DOUGHBOY

Rhode Island and Massachusetts shores are good places to eat seafood—plain or fancy, fried, broiled, or steamed. In this region, chances are good that the meal will include fried dough. A full shore dinner automatically includes savory clam fritters or clam cakes. A popular alternative, especially around the Narragansett Bay, is doughboys. Resembling New Orleans beignets, but sheathed in crystalline sugar rather than powder, doughboys are made from a yeast-risen dough that is sweet enough to balance the briniest seafood, and they usually are served by the half-dozen. Doughboys always are eaten out of hand. As a snack while strolling along the shore or at a fair, they are a doppelganger for Italian zeppoli.

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Doughboys are sold by sixes and dozens.