Most people’s image of bologna is a circle of pale pink lunchmeat about ¹/₁₆ inch thin; when such people see fried bologna on a menu in the mid-South or Southwest, it is easy to understand why they’d disrespect it. But not all bologna resembles a Crayola-colored coaster. If it is sliced thick, made of pork and beef, well seasoned (usually with garlic), and fatty enough that it develops a dark, wickedly savory crust when it sizzles on a skillet, fried bologna is a sandwich that commands loyalty. A variation popular in Memphis, as well as in Oklahoma and Texas, is barbecued bologna. Known to derisive outsiders as Okie Sirloin, it is a full cylinder of bologna that smokes low and slow in the pit until the outside is a beautiful dark bronze and the inside still weeps garlicky juices. Sliced thick and served on a bun (in Memphis, with slaw included), barbecued bologna is almost always sopped with tangy red sauce.