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Designers are listed by surname, e.g. Cardin, Pierre. Their companies are listed by the full company names, e.g. Pierre Cardin company. GDV stands for Grand Divertissement à Versailles.
Academy Awards, as fashion show
Adrian
Aeffe conglomerate
Agins, Teri
American clients of haute couture
buying American copies
American designers
fashion shows of
influence of French design on
in Paris
American designers at GDV
competition among
rehearsals of
after Versailles, longterm outcomes
American fashion
of the 1950s
of the 1980s and 1990s
of the 2000s (contemporary)
at the GDV
hope in, for social betterment
joie de vivre of
promotion of (1960s)
American fashion industry
1900–1950
1950s and 60s, era of copies
1960s
1970s
contemporary, size and revenues of
The American Look (Lord & Taylor)
Anna Miller and Co.
Anne Klein and Co.
fate of brand
Ann Taylor company
anti-Semitism
Apollo Theater
Arab oil embargo
Araque, Carla
Archs, Estrella
Arden, Elizabeth
Armani, Giorgio
Arnault, Bernard
Ast, Pat
Auchincloss, Lily
Baker, Josephine
Balenciaga, Cristobal. See also Cristobal Balenciaga company
Balmain, Pierre
Banks, Jeffrey
Banks, Tyra
Barrault, Jean-Louis
Barrie, Scott
Bayou, Bradley
Beard, Peter
Beatrice Foods
beautiful women
being one, as role
white, as default standard
Beckford, Tyson
Beene, Geoffrey
Berenson, Marisa
Bergdorf Goodman store
Basic Black show
Bergé, Pierre
Berghauer, Henry
Berkson, Seymour
Bettencourt, Liliane
Beyoncé
Bill Blass Ltd.
fate of brand
founding of
revenues
Birkin, Jane
Bis, Dorothée
Bismarck, Mona (née Strader)
Bjornson, Karen
background
career
at the GDV
later life
modeling style
quoted
social world
Black and White Ball (Capote’s)
Black Beauty agency
black designers
Black Girls Coalition
“black is beautiful”
black models
appreciation for
declining popularity of, in the 2000s
at the GDV
history of
male
need to be more than beautiful
runway style of
success of, in the 1970s
Black Power movement
blacks (African-Americans)
designers. See black designers
models. See black models
black-tie soirees
Blair, Billie
background
discovered by Tom Fallon
at the GDV
later life
meeting Josephine Baker
modeling style
quoted
Blair, Catherine “Deeda” (née Gerlach)
Blass, Bill
background
career
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
chosen for GDV
competition with other designers at the GDV
death of
influenced by the French
influence on French
later life
models used by
own choreographer
planning the GDV
presentation at the GDV
quoted
social world
after Versailles
at Versailles
See also Bill Blass Ltd.
Bloomingdale, Betsy
Bocher, Main Rousseau (Mainbocher). See also Mainbocher company
Bohan, Marc
background
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
chosen for GDV
at Christian Dior company
contribution to French fashion
presentation at the GDV
at Versailles
Bolen, Alex
Bolen, Eliza Reed
“Bonjour, Paris” (song)
Bonwit Teller
Bory, Edmond
Boussac textile company
Brazilian models
Breslau, Bobby
Brice, Jennifer
background
later life
Brissac, Duchess of
Brooks, Donald
Brown v. Board of Education
Buck, Genevieve
Bündchen, Gisele
Burrows, Stephen
background
at Basic Black at Bergdorf’s show
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
chosen for GDV
clothing
comebacks attempted
influence of
later life
meeting Josephine Baker
models used by
own choreographer
at party after the GDV
planning the GDV
presentation at the GDV
socializing
Stephen B. fragrance of
successful in fashion
after Versailles
at Versailles
Versailles’s influence on
Burstell, Ed
Cabaret (film)
Callins, Jothan
Campbell, Naomi
Capote, Truman
Capucine
Cardin, Pierre
background
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
chosen for GDV
contribution to French fashion
copies of
later life
presentation at the GDV
at Versailles
Carnegie, Hattie
Carrousel du Louvre, Paris
Carson Pirie Scott store
Cassini, Oleg
Castelbajac, Jean-Charles de
Catroux, Betty
caution (deposit)
Céline company
Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode
Chanel, Gabrielle “Coco”
Chanel company
Charles, Ray
Chicago Tribune
Chinn, Alva
background
career
at the GDV
later life
meeting Josephine Baker
social world
Christian Dior company
American office of
clients of
clothing
copies of
fate of brand
influence on American design
models used by
at Versailles
Church, Dorothea Towles
civil rights movement
Claiborne, Liz
Clark, Drs. Mamie and Kenneth
Cleveland, Pat
background
career
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
connection to Burrows
at the GDV
later life
modeling style
socializing
Cloud, Barbara
C. Mendes firm
Combs, Sean (aka Puff Daddy)
Comme des Garçons
confections (French)
copyright protection
Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
annual gala
luncheon celebrating black models at the GDV (2011 event)
Versailles 1973: American Fashion on the World Stage (1993 show)
Coty Awards
Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)
Courrèges, André
couturiers (dressmakers)
Crazy Horse cabaret
Créateurs & Industriels
Cristobal Balenciaga company
closing of
copies of
Cronkite, Walter
Cunningham, Bill
Daché, Lilly
Daigre, Jean-François
The Damned (film)
Darden, Norma Jean
background
at the GDV
later life
Darrieux, Danielle
Dash, Charlene
background
at the GDV
later life
décolletage
de Gaulle, Charles
de la Renta, Françoise
at the GDV
de la Renta, Oscar
background
career
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
chosen for GDV
competition with other designers at the GDV
design for European companies
fashion success
influenced by the French
influence on French
later life
meeting Josephine Baker
models used by
organizing the GDV
own choreographer
presentation at the GDV
quoted
socializing
after Versailles
at Versailles
Dell’Olio, Louis
de Natale, Guido
Deneuve, Catherine
department stores, American
Derby, Jane
designers
American. See American designers
artistic nature of
black. See black designers
French. See French designers
increasing prestige of
nationality of
personality of
publicists for
women
Detroit, Michigan
Detroit Free Press
diamond jewelry
Dior, Christian
copies of
death of
influence of
New Look
presentation at the GDV (by Marc Bohan)
promotion in U.S.
DiPasalegne, Carol
disco
“Discover America First”
Donovan, Carrie
Dorsey, Hebe
drug use
Dugan, Bill
Duke, Randolph
Dunn, Jourdan
Ebony Fashion Fair
Ebony magazine
Eisenhower, Mamie
Elizabeth Arden company
Elizabeth II, Queen
Elle magazine
Ellen Harth agency
Elsa Schiaparelli
Elura wigs
Emanuel Ungaro company
atelier
clothing
decline of
Environmental Protection Agency
Equal Rights Amendment
Eugénie, Empress
Eula, Joe
at the GDV
planning the GDV
set design for the GDV
social world
Evange, Linda
exchange rates (dollar:franc)
Fairchild, John
Fallon, Tom
background
backstage at the GDV
at the GDV
own choreographer for Bill Blass
planning the GDV
quoted
rehearsing for the GDV
fashion
in the 1970s (disco)
as entertainment
as escape
French vs. American, battle of
future of, at the GDV
importance of, defining social decorum and status
and racial harmony
role of, as tribal communication
starlets wearing
fashion illustration
fashion industry
in 1973
American mass production
changes in, after Versailles
global reach of
popular culture influences on
See also American fashion industry; French fashion industry
Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT)
Fashion Press Week
fashion shows
of American designers
in American stores
of black designers
de facto (Academy Awards; presidential inaugurations)
haute couture
Lambert’s idea for one at Versailles
ready-to-wear (1971)
Fashion Week
Fayard, Jean
Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Coutouriers et des Créateurs de Mode
Feldkamp, Phyllis
Ferré, Gianfranco
Ferro, Shirley
Fire Island, New York
Fischelis, Nicole
fittings (in haute couture)
Foray, Betty
Ford, Eileen
Ford, Tom
Ford Model Agency
France
clothing industry
influence and power of, in 19th century
place of French fashion in
social turmoil in (1968)
Franklin Spear firm
French designers
at the GDV
influence on American designers
after Versailles, effect of
French fashion
dominance of, historically
at the GDV
French fashion industry
contemporary, lessened place of haute couture in
industrialization of, after World War II
power of unions in
regulations affecting
Funny Face (film)
Furstenberg, Diane von
Gagelin company
Galanos, James
Galliano, John
Garland, Judy
Garment District, New York
gay life
GDV. See Grand Divertissement à Versailles (fashion show)
Gérard Pipart company
Gimbel, Adam
Giscard d’Estaing, Valérie-Anne
Givenchy, Hubert de
background
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
chosen for GDV
clients of
contribution to French fashion
influenced by Americans
models used by
organizing the GDV
presentation at the GDV
quoted
retirement
at Versailles
See also Hubert de Givenchy company
Glamour magazine
going-out companions
Golbin, Pamela
Goldman, Ikram
Goodman, Eddie
Goodman, Lorna Bade
Goss, Peter
Grace, Princess of Monaco
Grand Divertissement à Versailles (November 28, 1973)
EVENT
convening in Paris
evening of the show
high society guests of
midnight buffet afterward
photography of, limited
FINANCING
contributions required of designers
cost of
finance committee
net receipts
ticket price
INFLUENCE
aftermath of
American triumph at
as a “battle” between American and French designers
criticisms of unseemliness of
French media’s attitude toward
memories of
success in exalting individual over the group
PLANNING
choosing the American contingent
organizational meetings of the Americans
organizational meetings of the French
STAGING
American models at
American segment of
American set design
American staging of
choreography for
conservativism of French designers at
dress rehearsal
French segment of
French set design
length of presentations
models at
more Broadway musical than catwalk production
order of Americans’ shows at
set design, generally
Grand Trianon, Versailles
Green, Al
Greenberg, Marion
Grumbach, Didier
Gucci Group
Guest, C. Z.
Guinness, Gloria
Gunzburg, Baron Nicolas de
Haggins, Jon
Hale, Denise
Hale, Prentis Cobb
Hall, Kevan
Halston (Roy Halston Frowick)
background
bad behavior of
career
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
chosen for GDV
clothing
competition with other designers at the GDV
influence of
later life
loss of control of his brand
models used by
party at Maxim’s
planning the GDV
presentation at the GDV
social world
successful in fashion
after Versailles
at Versailles
Halston company/brand
clothing
fate of brand
success of
Halstonettes (models)
H&M
Hanson, Betty
Harden, Rosemary
Hardison, Bethann
and Burrows
career
at the GDV
later life
protests racism in modeling
quoted
social world
Hardison, Lee (Ameer Hasaan)
Harper’s Bazaar
haute couture
changes in, after World War II
changes in, in the sixties
clients of
copying of, by American manufacturers
disdain for sportswear
invention of
place in French culture
prices of
rivalry with ready-to-wear
selection and fitting process
shows
waning influence of
Hawes, Elizabeth
Henderson, Gordon
Henri Bendel store
Hepburn, Audrey
Herman, Stan
Higginsen, Vy
high society women
American and European
dress of
at the GDV
patronage of, sought for Versailles restoration
Hill, William
Holzer, Baby Jane
homoeroticism in advertising
House of Worth
Hubert de Givenchy company
clothing
Hyde, Nina
illustration, fashion
Iman (Iman Mohamed Abdulmajid)
Iman, Chanel (Chanel Iman Robinson)
Ingenue magazine
International Best-Dressed List
International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union
Irwin, John N., II
Israel
Jackson, Barbara
background
later life
Jacobs, Marc
Jacobson, Dr. Max (Dr. Feelgood)
Javits, Jacob
JCPenney
Jean Dessès company
Jeanmaire, Zizi
jersey (fabric)
Johnson, Beverly
Johnson, Claudia (Lady Bird)
Johnson, Eunice
Johnson, Lyndon B.
Johnson Publishing
Jones Apparel Group
Jourdan, Louis
Judgment at Paris wine tasting
Junior Sophisticates
Kaner, Joan
Karan, Donna
at Anne Klein
backstage at the GDV
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
contribution to fashion
at party after the GDV
quoted
Kasper, Herbert
Kebede, Liya
Kelly, Grace. See Grace, Princess of Monaco
Kelly, Patrick
Kempner, Nan
Kennedy, Jacqueline
Kennedy, John F.
Kenneth (Kenneth Battelle)
Kering
Kerner Report
Klein, Anne (Hannah Golofski)
background
breast cancer of
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
chosen for GDV
competition with other designers at GDV
death of
later life
models used by
planning the GDV
presentation at GDV
after Versailles
at Versailles
Klein, Ben
Klein, Calvin
Kline, Stuart
Koda, Harold
Kors, Michael
Kunz, Marji
labels in clothes
La Falaise, Loulou de
LaForce, James
Lagerfeld, Karl
Lambert, Eleanor
background
clients
designer shows at the Plaza Hotel
followup on the GDV
idea for GDV
organizing the GDV
promoting American fashion
quoted
socializing at Versailles
Langlade, Françoise de
Laroche, Guy
copies of
Lauren, Ralph
Lelong, Lucien
Le Relais-Plaza
Levitt, Simone
Lewis, Maybelle
licensing
Lieberfarb, Heidi
Life magazine
Lindblad, Gunilla
little black dress
Liz Claiborne company
Loewy, Viola
Lohan, Lindsay
Long, Timothy
Lopez, Antonio
Lord & Taylor store
Louis Vuitton company
Louis XIV
Love Unlimited Orchestra
Luther, Marylou
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton
Macdonald, Julien
Machado, China
Madame Grès
clothing by
Mademoiselle magazine
Mahoney, David
Mainbocher company, clothing
Maison Lemarié
Maison Lesage
Malraux, André
“mannequins” (models)
manufacturers, American
Marie Antoinette, Queen
Marshall Field company
Martin, Judith
Martin, Richard
Max Factor company
Maxim’s, Paris
Norton Simon company party at (November 26)
Max’s Kansas City
McCardell, Claire
McGee, Arthur
McMenamy, Kristen
McQueen, Alexander
media, news about blacks
Mele, Dreda
Mellon, Rachel “Bunny” Lambert
Messmer, Pierre
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Temple of Dendur
See also Costume Institute
Michael Kors Holdings Ltd.
Miller, John Robert
Minnelli, Liza
biography
invited to the GDV
morale building by, at Versailles
role in GDV
social world
at Versailles
Minnelli, Vincente
Mirabella, Grace
Miss Dior boutique
models
of 1970s compared to today’s
black. See black models
careers of
costume changes by
dresses first presented on live models (by Worth)
fees of
gawky, grumpy, grunge style
at the GDV. See models at the GDV
lack of diversity in
male
music with
print girls
racial categories of
runway walkers
singing, acting, and dancing by
walking hangar style
models at the GDV
influence of
later life
in Paris
monarchy, role in French fashion
Mondrian, Piet
Monsanto
Moore, Julianne
Moreau, Jeanne
Morera, Daniela
Mori, Frank
Moriarty, David
Morris, Bernadine
Moss, Kate
Moufarrige, Mounir
Ms. magazine
Muir, Jean
Murphy, Carolyn
Musée Pierre Cardin, Saint-Ouen
Museum of the City of New York, When Fashion Danced event (2013)
musk
NAACP
Nangle, Eleanor
Nanterre La Défense university
Napoleon III
National Advisory Commission on Civil Disorders
National Foundation on the Arts and the Humanities Act of 1965
Nemy, Enid
New Look (le Carolle)
Newman, Muriel
New York
artist scene
fashion industry in
Nilsson, Lars
Norell, Norman
Norman Norell company, clothing
North, Nancy
at the GDV
socializing
Norton Simon company
party at Maxim’s
nudity on stage
Nureyev, Rudolf
Obama, Michelle
O Boutique
Ohrbach’s department store
oil crisis of the 1970s
Oldham, Todd
Olowu, Duro
Oriental Ball (1969)
Osborne, Maxwell
Oscar de la Renta company
Owens, Rick
Paley, Barbara “Babe” Cushing Mortimer
Palmer, Alexandra
Paris
American designers in
design industry in
student riots of 1968
See also Versailles
Park, Merle
Parker, Sarah Jessica
parties, notable, of the time
Paul VI, Pope
Pearson, Rodney
Pelosi, Nancy
Peretti, Elsa
Perry, Lisa
Petit, Roland
Picasso, Paloma
Pierre Balmain company
clothing
Pierre Bergé‒Yves Saint Laurent Foundation
Pierre Cardin company
boutique
clothing
labels
Pilati, Stefano
the Pill
Plaza Athénée, Paris
Polo Ralph Lauren
Pompidou, Claude
Pompidou, Georges
Porter, Cole
Posen, Zac
presidential (U.S.) inauguration, as fashion show
Presley, Elvis
Proust, Marcel
Proust Ball (1971)
Puglisi, Fausto
Rabanne, Paco
race riots of 1968
racial relations
in the 1970s
racial stereotypes
Radziwill, Princess Lee
Ralph Lauren company
Rampling, Charlotte
Randal, Jonathan
Rauschenberg, Robert
ready-to-wear clothing
American
beginning of, in France
vs. haute couture
shown at the GDV
Reagan, Nancy
Reagan, Ronald
Redé, Baron de (Alexis von Rosenberg)
Reese, Tracy
Reeves, Martha, and the Vandellas
Reig, Ben
Rentner, Maurice
Revillon, clothing
Revlon
Revson, Charles
Revson, Lyn
Ribes, Jacqueline de
Ricci, Nina
Rive Gauche boutique
Robert Piguet company
Robinson, Patrick
Rochas, Hélène
Rockefeller, Nelson
Roe v. Wade
Rogers, Desirée
Rosenstein, Nettie
Rothschild, Guy de
Rothschild, Marie-Hélène de
background
financing the GDV
French designers at GDV approved by
organizing the GDV
at party at Versailles after the GDV
social world of
Royal Opera House at Versailles, known as the Théâtre Gabriel
American designers’ and models’ first days at
coldness and inhospitableness of
fashion show (1973). See Grand Divertissement à Versailles
history and description
Royer, Chris
Rubenstein, Matthew “Chip”
Rubenstein, Roz
Rucci, Ralph
Ruffin, Clovis
runway shows
RuPaul
Ryan, Didi
Ryan, John Barry
Rybar, Valerian
Rykiel, Sonia
Safire, William
Saint Laurent, Yves
background
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
chosen for GDV
early career
influence of
influenced by Americans
later life
models used by
organizing the GDV
position in French fashion
presentation at GDV
ready-to-wear by
socializing of
at Versailles
See also Yves Saint Laurent company
Saks Fifth Avenue
Saltzman, Ellin
Salvatore Ferragamo Spa
Sandberg, Sheryl
Sanders, Dirk
Saunders, Ramona
background
later life
Scandinavian models
Scherer, Jean-Louis
Schiano, Marina
Schiaparelli, Elsa
Schlumberger, São
Schumacher, Joel
Schwab, Marios
Scorpio Rising (film)
segregation
separates
Seventh Avenue, New York
sexual freedom/revolution
sexual identity
Shaver, Dorothy
Shaw, Ben
Shelton, Patricia
Shepherd, Cybill
Sheppard, Eugenia
Shields, Brooke
Shriver, Eunice Kennedy
Shriver, Sargent
Silva, Kathy
Simons, Raf
Simpson, Adele
Simpson, Annette
Simpson, Wallis (Duchess of Windsor). See also Windsor, Duchess of
Sims, Naomi
A Single Man (film)
sizes
petite
slender
vanity
sketch artists
Slimane, Hedi
Slim Line
Slowik, Steven
Smalls, Joan
Smaltz, Audrey
Smith, Jaclyn
Smith, Jean Kennedy
Smith, Willi
smoking, le
Smoot, Julianna
Som, Peter
soul food
Sozzani, Franca
Sports Illustrated, swimsuit-cover models
sportswear
disdain for
Stein, Frances Patiky
Stephan Burrows company
clothing
fate of brand
“Stephen Burrows’ World” shop
stepping and step teams
Stone, Sly
Studio 54
Stutz, Geraldine
stylists (French)
Sui, Anna
Summers, Barbara
Sycamore Partners
Sylvania color televisions, ad for
Tagliapietra, Costello
Taki, Tomio
Takihyo company
Taponier, Renée
Target
Team Vicious
Tennant, Stella
Théâtre de l’Odéon
Théâtre Gabriel. See Royal Opera House at Versailles
The Limited Inc.
Thomass, Chantal
Thompson, Kay
choreographer for Americans in GVD
planning the GDV
socializing
at Versailles
Tisci, Riccardo
Toledo, Isabel
Torres, Hector
Tracy, Charles
Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire
Trigère, Pauline
Turlington, Christy
Twain, Mark, on Versailles
Tyler, Richard
Ultrasuede
Ungaro, Emanuel
background
celebrated at 2011 luncheon
chosen for GDV
clients of
contribution to French fashion
later life
presentation at the GDV
at Versailles
See also Emanuel Ungaro company
unions
American
French
unisex
Valençay, Château de
Valentino, copies of
Van Cleef & Arpels
van der Kemp, Florence (née Harris)
van der Kemp, Gérald
pre-GVD party given by
van Dongen, Kees
Van Peebles, Melvin
van Ravenstein, Anna
Vass, Joan
vendeuses (saleswomen)
Venice, Italy
Vernet, Marie
Versailles, Palace of
curator of
fashion show (1973). See Grand Divertissement à Versailles
restoration and upkeep of
van der Kemp’s apartment at
Versailles Foundation
Vietnam War
Vionnet, Madeleine
Vogue (American) magazine
Vogue (French) magazine
Vogue Italia
Vollbracht, Michael
Vreeland, Diana
Wahlberg, Mark
Wang, Alexander
Warhol, WAndy
Warsuma, Amina
background
at the GDV
later life
meeting Josephine Baker
Washington Post
Webb, Veronica
Weinberg, Chester
Welch, Raquel
West, Kanye
Weston, Jon
White, Barry
White, Renauld
White House
Whitney, Betsey Cushing Roosevelt
Wilhelmina Models
Wilkerson, Edward
Williams, Luretha
Windsor, Duchess of
Windsor, Duke of
Wintour, Anna
Wolfe, Tom
women
with careers, dress preferences of
designers
distrust of fashion
freedom for, in clothes
high-society. See high society women
pants-wearing by
in the workplace
Women’s Wear Daily
World War II
Worth, Charles Frederick
Wyatt, Lynn
Yom Kippur War (1973)
Yves Saint Laurent company
clothing
Hommage aux Années 40 collection
ready-to-wear
Zanini, Marco
Zipkin, Jerry
Zoe, Rachel
Zuckerman, Ben