Most biscuits are small, flat-topped, and circular, the dough rolled out and cut with a floured glass. A cat head biscuit, which in the old days was a special-occasions treat and could be the focus of a meal rather than just an accompanying breadstuff, by contrast, is knobby-topped and asymmetrical, closer in size and shape to a cat’s noggin than to a smooth hockey puck. Like a drop biscuit, a cat head is not rolled or cut; it is formed from dough using a spoon or bare hands. And the dough, like that for all good Southern biscuits, is made from soft flour. (White Lily or Martha White is the Dixie cook’s preferred brand.) While they generally are cooked in open formation on a baking sheet, it is not uncommon for cats to be crowded into an iron skillet, where they bake together as they rise, resulting in a large, pull-apart megabiscuit.