In southern Louisiana, cochon de lait means more than suckling pig. It suggests a high-spirited fais-do-do (Cajun party) at which the long-cooked, butter-tender pig is a featured culinary attraction, possibly alongside a crawfish boil and cauldrons full of jambalaya. Some sit-down restaurants in this part of the world do serve cochon de lait, either as an entree or the filling of a po’ boy, but the traditional place to get it is outdoors, at a buffet line, where the open pit–cooked pig is doled out as it is cut, affording eaters the opportunity to choose among the very soft white meat, the chewy parts from outside (known as bark), and crunchy strips of skin. Of course, Zydeco music should be wafting through the air.