Table Mountain and the City Bowl

Table Mountain, the towering massif that announced Cape Town to seafarers for centuries, dominates the peninsula, and its flat top can be recognized from miles away. The 1086m-high rock formation, its dramatic cliffs and eroded gorges overlooking all walks of local life, is a Mother City icon and one of the world’s great physical symbols. The mountain informs Cape lore, from the “tablecloth” – the cloud blanketing the plateau and cascading down the sides – to the tale of Van Hunks, who created that cloud with his pipe. Climbing the slopes of Table Mountain, Lion’s Head and Signal Hill, the desirable residential suburbs of Vredehoek, Oranjezicht, Gardens and Tamboerskloof form the upper edge of the City Bowl. This natural amphitheatre is where many tourists stay, attracted by the harbour views, numerous restaurants, and easy access to the city centre, Waterfront and Table Mountain itself.

Table Mountain

The north face of Table Mountain overlooks the city centre, flanked by the distinct formations of Lion’s Head and Signal Hill to the west and Devil’s Peak to the east. A series of gable-like formations known as the Twelve Apostles makes up the mountain’s drier west face and the southwest face towers over Hout Bay. The forested east, looming over the southern suburbs, gets the most rain.

The mountain is a wilderness where you’ll find wildlife and 1400 species of flora, while indigenous mammals include baboons, dassies (see box below) and porcupines. No wonder then that Table Mountain was voted one of the world’s New Seven Wonders of Nature in 2011, along with the Amazon and Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay.

Getting up and down the mountain can be a doddle, via the highly popular cable car, though walking up will give you a greater sense of achievement; if you’re up to the challenge, it’s best to go on a guided hike.

Table Mountain Aerial Cableway

Lower Cableway Station, Tafelberg Rd • Daily (every 10–15min): Jan & Dec 8am–8.30pm; Feb 8am–8pm; March 8am–7.30pm; April 8am–7pm; May–Aug 8.30am–6pm; Sept & Oct 8.30am–7pm; Nov 8.30am–8.30pm • Adults one-way R135, return R255; children 4–17 one-way R65, return R125; return tickets half price after 6pm Nov to mid-Dec & Jan–Feb • Last car up departs 1hr before last car down; operations can be disrupted by bad weather or maintenance work; for information on current schedules call 021 424 8181, or check tablemountain.net

The highly popular cable car offers dizzying views across town to Table Bay and the Atlantic. The state-of-the-art Swiss system completes a 360-degree rotation during the five-minute journey, giving passengers a full panorama. At the top, if you don’t want to walk far, you can wander the concrete paths stopping at the viewpoints; grab a meal or beer in the cafeteria (open from 8am until 30mins before the last car down); and post jealousy-inducing photos in the free Wi-Fi Lounge. The upper-station area is of course one of the city’s best spots to watch the sun go down.

Note that people start queuing early and finish late in summer, and weekends and public holidays tend to be very busy. If you’re unlucky, you could stand in line for an hour or more, but you can shorten your queuing time by buying your ticket online. Additionally, buy an afternoon ticket, valid from 1pm, when the Cableway is quieter; or an online-only Early Access ticket (R375 return), available for travel from 7.30am, thirty minutes before the Cableway’s normal opening time, from mid-December to mid-January.

Dassies

The outsized fluffy guinea pigs you’ll encounter at the top of Table Mountain are dassies or rock hyraxes (Procavia capensis) which, despite their appearance, aren’t rodents at all, but the closest living relatives of elephants. Pronounced like “dusty” without the “t”, their name is the Afrikaans version of dasje, the nickname coined by the Dutch settlers, which means “little badger”. Dassies have poor body temperature control and, like reptiles, rely on shelter against both hot sunlight and the cold. They wake up sluggish and seek out rocks where they can catch the sun in the early morning – one of the best times to look out for them. One adult stands sentry against predators and issues a low-pitched warning cry in response to a threat.

Dassies are very widely distributed, having thrived in South Africa with the elimination of predators, and can be found in suitably rocky habitats all over the country. They live in colonies consisting of a dominant male and eight or more related females and their offspring.

Climbs and walks

Table Mountain, Lion’s Head and Signal Hill (aka the Lion’s Rump) all offer gorgeous hikes. There are hundreds of possible walks and climbs on its slopes, but unless you’re going with a knowledgeable guide, it’s recommended that you attempt one of the routes outlined below, which are the simplest. Every year the mountain takes its toll of lives; it may look sunny and clear when you leave, but conditions at the top could be very different – the strong sun and Cape Town’s infamous winds can be brutal, and mists that obscure the path can descend quickly. Plan well and keep safe, and you will be rewarded with a worthwhile hike offering spectacular views.

Signal Hill and Lion’s Head

From the roundabout at the top of Kloof Nek – the saddle between Table Mountain and Lion’s Head, over which Kloof Nek Road runs to reach the Atlantic seaboard – the 3.5km Signal Hill Road runs the length of the Signal Hill ridge to a car park and lookout at the northern end, with good views over Table Bay and the city.

A cannon was formerly used for sending signals to ships at anchor in the bay, and the Noon Gun, still fired precisely at noon by the South African Navy, sends a thunderous rumble through the Bo-Kaap and city centre below. Hilltop cannons were fired from here to the Winelands to inform farmers that ships requiring their produce were docking; the Noon Gun was subsequently used for vessels to set their chronometers – and burghers to set their watches.

Halfway along Signal Hill Road, you’ll see a sacred Islamic kramat (shrine), one of several dotted around the peninsula, which are said to protect the city.

You can also walk up Lion’s Head, a hike that seems to bring out half the population of Cape Town every full moon. It’s a local ritual, not just for the beautiful nocturnal views of the city below and the silvery procession of head torches snaking up the mountain, but for the camaraderie and the novelty of climbing the peak after dark.

One of the attractions of this two-kilometre ascent is that, as you spiral up around the mountain, there are constantly changing views of the city and the ocean. You can start the climb about 650m along Signal Hill Road from Kloof Nek, or at the kramat. The climb is relatively easy and manageable for all levels, as long as you leave enough time to descend, and it takes on average an hour and a half one-way. The hike is mostly on a track, followed by a path with minor rock scrambling and a ladder at one point, as well as chains to assist hikers up a short vertical ascent (a longer diversion bypasses the chains).

Be warned that Lion’s Head gets extremely busy on and around full moon; the nights before and after are slightly quieter. Take a torch and watch your step at the top, where the ascent becomes steeper and rockier. Walk with others if possible, as muggings have occurred even on these busy nights.

Table Mountain safety

• Inform someone that you’re going up the mountain; tell them your route, when you’re leaving and when you expect to be back.

• Don’t go up alone. As well as general mountain-safety issues (particularly for less experienced climbers), muggings are fairly common.

• Avoid quiet times of day (early or late), little-used paths and Devil’s Peak.

• Leave early enough to give yourself time to complete your route during daylight.

• Don’t try to descend via an unknown route. If you get lost in poor weather, seek shelter, keep warm and wait for help.

• Never make fires. No cooking is allowed, even on portable stoves – mountain fires are a serious hazard in Cape Town, especially during the dry, hot summer months.

• Never leave even the tiniest scrap of litter on the mountain.

Wear:

• Good footwear. Walking boots or sturdy running shoes are recommended.

• A broad-rimmed hat.

• Long trousers to protect you from the sun and scratchy shrubs.

Take:

• A backpack.

• A water bottle; allow two litres per person.

• Enough food for the trip.

• A warm top.

• A windbreaker.

• Sunglasses.

• High-factor sunscreen.

• A map (available from Cape Union Mart at the Waterfront and in malls including the Gardens Centre and Cavendish Square, Claremont; and from mapstudio.co.za).

• A fully charged mobile phone with Table Mountain Rescue number saved (021 937 0300).

Pipe Track

This easy and scenic amble follows the contour along the western side of Table Mountain, with Camps Bay stretching out below, the Twelve Apostles ahead and Lion’s Head to one side. It’s mostly flat, with only a little up and down and benches overlooking the view. You can walk for a few kilometres before retracing your steps, or make your way down the mountain to Camps Bay seafront for refreshments.

The trailhead is across Tafelberg Road from the Kloof Nek car park. It is popular with joggers and dog walkers, which makes it safe for an early-morning outing, especially at weekends.

Platteklip Gorge

The first recorded ascent to Table Mountain’s summit was by Portuguese captain Antonio de Saldanha, in 1503. He chose Platteklip Gorge, the gap visible from the front table (the north side), the most accessible way up. The Platteklip route starts near the Lower Cableway Station and ends near the upper station (for a ride down).

From the lower station, walk east along Tafelberg Road until you see a high embankment built from stone and maintained with wire netting. Just beyond and to the left of a small dam is a sign pointing to Platteklip Gorge. A steep fifteen-minute climb brings you onto the Upper Contour Path. About 25m east along this, take the path indicated by a sign that says “Contour Path/Platteklip Gorge”. The path zigzags from here onwards and is very easy to make out. The gorge is the biggest chasm on the whole mountain. It leads directly and safely to the top, but it’s a very steep, three-hour slog, even if you’re reasonably fit. Once on the top, turn right and ascend the last short section onto the front table for a breathtaking view of the city. A sign points to the Upper Cableway Station – a fifteen-minute walk along a concrete path thronging with visitors.