Western Kentucky’s burgoo is fork-thick and vividly spiced.
Almost every place that serves barbecue in and around Owensboro, Kentucky (which has proclaimed itself “BBQ Capital of the World”), also offers the fork-thick vegetable soup/stew known as burgoo. Supposedly named when a Civil War cook with a speech impediment tried to say “bird stew,” burgoo traditionally contained meat from whatever small game the cook could get, usually including squirrel. Modern burgoo, a staple on Derby Day along with the mint julep, is made with barbecued mutton (the smoke-pit meat of choice in Western Kentucky) and also possibly chicken, pork, or beef. Its thick and hearty character is similar to Brunswick stew, but it tends to be significantly spicier, verging into Creole gumbo territory.