CHEESE CURDS

Cheese curds, bite-size nuggets of fresh cheese known for the squeak they make when teeth bite into them, started as a byproduct of cheesemaking (they’re the leftover pieces when the whey is drained). They have become such a popular snack in dairy farm country that they are a more significant product than the cheese itself in many small creameries.

Freshness is the key to excellence, for within hours of their manufacture the squeak diminishes along with the bright freshness of the curd. Even deep-fried cheese curds are best when they start with absolutely fresh product, which yields the creamiest insides. But in bars throughout Wisconsin and Minnesota, such nicety is of secondary consideration compared to their goodness as a pop-in-the-mouth snack food to go with beer. Fried curds also are hugely popular at fairs and festivals, where the subtle savor of freshness isn’t nearly as important as the fundamental pleasure of eating hot, salty, fried fat.