DOORYARD FRUIT

The best-known dooryard fruit is the Key lime, but there are many others, especially valued along the Overseas Highway through the coral keys from Miami to Key West. Named because they are fruits that grow in people’s yards just outside their doors, they are generally unavailable in supermarkets anywhere else and scarce even in the grocery stores of Key West. Because they grow wild, the flavor of a single variety varies dramatically, depending on where it grows and even which particular tree it comes from. The sour orange, for example, might be a little sweet, but it usually is too sour to eat out of hand. Like many dooryard fruits, it isn’t glossy-magazine pretty; it is gnarled and asymmetrical. Cooks value the orange to make marinades; mixologists use it for tropical drinks. One of the most distinctive dooryard fruits is the calamondin, which looks like a miniature tangerine. It has leathery skin and is easy to segment; its flavor is as intense as the Key lime. The mango now is common in supermarkets, but ask any chef with a Caribbean repertoire, and you will learn that the dooryard variety is a different fruit altogether. Chef Doug Shook of Key West’s Louie’s Backyard restaurant described the difference as that between a flavorless tomato and one picked fresh off a garden vine. “There is nothing like hearing a mango bang off a tree onto your tin roof at night,” he said, “then going out the next morning to pick it up and have it for breakfast.”