The biscochito, which New Mexico’s legislature declared the state’s official cookie in 1989 (although they spelled it “bizcochito”), is a crisp, tan disc or diamond of fragile shortbread that is cinnamon and anise-flavored and dusted with sugar. It is brittle, so luxuriously rich that it melts in the mouth, and it frequently packs an eye-opening licorice buzz. While it is possible to make biscochitos with butter or shortening, tradition calls for lard, which creates the lightest, most savory cookies. Because they are only slightly sweet, biscochitos are as good a companion for dessert wine as they are for coffee. While suitable as snack or dessert any time, they are almost always on the table at weddings, birthdays, and religious holidays.