basil
3½ gelatine leaves
FENNEL BAVAROIS
25ml olive oil
225g fennel, finely sliced
½ white onion, finely sliced
1 tablespoon Pernod
2 star anise
10 fennel seeds
250ml whipping cream
½ gelatine leaf
125ml double cream
SARDINE FOAM
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 red onion, finely chopped
½ red pepper, finely sliced
2 garlic cloves, crushed
12 sardine fillets
1 tablespoon plain flour
½ tablespoon tomato purée
400ml double cream
juice of ½ lemon
ANCHOVY STRAWS
150g Puff Pastry
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
9 anchovy fillets
METHOD
RED MULLET JELLY
Gut the red mullet and remove their gills, fins and eyeballs. Rinse briefly under cold running water, pat dry and season generously. Place a large, heavy-based, non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and leave for 2 minutes. Add the olive oil, followed by the red mullet, and cook for about a minute, until the fish are golden. Turn them over, repeat for the other side, then transfer to an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Cook for 10 minutes, then lift the fish out of the pan and set aside.
Add the vegetables, star anise, coriander and fennel seeds and garlic to the pan, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and cook over a high heat for 5 minutes or until the vegetables just start to colour. Add the saffron, orange zest and Pernod and cook until the Pernod has evaporated. Add the tomato purée and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Place the red mullet back in the pan, just cover with water, add the tomato, bring to the boil and simmer for 1 hour. Turn off the heat, add the lemon and basil, stir briefly and leave to rest for 30 minutes. Drain through a colander, discard the solids and pass the stock through a fine sieve. Taste and season if necessary. If the stock simply lacks flavour, pour it into a large, shallow pan and boil until reduced to 500ml.
Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes or until completely soft. Heat up 100ml of the fish stock to near boiling point. Squeeze out excess water from the gelatine, add the gelatine to the stock and stir until it has completely dissolved. Add a further 400ml fish stock and set aside to cool. Cover and chill.
FENNEL BAVAROIS
Place a heavy-based pan over a medium heat and add the olive oil, fennel, onion and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes or until the fennel is tender. Add the Pernod, star anise and fennel seeds and cook for a further 2–3 minutes. Add 200ml of the whipping cream, bring to the boil, then turn down the heat, cover and cook at a bare simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the star anise, transfer the mixture to a blender and blend to a smooth purée. Pass through a fine sieve.
Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes, until softened. Lift it out, squeeze out the excess moisture, add the gelatine to the fennel purée and whisk until the gelatine has dissolved and the purée just begins to set.
Put the double cream and the remaining whipping cream in a bowl, add a pinch of salt and whisk until peaks form. Fold it into the fennel purée, ensuring it is completely homogeneous. Taste and adjust the seasoning if required. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a 1cm nozzle and set aside in the fridge.
SARDINE FOAM
Place a heavy-based casserole over a medium heat and leave for 1 minute. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, followed by the onion, red pepper, garlic, and a pinch of salt. Cook for 8–10 minutes, until the vegetables are completely soft and starting to caramelise.
Place a large, non-stick frying pan over a high heat and leave for 1 minute. Dip the skin of the sardine fillets into the flour. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan, sprinkle in a pinch of salt and add the sardine fillets, skin-side down. Season with salt and pepper and cook for 1 minute. Turn them over, remove the pan from the heat, leave for 15 seconds for the fish to cook in the heat of the pan, then lift out the fillets and transfer them to the casserole. Stir to break up the fillets, add the tomato purée and 100ml water and bring to the boil. Cover and transfer to an oven preheated to 120°C/Gas Mark ½. Cook for 50 minutes, then remove from the oven, blend to a purée with a hand blender and return the pan to the stove over a gentle heat. Cook until the mixture has reduced to a rich, thick paste. The time this takes will vary depending on the amount of moisture remaining in the pan once removed from the oven – the important point is to end up with a thick paste. Check and adjust the seasoning, then transfer to a small bowl and chill.
To make the foam base, put the cream in a heavy-based pan, bring it to the boil and simmer until it has reduced to 250ml. Stir in 125g of the sardine paste and the lemon juice, season if necessary, then transfer to a 500ml foam gun. Set aside.
ANCHOVY STRAWS
Work with cold puff pastry – place it in the freezer for 15 minutes before use. Lightly dust the work surface with flour and roll the pastry into a 30cm x 20cm rectangle, 2mm thick. Lay it on a sheet of baking parchment and chill in the freezer for another 15 minutes. Transfer the pastry to a chopping board and cut it crossways into 3 pieces Brush 2 pieces with egg yolk. A quarter of the way along one of the egg-washed pieces, lay 2 anchovy fillets across the pastry, keeping them close together. Repeat at the 10cm and 15cm points. Lay the second egg-washed piece neatly on top. Lay an anchovy fillet at the 2.5, 7.5 and 12.5cm points. Lay the third piece of puff pastry on top and press firmly to ensure they are all stuck together and any air pockets are expelled. Transfer to a piece of baking parchment and place in the freezer for an hour. Remove from the freezer and use a sharp knife to cut the pastry lengthways into 40 strips. It must remain cold – if it gets soft, return it to the freezer. Lay the cut strips, as you cut them, on a baking sheet, cut-side down and 2cm apart. When they are all cut, cover and place in the fridge. They can be stored like this for up to an hour.
The glasses should be set no more than 2 hours before serving. Place the red mullet stock over a gentle heat and melt. Pour it into a bowl set over ice and stir until it is just about to set. Remove from the ice.
Pipe 2cm of fennel mousse into each shot glass, then spoon or pour a 1cm layer of red mullet jelly over the top. Place the glasses in the fridge for at least 30 minutes or until the jelly has set.
TO SERVE
Place the tray of anchovy straws in an oven preheated to 220°C/Gas Mark 7 and bake for 6–7 minutes, until just golden brown. Whilst they must be golden and crisp, they should not be totally dehydrated. Lift the straws off the tray with a spatula while warm, transfer to a flat dish and keep warm. Remove the glasses from the fridge 10 minutes before serving. Charge the foam gun with gas and fill the shot glasses with sardine foam. Stick one anchovy straw into each glass and serve the other on the side.
PEA BAVAROIS, MINT JELLY, JERSEY ROYAL FOAM AND PARMESAN FEUILLETÉ
SERVES 20
A fresh pea’s purity of flavour is one of nature’s sweetest gifts to the kitchen. When it is paired with its classic partner, mint, the result is so much more than the sum of its parts. Mint provides the liaison between the peas and the Jersey Royals – without it, the flavour of the potato seems thin and lacking. The Parmesan feuilleté provides the appropriate textural, savoury contrast to this sweet, creamy assembly.
OVERVIEW
The peas are cooked with onion and milk, blended into a purée, set with gelatine and finally aerated and enriched with whipped cream. This is set in a glass, then topped with a mint jelly made with a mint-infused pea stock and finished with a rich, mellow Jersey Royal foam. Three sheets of puff pastry are sandwiched together with egg yolk and Parmesan, finely sliced and baked to yield warm, crisp feuilletés.
FOCUS ON
Tender, sweet peas are critical for this recipe. If you simply cannot source any, frozen petits pois would be a far better bet than woody, bland fresh peas.
Ensure the Jer sey Royals are thoroughly scrubbed so they give rise to a pure white foam.
If you don’t make the puff pastry, use a top-quality all-butter bought one. It has a leading role in this dish and inferior pastry has nowhere to hide. Do not overbake the feuilletés; whilst they must be crisp, they should still have some softness within. Cook them until they have risen and are just golden, not brown.
KEY COMPONENTS
Pea bavarois
Mint jelly
Jersey Royal foam
Parmesan feuilleté
TIMING
Parmesan feuilletés can be assembled the day before and cooked no more than 30 minutes before serving. However, fresh spring flavours wane quickly and the components in the glass must all be made on the day. The pea bavarois needs time to set, but should not be made more than 8 hours in advance. The mint jelly and Jersey Royal foam can be made then too.
PEA BAVAROIS
1.2kg fresh peas in the pod
25g unsalted butter
½ white onion, finely sliced
300ml milk
2 gelatine leaves
150ml double cream
JERSEY ROYAL FOAM
70g unsalted butter
½ small white onion, finely sliced
200g Jersey Royal potatoes, scrubbed clean
300ml milk
a sprig of mint
MINT JELLY
600g pea pods, from above
2 sprigs of mint
4 gelatine leaves
PARMESAN FEUILLETÉ
150g Puff Pastry
1 egg yolk, lightly beaten
80g Parmesan cheese, grated
METHOD
PEA BAVAROIS
Pop the peas out of the pods and set aside, reserving the pods for the mint jelly; you will need 500g peas. Place a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, add the butter, then the onion and a pinch of salt, and sweat for 4–5 minutes, until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the milk, bring to the boil, then add the peas. Return to the boil and cook at a bare simmer for 2 minutes. Transfer to a blender and blend to a smooth purée. Pass through a fine conical sieve into a bowl.
Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes, until softened. Lift it out, squeeze out the excess moisture and add it to the warm pea purée. Whisk thoroughly to dissolve and then set aside to cool.
Put the double cream and a pinch of salt into a bowl and set it over a large bowl of iced water. Whisk the cream until it forms soft peaks. Briefly whisk the pea purée to ensure it is smooth, then add the cream and gently fold together. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a 1cm nozzle ands set aside in the fridge.
JERSEY ROYAL FOAM
Place a heavy-based pan over a moderate heat and add 25g of the butter, the white onion and a pinch of salt. Sweat for about 5 minutes, until the onion is soft and translucent.
Slice the potatoes finely. Add the remaining butter to the pan, allow it to melt, then add the potatoes and sweat, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes. Add the milk and simmer until the potatoes are completely cooked. Remove from the heat, add the mint and leave to sit for 10 minutes. Take out the mint, transfer to a blender and blend to a smooth, rich purée. Taste and season if necessary. The foam base will have a delicate flavour, which will require maximum seasoning as it will be diluted when it gets aerated as a foam. Transfer the mixture to a 500ml foam gun, apply the lid and chill.
MINT JELLY
Chop the pea pods into 1cm pieces. Place them in a pan, cover with 600ml water, add a pinch of salt and set over a high heat. Bring to the boil and cook at a bare simmer for 10 minutes, then remove from the heat. Smash the mint stalks with a heavy knife, add to the pan and leave to cool for 20 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve and then season as required.
Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes until completely softened. Measure out 500ml pea stock, transfer 100ml of this to a small pan and bring to near boiling point. Squeeze out excess water from the gelatine, add the gelatine to the hot stock and whisk thoroughly to dissolve. Add the remaining 400ml and set aside to cool.
PARMESAN FEUILLETÉ
Roll out the puff pastry on a lightly floured surface to a 30cm x 20cm rectangle, about 2mm thick. Place it on a baking tray and chill for 15 minutes. Remove the puff pastry from the fridge and cut it crossways into 3 equal pieces. Brush 2 of these with egg yolk and sprinkle generously with the Parmesan. Place one of these pieces, Parmesan-side up, over the other and lay the third section on the top. Press the stack firmly to ensure the pieces bind together, then place in the freezer. Transfer to the fridge 30 minutes before cutting – the puff pastry must be as firm as possible, but not frozen.
TO SERVE
Cut the feuilleté assembly lengthwise into slices 3mm thick and lay them on their sides on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment, leaving about 3cm between each piece. Bake in an oven preheated to 170°C/Gas Mark 3 for 5–6 minutes, until just golden brown, no darker. Remove from the oven, lift the feuilletés off the tray and set aside to cool on a rack. Once cool, transfer to a tray.
If the mint jelly has set, warm it just enough to melt it, then put it over a bowl of iced water and let it cool to the point where it just starts to thicken. Lay out 20 shot glasses. Pipe in the pea bavarois to a depth of 2.5cm, cover with 1cm of mint jelly and transfer the glasses to the fridge to set.
Charge the foam gun containing the Jersey Royal foam with 1 charge and set aside in a pan of hot water to warm through. Remove the glasses from the fridge and fill up with Jersey Royal foam. Gently insert a Parmesan feuilleté into each glass and serve immediately.
