Fairy food is northern Wisconsin’s name for little blocks of spun caramelized sugar that are leavened so thoroughly that they virtually are weightless. The cubic-inch cubes come robed in a choice of dark or milk chocolate. As teeth cut through the outer layer, the cloud of candy inside evaporates into pure, dis-embodied molasses sweetness. Known locally also as angel candy and similar to Buffalo’s sponge candy and the seafoam sweets found in resort areas on both the Pacific and Atlantic coasts, fairy food is a specialty of old-time candy stores such as Beerntsen’s in Manitowoc, which has been the town confectioner (and ice cream parlor) since 1932.