CRUMB CAKE

In the metropolitan New York area, crumb cake is not just a generic term for coffee cake with crumbs on top. It refers to a pastry that is significantly more crumb than cake. The benchmark versions have so little cake that you might think of one as merely a conveyance mechanism to hoist streusel from plate to mouth, but that would be wrong. The cake provides creamy balance for the crumbs; the two elements together are morning coffee’s best friend. Crumb cake is offered in countless diners, prewrapped by the piece in cellophane and sold to-go. (Do not attempt to eat crumb cake while driving.) Crumb cake is of Polish or German ancestry and is on the same family tree as Pennsylvania Dutch shoofly pie.

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Heavy crumb cake from B&W Bakery of Hackensack, New Jersey.