Five: Apostasy

  1. Grumbach, 2012.

  2. Ibid.

  3. Marylou Luther, New York telephone interview, 1998.

  4. Bergé, 2013.

  5. Marc Bohan, e-mail interview, 2013.

  6. Teri Agins, The End of Fashion (New York: William Morrow and Company, 1999), p. 32.

  7. Nina S. Hyde, “Pierre Cardin,” Washington Post, September 11, 1978.

  8. Musée Pierre Cardin, permanent exhibition, Saint-Ouen, France, 2013.

  9. Renée Taponier, Saint-Ouen interview at the Musée Pierre Cardin, 2013.

10. Grumbach, 2012.

11. Taponier, 2013.

12. Givenchy, 2013.

13. Ibid.

14. Golbin, 2012.

15. Ibid.

16. Stein, 2012.

17. Marian Christy, “Is Paris Fashion Dying?” Boston Globe, September 4, 1973.

18. Federal Reserve Bank of St. Louis, “France/U.S. Foreign Exchange Rate (Discontinued Series),” French Franc to One U.S. Dollar, March 8, 2006, http://research.stlouisfed.org/fred2/data/EXFRUS.txt.

19. Jimmy Pihet, communication manager of the Fédération Française de la Couture, Paris, e-mail interview, 2013.

20. Patricia Shelton, “Paris Threat Worries U.S. Dressmakers,” Christian Science Monitor, April 24, 1971.

21. Valentine Lawford, “Versailles, Its Persuasive Curator,” Vogue, August 1, 1967.

22. Ibid.

23. Ibid.

24. Paul Lewis, “Gerald Van der Kemp, 89, Versailles’ Restorer,” New York Times, January 15, 2002.

25. Mary Blume, “The Man Who Gave Versailles Back to the French,” Los Angeles Times, October 26, 1975.

26. Valentine Lawford, “A Fresh Wind Through Versailles,” Vogue, August 1, 1967.

27. Blair, 2013.

28. Ibid.

29. Nina S. Hyde, “At Home … In Versailles,” Washington Post, January 5, 1978.

30. Lawford, “Versailles, Its Persuasive Curator.”

31. Hyde, “At Home … In Versailles.”

32. Blair, 2013.

33. Blume, “The Man Who Gave Versailles Back to the French.”

34. Enid Nemy, “C. Z. Guest, Society Royalty, Dies at 83,” New York Times, November 9, 2003.

35. Blair, 2013.

36. Hugo Vickers, “Obituary: Marie-Hélène de Rothschild,” The Independent, March 12, 1996.

37. Mele, 2012.

38. Mele, 2012.

39. Pat McColl, “Designer Finds New Home at Hartnell,” Los Angeles Times, February 1, 1991.

40. Blair, 2013.

41. Marian Christy, “Marc Bohan of Dior Still Favors the Starkly Classic,” Reading Eagle, October 15, 1971.

42. Christy, “Marc Bohan of Dior Still Favors the Starkly Classic.”

43. Bohan, 2013.

44. Ibid.

45. Christy, “Marc Bohan of Dior Still Favors the Starkly Classic.”

46. Henry Berghauer, Paris interview at his home, 2012.

47. Henry Berghauer, Paris interview at Café Flore, 2012.

48. Berghauer, his home, 2012.

49. Agins, The End of Fashion, p. 62.

50. Grace Mirabella, In and Out of Vogue (New York: Doubleday, 1995), p. 147.

51. Nina S. Hyde, “Ungaro: The Influence of Low Flash,” Washington Post, April 22, 1973.

52. Ibid.

53. Grace Mirabella, New York telephone interview, 2013.

54. “Yves Sparks Elegant Reign of Terror,” Women’s Wear Daily, August 5, 1966.

55. Bergé, 2013.

Six: Disco Balls and Divas

  1. Mitra Toossi, “A Century of Change: The U.S. Labor Force, 1950–2050,” Monthly Labor Review, May 2002.

  2. As I interviewed those who lived at full throttle during the 1970s, many of them shared a similarly blurred memory of the decade. Whether it was designer Diane von Furstenberg, model Bethann Hardison, or Stephen Burrows, they had the ability to recall their emotional pleasures, but the specifics—even the broad strokes—were typically lost.

  3. Lisa Robinson, “Boogie Nights,” Vanity Fair, February 2010.

  4. Eric Wilson, “Naomi Sims, 61, Pioneering Cover Girl, Is Dead,” New York Times, August 3, 2009.

  5. Eugenia Sheppard, “Americans in Paris,” Los Angeles Times, November 29, 1973.

  6. De la Renta, 2011.

  7. Gross & Rottman, Halston: An American Original, p. 19.

  8. Stein, 2012.

  9. Eleanor Lambert, “Anne Klein press release, November 1973,” Nina Hyde Collection, Special Collections and FIT Archives, Gladys Marcus Library, Goodman Resource Center, Fashion Institute of Technology–SUNY.

10. De la Renta, 2011.

11. Burrows, 2011.

Seven: Stephen Burrows’s World

  1. Burrows, 2011.

  2. Ibid.

  3. Jean Butler, “Burrows Is Back with a Little Help from His Friends,” New York Times, June 5, 1977.

  4. Burrows, 2011.

  5. Stephen Burrows, New York interview in the office of his licensing associate, 2013.

  6. Higginsen, 1999.

  7. Charles Tracy, New York interview in his home, 2013.

  8. Ibid.

  9. Ibid.

10. “Vogue’s Own Boutique of Suggestions, Finds and Observations,” Vogue, April 15, 1969.

11. Burrows, 2011.

12. Ginia Bellafante, “A Fallen Star of the 70s Is Back in the Business,” New York Times, January 1, 2002.

13. Nina S. Hyde, “With Plans ‘to Dress the World,’” Washington Post, November 12, 1973.

14. Eric Wilson, “Geraldine Stutz Dies at 80; Headed Bendel for 29 Years,” New York Times, April 9, 2005.

15. Shirley Clurman, “Gerry Stutz Is Hardly Just Window Dressing at Bendel’s—She Owns the Store,” People, October 13, 1980.

16. Kaner, 2013.

17. Marion Greenberg, New York telephone interview, 2013.

18. Kaner, 2013.

19. Burrows, 2011.

20. Herman, 2012.

21. Butler, “Stephen Burrows Is Back with a Little Help from His Friends.”

22. Audrey Smaltz, New York telephone interview, 2013.

23. Roz Rubenstein-Johnson, interview transcript from John Robert Miller, 1999.

24. No author, “12 U.S. Designers Get Fashion Awards,” Wilmington Star-News, October 18, 1973.

25. Smaltz, 2013.

26. Ibid.

27. Ibid.

28. Ibid.

29. Hyde, “With Plans ‘to Dress the World.’”

30. Burrows, 2011.

31. Hyde, “With Plans ‘to Dress the World.’”

32. Burrows, 2011.