Eight: Insecurity and Egos

  1. De la Renta, 2011.

  2. Burrows, 2011.

  3. De la Renta, 2011.

  4. Eleanor Lambert, “Monsanto memo,” Eleanor Lambert Collection, Special Collections and FIT Archives, Gladys Marcus Library, Goodman Resource Center, Fashion Institute of Technology–SUNY.

  5. Charlene Dash, New York telephone interview, 2013.

  6. Billie Blair, Toledo interview at the Toledo Museum of Art, 2011.

  7. Sheppard, “Americans in Paris.”

  8. Karen Bjornson-Macdonald, Connecticut telephone interview, 2013.

  9. De la Renta, 2011.

10. Ibid.

11. Ibid.

12. Sheppard, “Americans in Paris.”

13. Jonathan C. Randal, “Let Them Eat Cake and Drink Chateau Lafite,” Washington Post, November 30, 1973.

14. Enid Nemy, New York telephone interview, 2013.

15. “Versailles File,” Eleanor Lambert Collection, Special Collections and FIT Archives, Gladys Marcus Library, Goodman Resource Center, Fashion Institute of Technology–SUNY.

Nine: Muses, Marijuana, and Mayhem

  1. Tom Fallon, New York telephone interview, 2012.

  2. Barbara Summers, New York telephone interview, 2013.

  3. Ibid.

  4. Judith Martin, “New High Fashion Trend Is to the Black Model,” Washington Post, October 27, 1968.

  5. Blair, 2011.

  6. Ibid.

  7. Billie Blair, Defiance telephone interview, 2013.

  8. Blair, 2011.

  9. Ibid.

10. Ibid.

11. Fallon, 2012.

12. Ibid.

13. Enid Nemy, “Jerry Zipkin, Who Lunched and Listened, Is Dead at 80,” New York Times, June 9, 1995.

14. Fallon, 2012.

15. Ibid.

16. Ibid.

17. Ibid.

18. Not much has changed in the contemporary American industry. Models become favorites because of designers’ lemminglike habits, fear of missing out, and general insecurities. Everyone always wants the hot girl who is often only hot because everyone wants her.

19. Blair, 2011.

20. De la Renta, 2011.

21. Bethann Hardison, New York interview in her apartment, 2011.

22. Ibid.

23. Ibid.

24. Ibid.

25. Bjornson-Macdonald, 2013.

26. Pat Cleveland, New Jersey telephone interview, 2013.

27. Blair, 2011.

28. Amina Warsuma, Los Angeles telephone interview, 2012.

29. Ibid.

30. Ibid.

31. Anne-Marie Schiro, “Scott Barrie Is Dead; Designer, 52, Made Jersey Matte Dresses,” New York Times, June 11, 1993.

32. Warsuma, 2012.

33. Ibid.

34. Ibid.

35. Charlene Dash, New York telephone interview, 2013.

36. Ibid.

37. Eric Wilson, “Dorothea T. Church, 83, Pioneering Model, Dies,” New York Times, July 23, 2006.

38. Norma Jean Darden, New York telephone interview, 2013.

39. Ibid.

40. Ibid.

41. Marian Christy, “Alva Chinn’s Journey,” Boston Globe, June 12, 1983.

42. Alva Chinn, New York telephone interview, 2013.

43. Ibid.

44. Carol DiPasalegne served as commentator for Ebony Fashion Fair from 1965 to 1967. She also worked as a United Airlines flight attendant and a nightclub singer, performing under the name Carol Denmark. According to a 1988 story in the Chicago Tribune, upon DiPasalegne’s death on April 27, 1982, her husband at the time, Herbert Cammon, was accused of murdering her to collect a $250,000 life insurance policy. The couple had had a two-month courtship and had been married only sixteen days when she was found strangled and stabbed in the face twenty times. The life insurance policy had been taken out three days before her death. A 1984 trial ended in a hung jury. In 1988, Cammon was acquitted after a bench trial before a Cook County Criminal Court judge. As a motive, prosecutors argued that Cammon was gay and had been living with a male roommate for five years prior to his marriage to DiPasalegne and moved back immediately after her death.

45. Barbara Jackson, phone interview, 2014.

46. Ibid.

47. Anne-Marie Schiro, “Eugenia Sheppard, Fashion Columnist, Dies,” New York Times, November 12, 1984.

48. Jennifer Brice, Atlanta telephone interview, 2013.

49. Nina S. Hyde, “A Fashionable Kind of Benefit,” Washington Post, November 15, 1973.

50. Jennifer Brice, Washington interview at the Jefferson Hotel, 2013.

51. Ibid.

52. Ibid.

53. Ibid.

54. Ibid.

55. Dash, 2013.

56. Warsuma, 2012.

57. Emily Nussbaum, “Liza Must Go On,” New York magazine, November 30, 2008.

58. Sam Irvin, Kay Thompson: From Funny Face to Eloise (New York: Simon & Schuster, 2010), e-book.

59. Irvin, Kay Thompson, e-book.

60. Nussbaum, “Liza Must Go On.”

61. Irvin, Kay Thompson, e-book.

62. Darden, 2013.

63. Gross and Rottman, Halston: An American Original, p. 21.

64. Brice, Atlanta telephone interview, 2013.

65. Irvin, Kay Thompson, e-book.

66. Marie-Antoinette Esterhazy, column, Women’s Wear Daily, November 26, 1973.

67. Dash, 2013.

68. Blair, 2011.

69. Warsuma, 2012.

70. Marie-Antoinette Esterhazy, November 26, 1973.

71. Jonathan C. Randal, “Glad Rags Rite,” Washington Post, November 28, 1973.

72. Randal, “Glad Rags Rite.”

73. Dash, 2013.

74. Marie-Antoinette Esterhazy, November 26, 1973.

75. Enid Nemy, “Paris Is in a Tizzy, but Then It’s Not Just Another Fashion Show,” New York Times, November 28, 1973.

76. Nemy, “Paris Is in a Tizzy, but Then It’s Not Just Another Fashion Show.”

Ten: Waiting

  1. Donna Karan, Washington interview at Reagan National Airport, 2011.

  2. Warsuma, 2012.

  3. In 2013, Sheryl Sandberg, the chief operating officer of Facebook, published Lean In: Women, Work, and the Will to Lead. Its signature premise is that regardless of the hurdles women encounter in the workplace, excuses don’t help the situation. Instead, they should believe in themselves and “lean in” to the action.

  4. Louis Dell’Olio, New York telephone interview, 2013.

  5. Karan, 2011.

  6. Hardison, 2011.

  7. Karan, 2011.

  8. Jennifer Brice, Jefferson Hotel, 2013.

  9. Sam Irvin, Kay Thompson, e-book.

10. Pat McColl, “Palace Coup,” New York Times, August 19, 2001.

11. Burrows, 2011.

12. Ibid.

13. Hardison, 2011.

14. Pat McColl, “Palace Coup.”

15. Nemy, “Paris Is in a Tizzy, but Then It’s Not Just Another Fashion Show.”

16. Nemy, 2013.

17. Bellafante, “A Fallen Star of the 70s Is Back in the Business.”

18. McColl, “Palace Coup.”

19. Randal, “Glad Rags Rite.”

20. McColl, “Palace Coup.”

21. Randal, “Glad Rags Rite.”

22. Alan Riding, “Jean-Louis Barrault, 83, Director and Actor in the French Theater,” New York Times, January 23, 1994.

23. John Calder, “Obituary: Jean-Louis Barrault,” The Independent, January 24, 1994.

24. Tracy, 2013.

25. Warsuma, 2012.

26. De la Renta, 2011.

27. Warsuma, 2012.

28. No author, “Louis XIV, We Are Here,” Newsweek, December 10, 1973.

29. “Rybar & Daigre—Decorative Magicians,” Christie’s press release, March 24, 2003.

30. Christopher Petkanas, “Fabulous Dead People: Alexis, Baron de Redé,” New York Times, April 8, 2011.

31. Alexis de Rede, Alexis: The Memoirs of the Baron de Redé (Dovecote Press: 2005), excerpt at http://scalaregia.blogspot.com/2009/01/oriental-ball-in-1969-has-been.html

32. Petkanas, “Fabulous Dead People: Alexis, Baron de Redé.”

33. De Rede, Alexis: The Memoirs of the Baron de Redé.

34. Enid Nemy, “Paris Is in a Tizzy, but Then It’s Not Just Another Fashion Show.”

35. Rodney Pearson, California telephone interview, 2013.

36. Ibid.

37. Karan, 2011.

38. Sam Irvin, Kay Thompson, e-book.

39. Fallon, 2011.

40. Nemy, 2013.

41. Bjornson-Macdonald, 2013.

42. Tracy, 2013.

43. De la Renta, 2011.

44. Fallon, 2011.

45. Ibid.

46. Nemy, 2013.

47. “Great Day,” by Edward Eliscu, Billy Rose, and Vincent Youmans, 1929.

48. Mary Tannen, “Inside Whiff; Mink Dew,” New York Times, February 25, 2001.

49. Lynn Hirschberg, “Lyn’s Lost World,” W, January 2012.

50. Eugenia Sheppard, “Parties Precede Paris Shows,” Los Angeles Times, November 29, 1973.

51. Carolyne Zinko, “Double Trouble: High Anxiety in High Society?” San Francisco Chronicle, April 15, 2007.

52. Pat Shelton, Shreveport, Louisiana telephone interview, 2011.