THE RECORD OF ELIZA ANN McAULEY

Wednesday, April 7th, 1852. Bade adiew to home and started amid snow and rain for the land of gold. Our outfit consists of two light strong wagons drawn by oxen and cows, one yoke of heavy oxen for wheelers and a lighter yoke for leaders, with one or two yokes of cows between. We have two saddle horses and a drove of twenty dairy cows, a good sized tent and a sheet iron camp stove which can be set up inside, making it warm and comfortable, no matter what the weather outside.

We have a plentiful supply of provisions, including dried fruits and vegetables, also a quantity of light bread cut in slices and dried for use when it is not convenient to bake. Our stove is furnished with a reflector oven which bakes very nicely. Our clothing is light and durable. My sister and I wear short dresses and bloomers and our foot gear includes a pair of light calf-skin top boots for wading through mud and sand.

The first night we spend in Mt. Pleasant with our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Tiffany.

Thursday April 8th. After a sad parting with Mother, sister Kate and numerous friends we made the real start of our journey.

Crossing Skunk River we stopped at the little town of Rome for the night, making but eight miles.

Friday, April 9th, 1852. Roads very bad, but pleasant overhead until just as we were stopping for the night at a farmer’s house it began to rain and continued all night.

Saturday, April 10th. Cleared off about nine o’clock and we resumed our journey. Stopped for the night at Fairfield, the county seat of Jefferson County [Iowa].

Sunday, April 11th. This morning the church bells were calling to worship, but we heeded not their gentle summons and hitching up our teams started onward, leaving church and Sabbath behind us. Road very bad all day. About three o’clock we came to an impassable mud hole in a lane. The only way was to lay down the fence and go through a field. While doing this the owner rushed out in great wrath, ordered us off and began laying up the rail fence, threatening all the while to go and get his gun and shoot us. Tom cooly laid his hand on the handle of his pistol, when the fellow suddenly changed his mind and went home and we left him to nurse his wrath and lay up his fence, which otherwise we should have put up as we found it. His object, it seems, was to compel us to stay over night at his place, and buy grain of him. About a mile farther on we stopped with an old Dutchman, who had plenty of grain, though the other one had told us there was no grain to be had for a long distance.

Monday, April 12, 1852. Immediately after starting, we had Cedar Creek to cross. The ford is very bad, and the Dutchman very kindly volunteered the services of himself and two or three boys and horses to assist us in crossing. Margaret and I walked across on the mill-dam. Tonight we pitch our camp for the first time. Our campground is a beautiful little prairie, covered with grass and we feel quite at home and very independent.

Tuesday, April 13th. This morning we passed through the old Indian Agency where we mailed a letter home. Soon after we struck the Des Moines River and traveled up the north bank, passing through Ottumwa, the prettiest place we have yet seen and have decided to come here and make our home when we return from California with a fortune. Camped this evening on the bank of a little stream. While we were eating supper a lady who lives close by came in to see, as she said, how campers did. On learning our name she and her husband, who are Scotch people, claimed acquaintance with our family in Scotland, and insisted on our going to their house to spend the night. They entertained us with the history of the McAuleys in Scotland, which we had never known before.

Wednesday, April 14th. Still travel up the Des Moines River. Roads very bad. In one place we had to double teams, take one wagon ahead a mile or so and then return for the other wagon. While struggling through the mud we were overtaken by two men from Eddyville, Meeker and Buck,1 who told us they intend to start in a few days for Oregon. We camped at the foot of a bluff about a mile from Eddyville.

Thursday, April 15th, 1852. Crossed the Des Moines at Eddyville. Ferriage seventy-five cents per wagon. This is a pretty little place of some business. Shortly after leaving the river we were overtaken by an old man who rode along talking to us for some time. When he went home he told of a train he had seen. He said there was an old man, two boys, a lady and a little girl, Tom being the “old man” and I the “little girl.” Five years difference in our ages. Camped on a little prairie near timber. Grass is very good so we do not have to buy grain for the stock.

Friday, April 16th. Soon after starting we passed a farm house where we traded the little white cow for a larger one better suited for the journey. This is a very pretty part of the country. The prairie is high and rolling. Toward evening we passed the house of the man who gave such a comical description of us. He advised us to camp for a few days, as farther on the grass is not good yet, and there is no grain to be had.

Crossed another Cedar Creek which was difficult to ford, went a half mile farther and camped.

Saturday, April 17th, 1852. Spent the day in camp, washing and baking.

Sunday, April 18th. Today we keep Sunday and write letters home. The cattle have fine grass and are doing well.

Monday, April 19th. This morning Tom made me practice target shooting with his pistol. I was very expert at missing the mark, but managed to hit the tree three times out of five.

Tuesday, April 20th. Today the boys went out hunting and brought in a little squirrel for a pet.

Wednesday, April 21St. A lazy day spent in camp.

Thursday, April 22nd. Got up the teams to start, but Mr. Slater2 came along and wanted to go with us, so we will wait a few days for him to get ready. He has a pretty wife and a dear little baby.

Friday, April 23rd, 1852. We all have the blues today, having nothing to do.

Saturday, April 24th. Margaret and I went over to Slater’s to help make his clothes. This evening the men who overtook us in a mud hole near Eddyville came to our camp for milk. They are Mr. Buck3 and the two Meeker brothers,4 one of them having a wife and six weeks old baby. They started today.

Sunday, April 25th. Today Margaret and I washed and baked and Tom bought some corn to take along for feed as we intend to start tomorrow. Mr. and Mrs. Slater came over this evening and it rained so they could not get home, so we all camped in the tent together, making quite a tent full.

Monday, April 26th. This morning Solan Yeoman, a neighbor of ours at home, came across our camp while looking for his cattle. He tells us his child is very sick. He laid by three weeks and is just starting again. It has been drizzly all day and the road is awful. Tom is so tired tonight that he can’t whistle. We have a beautiful camp ground near a little stream on the prairie. The Yeomans camp with us and the Eddyville company is about a mile back.

Tuesday, April 27. Fair weather today and a good road. We camp this evening just west of a little town called Sheridan Point, on the highest hill that we can find. The rest of the company went down the creek about a mile and camped. Some of them visited us this evening. Before starting this morning, one of our best cows got mired and died in a few minutes.

Wednesday, April 28th. Traveled about four miles this morning when we came to Grave Hollow, so named from the circumstances of a woman and child being killed there. In coming down a steep hill a woman attempted to jump from the wagon with the child in her arms. Her dress caught in the wheel and she was drawn under and crushed to death. Here we came up with the Yoemans again. Their child died about daylight and they were just preparing a grave for it. We stopped and remained with them until after the burial.

The weather is fine and road good. We are traveling on a dividing ridge today, and in some places it is barely wide enough for the wagon road with ravines sloping off on each side, and again it widens out to the extent of several miles. In one place we crossed the vast chasm, stretching north and south as far as the eye can reach, leaving barely one place in which a wagon can cross. The country looks as if it had been torn asunder by some violent convulsion of nature. A singular feature of it is that on the eastern side is quite a growth of timber, while on the western side not a tree is to be seen. Tom’s theory of it is, that when the boys were sent down to plant trees, they got to quarreling about the ground, so they divided it off and dug a trench between them, and the boys on one side planted trees, while the others pitched quoits on the prairie.

Thursday, April 29th. Slater did not start with us and has only this morning overtaken us. Today we came through a place called “The Narrows.” It is a narrow strip of prairie, running for several miles between two bodies of timber. Here we traded one of our cows for another. Camped on White Breast.

Friday, April 30th. A very disagreeable day. A cold west wind blew all day. In making camp this evening, we placed the wagons so as to break the wind, and then by fastening each corner of the tent to a wagon wheel and putting an ox yoke and chain to each tent pin, we managed to keep it standing. The Meekers, not having any tent as yet, are camping with us tonight. One of their steers got snake-bitten on the nose this evening. It swelled very fast and gave the animal much pain, but an application of tobacco and whiskey soon relieved him. That is the only use our party makes of those articles.

Saturday, May 1St. Calm and pleasant again and roads good. Our friends Buck and the Meekers stopped at noon on a little creek for the rest of the day. We kept on the Grand River which by the way is a very small river. Passed through Mt. Pizgah, an old Mormon town, which is merely a collection of huts. Here we traded cows again.

Sunday, May 2nd. Spent the forenoon in washing and baking. At noon the rest of the party came up and we traveled on. Got to the half-way place between Eddyville and Cainsville [Kanesville]. Toward evening it began to threaten a thunder storm. By the time we stopped to make camp it was pouring rain. The boys set up the tent and held it over themselves, while Margaret and I each took a wagon and tried to keep things dry, but most of them got a pretty good soaking. For two hours it hailed and rained and blew a perfect gale. When it slacked up a little we got out the provision box and ate a cold supper. Then each one rolled up in a wet blanket and slept until morning.

Monday, May 3rd. It rained all night and fuel being scarce in this camp, we yoked up and traveled till noon, when we camped to dry our things.

Tuesday, May 4th. Pleasant weather and good road today. As we are crossing a large prairie, we have to haul our fuel for cooking.

Wednesday, May 5th. Today we crossed the East and Middle Nodaway. On the bank of the latter is a wayside directory, that is a tree with the bark peeled off and many names with the dates of those who have passed here written on it. Some of our boys left theirs on it also for a record. The road today has been quite hilly. Weather pleasant in the early part of the day, but this evening it is threatening rain.

Thursday, May 6th. Rained a little last night. Cloudy and misty this morning, but cleared off about ten o’clock. This afternoon we crossed the West Nodaway. This is a very bad creek to cross, the banks being high and steep. We got across safely and were very glad to leave it.

Friday, May 7th. It was quite foggy this morning and after it cleared away it was very warm and sultry. Shortly after noon we passed the grave of a child. It is an unusual sight here and there is a well beaten path to and from the grave. Some emigrant mother has left her little one behind.

This afternoon we crossed the East Fork of the Nishnabotna. This is a large stream, but we forded it without any difficulty. On the west bank is Indian Town, a mere collection of delapidated huts containing a few miserable looking inhabitants.

Saturday, May 8th. Got up this morning and found ten head of cattle missing. The boys found part of them at a Dutchman’s camp and him trying to yoke them up. Good roads today with the exceptions of the crossing of some sloughs, which were miry.

Sunday, May 9th. Started early. Two miles travel brought us to the West Nishnabotna. Here we ferried the wagons and swam the cattle across. This evening we came to settlements again. Bought some corn at 20 cents per bushel and potatoes at 60 cents.

Monday, May 10th. Got to Kanesville [Iowa], four miles from the Missouri River about noon. After a short delay we went on to the river and camped as near the ferry as we could get. There are thousands of wagons waiting to be ferried over.

Tuesday, May 11th. Got up early and took the wagons down a little nearer the ferry, so as to take advantage of the first opportunity to cross.

A dreadful accident happened here today. A boat manned by green hands was taking a boat of cattle across. The cattle rushed to one end of the boat, causing it to tip and in a moment there was a mass of struggling men and animals in the water. One man was drowned. Another, who was a good swimmer, remembered that he had left his whip, and cooly turned around and swam back after it.

Wednesday, May 12th. Wind blew furiously today and the ferry could do very little business.

Thursday, May 13th. Wind still blowing very hard. Some of our men are using the boat that sunk with the cattle and are having the privilege of using it for a few days.

Friday, May 14th. Another ferry boat sunk today, but no lives were lost. The boys are busy raising the boat.

Saturday, May 15th. Got one of Meeker’s wagons across and one of ours this morning, leaving the rest of our train on the eastern side. Mrs. Meeker and I crossed with them and were left alone to guard the wagons while the men were at work repairing the boat. Some Pawnee Indians came around, and getting impudent and troublesome, we pointed empty pistols at them and told them to “pucachee” or we would shoot them. The ruse succeeded and they soon left us. In the afternoon, having nothing else to do we amused ourselves by shooting at a mark. Had a light thunder shower this evening.

Sunday, May 16th. This morning was very cold and disagreeable, the wind blowing a perfect gale and the sand flying in clouds. After breakfast the boys took the wagons back from the river to a thicket of cottonwood and willow, where they are more sheltered.

The boys launched their boat this morning and have been ferrying all day, bringing the rest of our train across this evening. While we were getting supper, the Pawnee chief and twelve of his braves came and expressed a desire to camp with us. Their appetites are very good and it takes quite an amount of provisions to entertain them hospitably, but some willow boughs strewn around the camp fire suffices them for a bed.

Monday, May 17th. At break of day the Indians awoke us, singing their morning song. The old chief started the song and the others chimed in and it was very harmonious and pleasing. After breakfast when the boys went down to the river our guests went along and asked to be taken across. Margaret and Mrs. Meeker are washing today and I am to get dinner for the boys and take care of little Dickie.5

Tuesday, May 18th. Starting out this morning, we followed a bend of the river about three miles when we came to a beautiful little lake, with an island in the center covered with cottonwood trees. Here we found good grass and stopped for the day, as our cattle have fared poorly for several days. The wind blows a gale. Soon after we stopped, an old Indian riding an old pony came along, with a begging letter written by some white man, asking people to treat him well and give him something.

The boys went back to the river to run their ferry another day.

Wednesday, May 19th. The boys were late in getting to camp last night and some of them got lost in the bushes. We have now got a good “ready” and this morning made a fresh start. We soon came to the old Mormon winter quarters, where they stayed for two years after leaving Nauvoo. There is a large graveyard here.

We found a quantity of wild mustard and picked a mess for greens. The road was quite rough this morning, but grew better toward evening. We found a good spring of water and use willow roots for fuel.

Thursday, May 20th. Quite cool today. Road good. We passed over some beautiful prairie, which reminds of the prairies at home. There were a few scattering cottonwoods along the sloughs and river banks. Today we passed some Indian burial grounds, a large one with a small one on each side. The large one had been dug into, so that we could see the skeleton in a sitting posture. At two o’clock we came to Elk Horn River and had to wait about three hours to be ferried across. After crossing we drove about a mile, crossed a very bad slough and camped. There is a large camp here and there are many Indians around.

Friday, May 21st. Three of our cows were missing this morning, notwithstanding we had a guard out. Last night some of the Indians talked and traded with the emigrants to attract their attention, while others drove away their cattle, and as the night was dark and rainy they had a good chance.

We traveled through a drizzling rain till noon, when we struck Platte River and camped. There is a very large camp here and grass is scarce. Here we fell in with the Sand Hill boys, Mead6 and Crass from Wisconsin. They have a light wagon and two yokes of cattle that can travel as fast as horses.

Saturday, May 22nd. Weather clear and pleasant. Road good with the exception of sloughs, which are very bad. We now travel up the north side of Platte River. On our right stretches a beautiful rolling prairie, on our left flow the muddy waters of the Platte. The north side is destitute of timber, while the south side has a light growth of cottonwood. In places there are steep bluffs with a stunted growth of cedar on them.

The camp is full of Indians this evening, who under the guise of trading buffalo robes for blankets are watching opportunities to steal.

Sunday, May 23rd. Weather warm and pleasant. Roads bad. We had several deep, miry sloughs to cross. Two miles travel brought us to Shell Creek, which is thirty-one miles from the Missouri River. Here is a good bridge built by some emigrants, but the Indians have taken possession of it and demand toll.

This afternoon we met about a hundred Pawnees, returning from a hunt with sixty-seven ponies, laden with furs and dried meat. They passed by our little band of two wagons and three young boys with a civil “howdydo” but meeting the rest of our train, three wagons and eight men, they relieved them of most of their clothing, knives and tobacco and stampeded a team with Mrs. Ballard in the wagon.

Monday, May 24th. Pleasant weather and good roads today. About nine o’clock we came to Loup Fork of the Platte, but as the ferry is unsafe we decided to travel upstream, until we can ford.

Tuesday, May 25th. Today we crossed several tributaries of the Loup Fork. This afternoon we passed a Sioux village in ruins, also a stockade fort, probably used by trappers years ago. Found no grass for the cattle tonight, as this is a late burn. Mosquitoes in abundance.

Wednesday, May 26th. Started before breakfast and traveled a mile when we came to a ford, thirty-two miles from the ferry on Loup Fork. Here we stopped and got breakfast, while the boys examined the stream and decided to cross. Had to raise the beds of the first wagons, but as the bottom is quicksand, it soon raised high enough by the sand being stirred up. Went out a mile and stopped to let the cattle graze and dry out things, which got wet in crossing. Started at two o’clock traveled five miles and camped.

Thursday, May 27. Warm and pleasant. Traveled this forenoon over low wet prairie. At noon found a little stream and some grass. This afternoon there is nothing but sand hills. We camped among these without a stick of wood or a drop of water, except what we brought along.

Tom and Slater went out hunting and shot an antelope but did not get it. They found some prickly pear and a prairie dog village. They brought in a prairie dog, the first we have seen.

Friday, May 28th. Soon after starting we came to a ford of strong alkali water, which our cattle, being very thirsty drank of and it came nearer killing some of them. It also makes their feet sore and we have to make leather shoes for them. After the sand hills came a marsh, in which heavy wagons would sink to the hub. Found good grass at noon. This afternoon we crossed two creeks, both rather miry. Road sandy most of the day. This morning we camped near Wood River.

Saturday, May 29th. Crossed Wood River. Fair weather and good roads. Camped early on a branch of the Platte, a fine little stream of pure cold water. Here we came up with the Sand Hill boys. They left us several days ago.

Sunday, May 30th. There is a very large camp here and most of them are remaining for the day. There was preaching this afternoon and it seems more like Sunday than any since we left home. It has been very hot today. We hitched up about four o’clock and traveled six miles.

Monday, May 31st. Road good today. Camped in the open prairie tonight. There is some prickly pear near our camp, the first we have come to, and a new variety of cactus which is in bloom.

We all are gathered in Ezra’s [Meeker] tent this evening and had a merry time.

Tuesday, June 1st. Dock Ballard and I went horseback riding this morning down to the river where we saw a train that had just crossed from the south side of the Platte. They report a great deal of sickness and a scarcity of grass on that side, so we feel that we did well to stay on the north side. We saw a fresh grave, the first one since leaving the Missouri River. Nooned on Elk Creek where the water is scarce and bad. Tonight the feed is scant too and our poor stock are faring badly. We use buffalo chips for the first time. Two of our party went out hunting this morning and have not returned. Today we met three teams taking the back track. One of the men died and the others got discouraged even this far out.

Wednesday, June 2nd. Struck Platte River this afternoon and found a well of good water. This afternoon we found a spring of the best water we have had on the road. It has been exceedingly hot today and the road is so dusty that we were obliged to stop often and water the teams. As there was the appearance of a storm we camped early, though the water is scarce. Presently the storm broke in all its fury. I had lain down on a pile of bedding in the tent and when I awoke the bed was nearly afloat, and two of the boys were trying to hold the tent up. Finding the attempt useless, they abandoned the tent and all took to the wagons, which were anchored to stakes driven in the ground.

Thursday, June 3rd. This morning we found every tent in camp and one wagon blown over. In consequence of the storm we made a late start. Today we have passed a number of fresh graves. Grass tolerably good tonight.

Friday, June 4th. Our hunters came in before breakfast. Their friends had been very anxious about them. They saw no buffalo, but brought in a couple of stray ponies they had found.

Travelled but a short distance when we came to some high sand bluffs. We climbed to the top of these and had a fine view of the River and of the teams on the south side. We have found a new plant which is very beautiful. The stem has a waxy appearance, with three smooth peach colored leaves clustering together in a canaidal [conoidal?] shape, enclosing a little berry or seed.

At noon we crossed Skunk Creek and left the road, which goes around by the foot of the bluffs, and took a cut-off across Pawnee Swamp. This in high water is impassable, but at present is dry and filled with a luxuriant growth of grass. At the upper end of the swamp is Pawnee Spring, a very large spring of fine water. Camped this evening on Platte River, but found no grass.

Saturday, June 5th. Went ahead two miles and found some grass. stopped to graze the cattle and get breakfast. Crossed two creeks this forenoon. About three o’clock a light shower came up and we stopped until it was over. While waiting we witnessed a buffalo chase. Three of those noble animals were slain and in the fray a valuable dog was severely wounded.

The rain over we again started, crossing two creeks. Good grass tonight.

Sunday, June 6th. Crossed two more creeks and then came to steep, sandy hills, among which are many buffalo wallows. These hills are quite barren and support neither animal or vegetable life, except a little sand lizard. Later, we found giant cactus and several other new plants. One of our men killed two deer. Crossed two more creeks and camped for the night. Had to drive the cattle back to the hills for grass. While out with the cattle the boys Caught a little antelope and brought it to camp.

Monday, June 7th. Crossed three creeks in ten miles and struck into sandy hills again. At noon came into the river bottom again, but the road is still sandy. Wind blowing hard today.

Tuesday, June 8th. Crossed three creeks in about nineteen miles and take to the hills again for a few miles, then descend and cross another creek and come to Lone Tree. This is the only tree for two hundred miles on the north side of the River. We are now travelling from twenty to thirty miles a day.

Wednesday, June 9th. Traveled about two miles and camped on Castle River until three o’clock.

This afternoon we met an express to “the states” and wrote a letter home and sent back by it. Camped this evening by a prairie dog village. They are very active little fellows, and look very saucy sitting up in their doorways.

Thursday, June 10th. Had to cross a very bad alkali swamp and had to rush the cattle through to keep them from drinking the water. When they get alkalied the remedy is a good dose of whiskey. After noon the road was sandy. We had to camp without any grass.

Our antelope, Jenny, is a great pet in camp and is equally fond of Margaret and me. She bleats and cries if either one is away from her.

Friday, June 11th. Hitched up at daylight and traveled six miles before we found grass for the cattle. We then stopped to get breakfast and let the cattle feed. Tom goes out on horseback and looks for a camping place where there is grass and water. This afternoon we passed “The Ancient Bluff Ruins” on the south side of the River, a picturesque mass of rocks, resembling castles and fortifications in ruins. Here a crumbling turret, there a bastion, and in other places portions of a wall, with portholes, making the illusion complete. Near this we find wild southern wood, rue, tansy and several other garden herbs in their wild state, also some beautiful carnations and roses. At noon we camped in sight of the “Court House” rock on the south side. By the aid of our spy glass we can see plainly the cracks and crevices in the walls of the “Court House.”

Saturday, June 12th. Traveled over low sand bluffs again. At noon we were nearly opposite the “Chimney Rocks” also on the south side of the River. Camped near the River. Buffalo chips scarce and no other fuel to be had.

Sunday, June 13th. Traveled along the River until we were in sight of the “Capitol Hills” or “Scott’s Bluffs.” They received the later name from a tragical incident connected with the place. A company returning from Oregon in 1846 had got this far when one of their number, a Mr. Scott, was unable to travel further, and they being short on provisions, he begged them to go on and leave him to his fate, which they were reluctantly compelled to do and the poor fellow was left. These legends are related in our guide book.

Weather cool this morning, but got very warm toward noon. Camped on Spring Creek, a stream abounding in fine trout. Had good grass and water but no fuel. In such cases our dried bread comes in very handy, with milk from the cows. We have a tin churn in which the morning’s milk is put and by noon or evening we have a nice little pat of butter and some good buttermilk.

Monday, June 14th. Road very bad for two miles. After that it became better. Camped this evening near the Platte. Good grass and some timber. Had a fine shower this evening.

Tuesday, June 15th. The rain laid the dust and improved the road very much. This morning we met some Indians, the first in four hundred and fifty miles. They are of the Sioux tribe and are much better looking than any we have seen. About three o’clock we came opposite Fort Laramie. Some of the boys went over to the fort to mail letters. There are two or three nice looking houses in the fort, the first we have seen since leaving the Missouri River. Traveled about four miles further and camped. Here the River becomes narrow and swift.

Wednesday, June 16th. Early today came to steep rocky hills covered with a growth of scrubby cedar and pine. About ten o’clock found a little spring at the foot of a hill where we stopped for dinner and at four o’clock descended to the River again where we camped, all tired enough.

Thursday, June 17th. Road hilly but not so steep as yesterday. The country looks very wild and rough. In the evening found a fine spring and good grass.

Friday, June 18th. Weather very warm; road smooth; hills long but not very steep. We can see the Black Hills and Laramie Peak to the left, across the River. As our guide book crosses to the south side of the River at Fort Laramie, and we keep up the north side, we are following the trail without knowing what is ahead of us. Stopped at noon in a very wild looking place where the surrounding hills, worn by torrents of rain, resemble buildings in ruins. Struck the River about four o’clock, where we watered the cattle and took in some water for the night, then crossed some bluffs and camped in a little valley with good grass.

Saturday, June 19th. Soon struck the River and good road again. Laramie Peak has appeared to be directly opposite us for several days.

Sunday, June 20th. Road very hilly and sandy. While the wagons skirted around the bluff, Margaret and I cut across and saw many new plants and curiousities and had quite an adventure. Following carelessly along a gulch that had been washed out, we soon found ourselves hemmed in by perpendicular walls, from six to fifteen feet high. We had either to turn back and retrace our steps or go on and run the chance of getting out. We chose the latter and after following it for half a mile found a place where we could scramble out just before it terminated abruptly in the River. Tonight we heard that the body of a woman, who had been murdered, was found hidden in a clump of rose bushes near where we had been. Camped both noon and at night on the River, but grass is scarce.

Monday, June 21St. Shortly after starting we caught up with the Sand Hill boys. They left us on Thursday last, and yesterday lay by waiting for us. Road sandy all day. Grass scarce.

Tuesday, June 22nd. Very heavy sandy roads. No grass at noon. About three o’clock a shower came up. At the same time we found some good grass, so we camped for the night. When it cleared off above, one could still see the clouds below us in the valley. It was a grand, and to me, a novel sight.

Wednesday, June 23rd. Cool and cloudy. At noon we came to the ferry on Platte River, which is one hundred and fifty miles from the fort. This is an average of over twenty-one miles a day. The trail crosses here and we now have the use of our guide book again. Until noon the road was very sandy, but the sand was so wet it was not heavy wheeling. This afternoon the road is hard and smooth and we had a long but not very steep hill to climb. Found good grass and water where we expected none. There is a great deal of mineral and alkali water about here. We heard today the particulars about the tragedy across the River. There were two men and a woman concerned. The woman’s husband attacked the other man and stabbed him to death. He was tried, convicted and hung, and the woman was sent back to the fort.

Thursday, June 24th. Were delayed a few hours this morning by rain. During this time some of the boys went out and killed three buffalo, and brought in what meat they could carry. This is the first buffalo meat that we have had. Hilly road today. Camped tonight at Willow Springs. Grass and water good, but fuel scarce. That is, very few willows.

Friday, June 25th. Cool and cloudy. Rained a little at noon Sandy road this afternoon. Traveled twenty-one miles and camped at Independence Rock. This name was given it by Fremont who arrived here on the fourth of July, on his first exploring expedition. His party climbed to the top of the rock and partook of a fine dinner, which the ladies of St. Louis had prepared for them for this occasion. The name seems in every way appropriate. It is an immense granite rock, from six-hundred to seven-hundred yards long and one hundred and twenty to one-hundred and fifty yards wide, rising from the level plain, entirely isolated and independent of any other rock or hills. It is almost covered with the names of emigrants, chiseled in the rock or painted on its surface, with the date of their arrival. We saw the names of some of our friends, who had passed here in 1849 and 1850.

Saturday, June 26th. Crossed the Sweetwater one mile from the rock. Here we saw the graves of Mrs. Cole’s and Mrs. Dart’s babies, two sisters, acquaintances of ours, on their way to Oregon. Five miles farther we came to the Devil’s Gate. This was also named by Fremont’s party. It is a gorge through which the river has cut its way through perpondicular walls of rock about four hundred feet high. It is a mile west of the road and we went over to see it. Beyond this the valley widens out and is covered with luxuriant grass as far as the eye can reach We could see rain on the mountains on each side of us. But we got none. Traveled about sixteen miles today and camped early to do some washing.

Sunday, June 27th. Soon after starting this morning one of our team cows gave out from the effect of alkali water. We gave her salt pork and vinegar and she soon recovered sufficiently to travel again. Made twenty-one miles today. Poor grass tonight.

Monday, June 28th. Sandy road. We met a returning Californian with papers for sale. We bought a copy of the EI Dorado News for fifty cents. Heard of some mountain fever today. No grass nor water tonight.

Tuesday, June 29th. Started before breakfast, traveled five miles, when we came to grass and water and camped till noon. Started after dinner and crossed the Sweetwater three times. Traveled about twelve miles and camped on the River. Tolerably good grass. Very windy today.

Wednesday, June 30th. Made thirteen miles this forenoon. Very rough, hilly road, and windy and dusty. Traveled only 3 miles this afternoon and camped on McAchrem’s branch of the Sweetwater. There is still snow in this hollow. Grass good and water plenty. While the boys were out with the cattle this evening, the mare Fan was suddenly found to be missing. We suspect a set of traders that are stopping here.

Thursday, July 1st. Traveled on seven miles to the River and camped while Tom went out to hunt for the missing animal. Found good grass. Wind blew hard all afternoon.

Friday, July 2nd. Remained in camp. Tom returned without Fan, but found where she had been secreted. We have heard of a company ahead that had taken her from the traders or thieves.

Saturday, July 3rd. Tom started again in pursuit. We moved on, crossing Sweetwater for the last time. Ate luncheon on the south pass of the Rocky mountains. Altitude seven thousand, four hundred feet, but the ascent is so gradual, that one scarcely knows when one is at the summit. The headwaters of the streams flowing eastward to the Mississippi and those flowing westward to the Pacific are but a few feet apart. Traveled twenty-four miles today and camped on Dry Sandy Creek. Got a little water and no grass.

Sunday, July 4th. Hitched up and went ahead two miles and found a little dry grass and stayed to get breakfast and let the cattle feed. Four miles brought us to the forks of the Salt Lake and California roads. We took the Sublett cut-off, leaving Salt Lake to the south. Made eighteen miles today and camped on Big Sandy. Had to drive the cattle about six miles toward the hills for grass. It has been so windy and dusty today that some times we could scarcely see the length of the team, and it blows so tonight that we cannot set the tent or get any supper, so we take a cold bite and go to bed in the wagons. The wagons are anchored by driving stakes in the ground and fastening the wagon wheels to them with ox chains. Merrick,7 Margaret and I are the only ones in our camp tonight. Winthrop P.8 and Slater are out about six miles with the cattle, and Tom -we know not where he is.

We came near losing our pet antelope this evening. As she was frisking about the camp, a man from another camp was about to shoot her, thinking she was a wild one. She ran to another camp where a woman got hold of her and held her, and would scarcely believe that she belonged to me, though the poor little thing was struggling to get away and bleating piteously for me. Finally she got away and came bounding to me and followed me home.

Monday, July 5th. Just after daylight Tom came in. He got into camp last night but it was so dark he could not find our wagons. As we have a fifty mile desert to cross we lay by today to recruit the teams for it. Heard of our mare on the Salt Lake road and Tom started after her. Still very windy, cold and disagreeable.

Tuesday, July 6th. Started about noon, crossed Big Sandy and traveled part of the night before stopping to camp. Just before dark a thunder shower came up, which laid the dust and improved the road very much.

Wednesday, July 7th. Started before daylight and traveled until sunrise, when we found good grass and stopped to get breakfast. Road today rather hilly and sandy. At sundown we arrived at Green River, fifty miles from Big Sandy. In getting to the River we have to climb a very steep hill, and then slide down the other side of it. Green River is a very pretty stream, rather narrow and with a very swift current, which we have to ferry across. Ferriage, six dollars per wagon.

Tom met us this evening with the horses, our own and another, which he stole from the horse theives. He found them very cunningly hidden in a small, open space surrounded by thick brush. He came up the River from the Mormon ferry. He thinks the Fort Bridger road much better than this.

Tuesday, July 8th. Started out from our camp about two miles below the ferry. We had to climb a very sharp bluff. On the bluff along the road are thousands of names cut in the soft rock. Among the rest we noticed that of Asa Rodgers, a neighbor of ours, dated June 8th and McCully and Linn9 of New London dated June 11th and of course left our own record. Traveled about thirteen miles to Lost River and turned down it about three miles to camp. Good grass and water.

Friday, July 9th. Remain in camp today. Warm and pleasant once more. There was a heavy dew last night.

Saturday, July 10th. Sold one of the steers that has got lame for three dollars. Traveled three miles back to the road and three more to the ford of Lost River. Rather hilly road. Weather warm and pleasant. Camped near a pine grove ten miles from Lost River. Just at dusk our old traveling companions Buck and the Meekers came up and camped with us. We left them on Platte River and have not seen them since. Ezra has been very sick with the mountain fever, but is better now. O. P. also has been sick, but is now about well. They report a great deal of sickness back.

Sunday, July 11th. Very rough, hilly road. Made only nine miles this forenoon and nooned on Crow Creek. This afternoon traveled seven miles to Ham’s fork of Bear River. This is a very pretty stream but quite small. Good grass.

Monday, July 12th. We have a very long, steep mountain to cross, two miles to the summit. In places it is very steep and difficult and we see the wrecks of several wagons and carriages, that have broken down in attempting it. The descent is quite easy. This afternoon we passed through a beautiful grove of fir and quaking aspin. Shortly after that we had some very steep rough road, mostly descending. Crossed Stony Creek. This is half way between the Missouri River and Placerville. Three miles from this we strike the Bear River Valley. We camped in the hills just at the edge of the valley. Grass and water tolerably good. Mosquitoes abundant.

Tuesday, July 13th. Traveled six miles today and camped on Bear River. Here is splendid feed, the cattle wading in wild oats up to their eyes, while we have fun making pop corn candy. Margaret is baking cookies, but the boys steal them as fast as she can bake them. Soon after camping, we saw a company of returning Californians, but they were too far off to get to speak with them. We are having a gentle shower this evening, while it is raining hard in the mountains around us.

Wednesday, July 14th. Have to go through a miry swamp this morning to get to the road. After traveling about two miles we came to fork roads. The right hand goes up around the mountain and crosses Smith’s Fork and four branches; the left, keeps down the river bottom, and crosses Smith’s Fork of the Bear River on a toll bridge which was just completed this morning. We took the latter, paying fifty cents a wagon toll. After leaving the bridge we saw to the right a very singular looking mountain. At first it appeared like a sugar loaf, but on coming nearer we found it to be connected to the main ridge. The rains have washed its sides in regular ridges and so true and even are they that it looks more like a work of art than a freak of nature. Road good, grass fine. Plenty of trout and other fish.

Thursday, July 15th. Traveled ten miles today and camped on Bear River. Just before coming to the River we had the hardest mountain to cross on the whole route. It was very steep and difficult to climb, and we had to double teams going up and at the summit we had to unhitch the teams and let the wagons down over a steep, smooth sliding rock by ropes wound around trees by the side of the road. Some trees are nearly cut through by ropes. Rained a little this evening. Mosquitoes very bad. The boys fished awhile and then took a ramble around the country and discovered a pass, by which the mountain can be avoided by doing a little road building.

Friday, July 16th. The boys took another look at the pass and concluded to stop and make a road around the mountain.

Saturday, July 17th. The Meekers resume their journey to Oregon, Mr. Buck remaining with us. We part with them with much regret.

Sunday, July 18th. Notwithstanding it is Sunday, the boys continue their work and have hired some men to assist for a day or two, to cut brush. In the afternoon there was the appearance of a heavy rain but it all went around us.

Monday, July 1 9th. We have settled down to regular housekeeping and this being Monday it is of course washday. In cutting a way for the road, the boys find thickets of wild currants. There are several varieties, the black, the red and the white. The boys cut the bushes, some of them ten feet long and loaded with ripe currants, which we strip off and make into jelly, currant wine and vinegar, dried currants and currant pie.

Tuesday, July 20th. Had a light shower last night. Today is extremely warm. Our camp is in a pretty little valley, with the hills on one side and Bear River on the other. The Indians brought fish today to trade for bread.

Wednesday, July 21st. We have met with a sad loss today. Our pet antelope, Jennie, was playing around the camp and the dogs belonging to a large camp of Indians espied her and gave chase. The Indians tried to rescue her, but could not. They then offered to pay for in skins and robes. We told them it was an accident and they were not to blame, but they immediately packed up to go, saying they were afraid the men would shoot them when they came.

At dinner time a very intelligent Indian named Poro, came to our camp. He says he has been to the Missouri River and seen steamboats and explained by signs what they were like. He seems to understand the customs of the whites very well. His name is Poro. In the afternoon he came again, bringing his little boy, four or five years old. He interpreted a number of Indian words for us.

Thursday, July 22nd. Very hot today. Mosquitoes troublesome in the evening. The Indians are very friendly and visit us often. We have engaged Poro to make us some moccasins, or rather his squaw is to make them.

Friday, July 23rd. Poro visited us again today and brought his friend Pavee to see us.

Saturday, July 24th. We had a call this morning from Iowa neighbors, John and Robert Wallace. Moved the camp up the River about three miles on the road and camped in a beautiful place on the river bottom. We have eight or nine hands today to work on the road. The boys want to get it finished to save people from having to cross that dreadful mountain and also that we may get away sooner.

Sunday, July 25th. This is the most like Sunday of any day since we left home, and we feel very much at home here. Old Poro came along about ten o’clock and stayed a long time, teaching us his language. It pleases him very much to see us try to learn it. There are a great many geese and cranes about the river.

Monday, July 26h. Wash day.

Tuesday, July 27th. Ironing and baking today. Poro brought our moccasins. They are very neatly made. His little boy came with him. I offered a gay plaid shawl in payment for the moccasins. Poro was quite pleased with it and inclined to accept it, but refered the matter to the boy. He talked to his father, who explained that he thought it was very pretty but he could not eat it. He wanted bread and sugar, so we gave him what he wanted.

Wednesday, July 28th. Poro came again today and brought a nice mess of service berries. He has been counting the “sleeps” before we go away, and regrets our going very much. He said today, “One sleep more and then wagons go away to California,” and we have parted with white folks that did not regret so much.

Thursday, July 29th. Pora came twice today to bid us goodbye and feels very sad about our going. After dinner we started on, leaving Thomas and Mr. Buck to remain on the road a week or two to collect toll and pay the expenses of making it. Traveled thirteen miles and found good grass but no wood nor water.

Friday, July 30th. Started early and had good road. Crossed several fine streams. Made twelve miles this forenoon and camped on a small stream near a spring. Pretty good grass. This was according to the guide book, the last good water for seventeen miles, but we found several good springs this afternoon and have the best of grass and water to camp on. Our teams are so well rested and recruited that they travel right along. Had a light shower this evening. Mosquitoes very bad. Made twenty-two miles today.

Saturday, July 31St. About eleven o’clock we came to Soda Springs. Here are many curious formations, caused by the overflow of water from the springs. Six miles beyond we passed the Oregon and California roads. The Oregon road appears to be traveled much the more. Twenty-two miles today. Some grass but no water.

Sunday, August 1st. Rained a little last night which wet the grass and laid the dust. Traveled seven miles and came to a beautiful spring branch. After watering here we drove on for a mile and a half and stopped for noon. Grass rather scarce. Shortly after starting again a heavy thunder storm came up and we stopped in the shelter of some bushes. The rain made the road slippery and when we started again it was with difficulty that we got to the top of the hill. Seventeen miles today. Drove the cattle across a creek to pasture.

Monday, August 2nd. Took in a man who stayed with us last night to help drive the cattle. He is from Ohio and his name is Dougherty. He gave his part of the team to his partner, who has a family to bring through, and had been walking until he became so footsore and tired he could go no further, so we furnished him a horse to ride and he helps to drive the loose cattle. There was a heavy dew last night. Weather fine today. Excellent grass all along the road this fornoon. We traveled ten miles and nooned on a branch of Panack [Bannock] River. Had a long but not very steep hill to climb this afternoon. We met a wagon from Salt Lake selling vegetables and treated ourselves to a supply.

Good camping place this evening.

Tuesday, August 3rd. Road rather hilly this morning. Nooned on a little creek where there are two trading posts, having among other things fresh vegetables for sale. We bought some potatoes at twelve and a half cents a pound. We here enter upon a stretch of twenty-five miles without water. Traveled nineteen miles today.

Wednesday, August 4th. Very hilly road this morning. One very bad hill to descend. Found good grass at noon. We stopped about sundown, got supper and rested awhile and then drove until ten o’clock when we got through to a beautiful spring and good grass.

Thursday, August 5th. Lay by until noon, then hitched up and traveled about ten miles and camped on the top of a mountain. We carried water along from a spring about a mile back, and found plenty of good dry grass on the mountain side. Two packers are staying with us tonight. A heavy rain has laid the dust nicely.

Friday, August 6th, 1852. Weather pleasant and road good, though somewhat hilly. Had a very bad creek to cross and came very near upsetting a wagon. Traveled fourteen miles this forenoon and found but little grass. This afternoon traveled six miles and camped early on Sinking Creek. Had fine grass.

Saturday, August 7th. Fine roads today. Traveled two miles and crossed Sinking Creek again and went on to east branch of Raft River, twelve miles. Good grass here. This afternoon we passed the junction of Fort Hall and California roads. Traveled twenty-one miles today and found a good camping place tonight.

Sunday, August 8th. Traveled eleven miles and camped for the rest of the day. Found good grass and water.

Monday, August 9th. Traveled eight miles when we entered Pyramid Circle. This is one of the greatest curiosities on the road. In some places a piller rises to a height of one hundred and fifty feet, with smaller ones piled on the top and sides, looking as though a breath of air would hurl them down. These pyramids are of various colors. The sides have been washed by the rains in all manner of fantastic shapes, giving the place a most romantic and picturesque appearance. The circle is five miles long and three miles wide, level within the wall around and entirely surrounded by these pyramids or cliffs except an inlet at the east end of about fifty yards, and an outlet at the western end just wide enough to permit the wagons to pass through. The rocks are covered as far up as one can reach or climb, with names of emigrants. We left ours with date in a conspicuous place for the boys behind. We saw the names of some of our acquaintances who passed here two years ago.

Tuesday, August 10th, 1852. Had some very rough road today. Came near getting our wagons smashed coming down the mountain to Goose Creek. Traveled fifteen miles today and camped on Goose Creek. Good grass and water.

Wednesday, August 11th. Fine road this morning with the exception of some very bad sloughs. Several wagons in the train were broken in crossing them. Good grass at noon but had to travel until after dark to find any tonight. Made about twenty-four miles today.

Thursday, August 12th, 1852. Windy and dusty. Road hilly. No grass at noon. About three o’clock struck Thousand Spring Valley. At the head of the valley is a fine spring, but after a few miles we could rind neither grass nor water. Made about twelve miles. Got some fresh beef tonight.

Friday, August 13th. Traveled until eleven o’clock when we found some excellent grass and a little water. Two or three little birds have followed us all the morning, and when we camped came chirping fearlessly about the camp. Started at two o’clock. Traveled thirteen miles today. Grass good but water poor.

Saturday, August 14th. Soon after starting we met the Indian agent with two carriages and seven or eight horsemen. They gave encouraging news about the grass and water ahead. About ten o’clock we came to the boiling springs. Here several large springs boil up in the middle of the valley, forming a large stream at a temperature of one hundred and seventy degrees with a nauseous, sickening smell. A distressing accident occurred here about two hours before we arrived. Two brothers, who had been out hunting, stopped here to wait for their train. As they were sitting on the ground, they heard a gun fired off across the stream, and thinking there were Indians about, one of them sprang to his feet, at the same time catching up his gun, which was lying on the ground before him, with the muzzle toward him and it went off, the ball passing through his lungs. He was still alive but sinking rapidly when we left. We gave them all the fresh water we had, which was all that we could do for them, as their train had come up.

By noon we reached the end of the valley where we found two good springs, but no grass. Passed through a canon and again over the hills for eight miles and again struck a valley, which is covered with the best of grass that looks like ripe grain. We camped here near some good sulphur springs. There are a great many camped here and a merrier set I never saw. Just after dark we were treated to a variety of barnyard music in various parts of the camp. Roosters crowed, hens cackled, ducks quacked, pigs squeeled owls hooted, donkeys brayed, dogs howled, cats squalled and all these perfect imitations were made by human voices. Made twenty-one miles today. Road dusty. Weather warm.

Sunday, August 15th, 1852. We soon came to another canon very rough and rocky. Through it runs a creek which we crossed seven times. The first crossing we had to raise the wagon beds. The others were not so deep, but the last one was very stony. At one place there was a fine looking spring bubbling out from under a rock, but what was our disappointment to find it lukewarm. After leaving the canyon we came to a fine valley covered with grass. We camped on a dry creek but got water by digging in the bed of the creek. The road has been very dusty today.

Monday, August 16th, 1852. This morning we struck the head waters of the long-talked-of and much-dreaded Humboldt, but were agreeably surprised to find splendid grass and water, and good road. Traveled twenty miles today.

Tuesday, August 17th. Today we had a slight recurrence of the old sand hills, but the road generally is very good. Rather windy and dusty, which makes disagreeable travelling. Distance twenty miles.

Wednesday, August 18th. Nothing of interest today. Road very dusty. We crossed the river once.

Thursday, August 19th. Quite cool this morning and still grew cooler until it was very disagreeable. We crossed the river three times within two hours. The fords are very good. Grass scarce at noon. This afternoon we had a mountain to climb, nine and a half miles to the summit. Here we are obliged to camp without any grass, but found a good spring near the road.

Friday, August 20th. Went on about two miles and found some grass. Here we stopped, fed the cattle and got breakfast. We then descended the mountain ten miles to the Humboldt again, crossed it and traveled two miles and stopped for noon. Kept the river bottom this afternoon. Good grass and plenty of water.

Saturday, August 21st, 1852. Crossed over the point of a stony hill. We then crossed the river and took a bottom road instead of keeping the south side over the hills. Good road and good grass.

Sunday, August 22nd. Passed around a stony point, struck the river and then left it for seven miles, taking across a bend over a sandy alkali plain. We then struck the river again and nooned. Camped early tonight on good grass. Just after we stopped nine men came up and asked for supper. They had been out hunting some horses that were stolen by the Indians, and had eaten nothing since yesterday. They found one horse alive and the Indians eating another. The rest were scattered through the mountains so that they could not be found.

Monday, August 23rd. Sandy, dusty road. Weather very warm. Grass good.

Tuesday, August 24th. Most of the emigrants cross to the south side of the river, but we keep to the north side as the road is better. This afternoon we had some tedious sand hills to cross. When we got into the valley again we found no grass for several miles, and then it was very dry.

Wednesday, August 25th, 1852. Soon after starting Thomas overtook us. His first salutation was “Well you have traveled like the devil. I thought I should never overtake you.” He left Mr. Buck Sunday morning. We camped at noon waiting for Mr. Buck to come up.

Mr. Holmes killed a deer this evening and we got a piece. It is very fat and nice.

Thursday, August 26th. Remained in camp today. Friday, August 27th. Moved down the river about a mile and camped for the day.

Saturday, August 28th. Hearing from Mr. Buck we moved on. Just after dinner he came up. He has been past us down the river and saw Father10 out looking for us. Crossed the river again after dinner.

Sunday, August 29th, 1852. After traveling about six miles we met Father. Oh wasn’t it a joyful meeting. He had been waiting at a trading post, which was also a relief station, one of several that had been established by the State of California for the relief of destitute emigrants and as a bureau of information. We crossed to the north side of the river again. Road dusty, but grass is good.

Monday, August 30th, 1852. Traveled until ten o’clock when we stopped to cut some grass to take along. Camped tonight without any grass, so we found use for our hay. High wind all day.

Tuesday, August 31st. Started out early. Struck the river and watered, but found no grass, so we drove on a short distance and fed the rest of our hay. Found some grass tonight.

Wednesday, September 1st, 1852. Very hot and dusty today. By driving late tonight we reached the Big Meadows.

Thursday, September 2nd. Lay by until three o’clock and cut grass for the cattle. We then drove down the river about four miles where we found good grass and water.

Friday, September 3rd, 1852. The bottom is covered with a thick growth of cane, which the cattle eat greedily. Found good grass at noon, but no water until we came to the river again at four o’clock. Before reaching it we crossed a very barren, desolate plain, the wind blowing very hard and raining a little. Near the river is a trading post and relief station. We crossed here but were obliged to cross back on account of a miry place at the sink of the Humboldt. Found pretty good grass this evening but the water is pretty bad.

Saturday, September 4th. After feeding some hay we started into the desert. Had to make quite a bend to get around the sink. Weather cool and pleasant. We met a man hauling water from the Truckee for the relief station, who gave us some drinking water. We stopped at noon, fed and watered from the store in our wagons and drove again and rested until tenthirty. We then started and drove the rest of the night, passing the boiling springs about midnight. These springs boil up with great noise, emitting a very nauseous smell, but as it was dark we could not examine them very closely. We hear that a woman and child have got scalded very badly by stepping into one of them.

Sunday, September 5th. Made our breakfast on bread and milk having no wood to cook with, and one of the cows stole all of the water we had, so we are obliged to put up with light diet. We are now seven miles from the Truckee River, but the road here becomes very sandy and heavy. After traveling three miles the teams begin to give out, so we had to unhitch them from the wagons and send them on to grass and water. The boys went on with the cattle, leaving Mr. Daugherty, Margaret and myself with the wagons. After resting awhile, Margaret and I started on, taking with us a cow that had given out and been kept behind. We took a bucket a short distance before her, and the poor thing, thinking there was water in it would get up and struggle on a few steps and then fall exhausted. After resting a few minutes we would get her on a few steps. In this way we had gained about a mile, when we met Thomas returning with a canteen of water. We took a drink and gave the rest to the poor cow, which revived her so that she was able to get to the River.

Thomas said that when the cattle were within three miles from the River they smelled the water, and lifting their heads started on a run for the river and never stopped until they had plunged in and rushed half way across. It was about noon when Thomas returned with the water, and Margaret and I then lay down on the bare sand, with the hot sun pouring down on us and slept until the boys returned with the teams. We then started for the river which we reached about five o’clock. This is a delightful stream of pure, cold water, about two rods wide and two feet deep. The current is swift and the banks are lined with a fine growth of cottonwood, which is quite refreshing after such a long tedious desert. There are several trading posts here and a relief station. After crossing the river we went up it about two miles and found good grass.

Monday, September 6th, 1852. Lay by today to rest. Tuesday, September 7th. For a short distance up the river the road is good, but it soon becomes sandy and then rough and hilly. Crossed the river just before noon and again after noon, and had very rough road most of the day. In places huge rocks rise several hundred feet, some of them of the most beautiful colors, deep crimson, red, pink, blue and green, most beautifully shaded and blended. Others are a conglomeration of crystals, quartz, mica and sand. Camped on the river this morning and found good grass. The water is delightful, being the opposite extreme from that in the sink of the Humboldt, and we drink for the pure pleasure of drinking.

Wednesday, September 8th. Started immediately into a canyon and had very good road until we arrived at the summit. It was then rough and rocky down to the river, a distance of about three miles. The road was then in the bottom until we camped at noon. We ate dinner on the bank of the river under the shade of a large cottonwood, which overhangs the water. This afternoon we again took to the hills and rocks and traveled till late to reach Truckee Meadows. Crossed the river again before camping.

Thursday, September 9th, 1852. Went up the river about three miles when we came up with Mr. Holmes our Arkansas acquaintance, with a drove of beef cattle. We bought some fresh beef of him and camped for the rest of the day on the bank of the river.

Friday, September 10th. Crossed the river at a good ford. Had a very heavy sandy road till noon. It was then hilly and rough the remainder of the way.

Saturday, September 11th. Drove a few miles till we came to some good grass and stopped until noon. We then drove on over hills until toward evening, when we came to the father of all hills. Here, we went about two miles to get three hundred yards, but we could not ford the river so had to take the mountain. Mr. Holmes’ train here came up and we all went up the river about two miles and camped.

Sunday, September 12th, 1852. Today we take the Sierra Nevadas. Got over the first range by noon, and found the road much better than we expected, the hills being quite gradual. The scenery here is magnificent. High mountains rising on every side, covered with pine, fir and arbor-vitae.

We nooned in a little valley, covered with grass and had good road all afternoon. Camped on a branch of the truckee River.

Monday, September 13th. Very cold this morning, but became quite pleasant when the sun got above the mountain tops. Had very good road this forenoon and nooned in a little valley with excellent grass and water. This afternoon we passed Starvation Camp, which took its name from a party of emigrants, who, in 1846 attempted to reach Oregon by a southern route, but getting belated in the mountains, the snow came on and buried up their cattle. Here they were forced to remain several weeks, and were, it is said, reduced to the terrible extremity of cannibilism, and but six were living when relief came to them. It is the most desolate, gloomy looking place I ever saw. There were the ruins of two or three cabins down in a deep dark canyon, surrounded by stumps ten to fifteen feet high, where they were cut off above the snow.

Donner Lake, a beautiful sheet of water, not far from here, was named in remembrance of the party.

We camped in a small valley, about three miles west of this place.

Tuesday, September 14th, 1852. This morning we began the accent of the main ridge, which is very steep and rough. About nine o’clock we doubled teams and began the ascent of the summit, and by one o’clock we all arrived in Summit Valley on the western slope, where we remained the rest of the day.

While the teams were toiling slowly up to the summit, Father, Mr. Buck, Margaret and I climbed one of the highest peaks near the road, and were well repaid for our trouble by the splendid view. On one side the snow-capped peaks rise in majestic grandeur, on the other they are covered to their summits with tall pine and fir, while before us in the top of the mountains, apparently an old crater, lies a beautiful lake in which the Truckee takes its rise. Turning our eyes from this, we saw the American flag floating from the summit of one of the tallest peaks. We vented our patriotism by singing “The Star Spangled Banner” and afterward enjoyed a merry game of snow ball. Turning to descend, the mountain side looked very steep and slippery, and Margaret and I were afraid to venture it. Father, who is a very active man for his age (about sixty)11 volunteered to show us how to descend a mountain. “Just plant your heels firmly in the snow, this way,” he said, but just then, his feet flew from under him and he went sailing down the mountain side with feet and hands in the air. After a minute of horrified silence we saw him land and begin to pick himself up, when we gave way to peals of laughter. We found an easier way down and rejoined the train, and tonight we camp in Summit Valley on the western slope of the Sierra Nevadas, and are really in California.

Wednesday, September 15th, 1852. Traveled down the valley a mile or two and again took the mountains. The road was mostly descending and rough. There are a number of pretty little lakes, nestled in among the mountains, which give a most charming effect to the landscape. Drove until late and had to camp without any grass.

Thursday, September 16th. This forenoon the road was very rough. In one place we had to let the wagons down by ropes over a smooth rock several yards long where the cattle could not stand. This afternoon the road was better. We camped in Yuba Valley where the grass is very good.

Friday, September 17th. The road was very good for a few miles until we came to Bear River Mountain. This was very steep and bad to descend, but we managed to get down safely, and camped in Bear Valley. Here our stock soon found their way into a ranch where they fared finely.

Saturday, September 18th, 1852. We started down the valley, passing a house on the way, which I must describe as it is the first California house we have seen. It is three logs high, about six feet long, and four wide, one tier of clapboard or shakes as they are called here, covering each side of the roof. Leaving this, and passing through a gate we soon came to another cabin of larger dimensions. Here the road forks, one leading to Nevada City, the other, which we took, leading to Little York. About four o’clock we came to Mammoth Spring. This is most delicious water. Finding some good grass about a mile from here we camped for the night, this being our last camp on the journey.

Sunday, September 19th. We passed Mule Springs this morning. There are some mines at this place, also a tavern and a small ranch. About noon we arrived at Father’s cabin, where we consider our journey ended, after traveling almost constantly for more than five months.

Our first impression of Californians is that they are a very delicate people, as their complexions contrast so strongly with those of the sun-burned travelers on the plains. Several called to pay their respects to “Father Mac” as he is affectionately called by the miners, and to get a glimpse of his two daughters, a woman being a rare sight here. One enthusiastic miner declared he would give an ounce of gold dust for the sight of a woman’s sunbonnet.

We have been so long without fresh vegetables that we found that cold, boiled vegetables a great luxury, and Margaret and I devour all that are left between meals.

 

1 The “two men from Eddyville” were Ezra Meeker and William Buck. Ezra Meeker became one of the most famous of the overlanders in later life. This was to be the “Eddyville company” of 1852. Later Ezra wrote a number of books about his own life with special emphasis upon his journey over the trail and many references to the McAuleys. He pioneered in his late life the marking of the trail. “Ezra Meeker the Pioneer,” Washington Historical Quarterly, xx, No. 2 (April, 1929) PP. 124-28.

2 The only Slater we have found on record as having traveled over the trail was S. S. Slater, whose name was inscribed without date on Independence Rock. Natrona Historical Society, Casper, Wyoming, Independence Rock, the Great Record of the Desert, R. S. Ellison, Editor (Casper, 1930), P. 37.

3 Ezra Meeker described his dear friend, William Buck, as “One of Nature’s noblemen,” Ventures and Adventures of Ezra Meeker (Seattle, Washington, 1908), PP. 54-55. With soaring words he went on to speak of him as “Always scrupulously neat and cleanly, always ready to cater to the wants of his companions and as honest as the day is long, he has always held a tender place in my heart. It was Buck who selected our nice little outfit, complete in every part, so that we did not throwaway a pound of provisions nor need to purchase any. The water can was in the wagon, of sufficient capacity to supply our wants for a day, and a ‘sup’ for the oxen and cows besides…”

4 Ezra and Oliver Meeker. Ezra was the one with the young wife, Eliza Jane, whose maiden name had been Sumner. The baby boy, Richard, was born in March, 1852. Ventures and Adventures, PP. 37-40. It is hard to find the correct dates for these events. The Washington Historical Quarterly article (op. cit.) says they were married on May 13, 1851, which leaves some interesting questions unanswered.

5 Richard Meeker, the baby boy.

6 There was an H. H. Mead who inscribed his name on Independence Rock, Independence Rock, (op. cit.), P. 3.

7 Merrick Cheney. “Forward” to typescript of the diary, written by Warren Egbert, Knights Landing, California, January, 1935.

8 Winthrop P. Cheney, brother to Merrick. Ibid.

9 J. I. and C. E. Linn inscribed their names on Independence Rock on June 15, 1852. Independence Rock (op. cit), P. 33.

10 James McAuley, listed in the 1850 census of Henry County, Indiana, as fifty-six years old, a farmer, born in Ireland. The mother was Esther, forty-six years of age, born in New York.

11 If the 1850 census was correct, James McAuley would have been fifty-eight in 1852.