Pittsburgh’s own version of the Kentucky hot brown is known as turkey devonshire: a hot, open-face sandwich of sliced turkey and bacon on toast, smothered with cheddar cheese sauce. It is said to have been created in 1934 at the Stratford restaurant by Frank Blandi, who went on to become one of the city’s best-known restaurateurs. Steel City chefs do not hesitate to elaborate on the formula, substituting crab, chicken, and/or vegetables for the turkey or garnishing the sandwich with tomatoes . . . or even with French fries, like a Springfield, Illinois, horseshoe. Needless to say, utensils are required.