GIARDINIERA

Giardiniera, meaning “from the garden,” traditionally is a mix of bite-size pieces of broccoli, carrot, cauliflower, olives, and peppers in a spicy marinade. On the Italian table, it is a relish to accompany meat on a plate or part of an antipasto platter. In Chicago, it is something else: the same ingredients chopped finely enough that they can be spread with a spoon. Ranging from sport-pepper hot to nearly sweet, giardiniera is the fundamental condiment for Italian beef sandwiches, its pickly zest pairing so well with meat, bread, and gravy. Although the giardiniera concept dates back centuries in the Old Country, it is believed that giardiniera first appeared in Chicago sandwich shops in the late 1920s.

Giardiniera for Beef Sandwiches

In Chicago at Al’s #1 Italian Beef, which claims to have invented the Italian beef sandwich, the giardiniera formula is not written down, but proprietor Chris Pacelli opened up the thirty-gallon tub in which a batch of it was fermenting, stirred it with a long wooden spoon, and gave us a few expert tips. He especially warned against using too much garlic or too much red pepper, thereby creating a condiment that calls attention to itself. A good giardiniera should have just enough zest to underscore—but not overwhelm—the deep, mellow savor of the juicy beef. These measurements make enough to generously top six long sandwiches.

3 celery ribs, minced

1 small clove garlic, minced

½ red pepper, seeded and minced

1 plum tomato, finely chopped

2 tablespoons small capers with 1 tablespoon of caper juice

½ teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon dried oregano

⅓ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1. Combine all ingredients, toss to mix, and cover. Let the mixture steep at room temperature for at least 24 hours, preferably 48, tossing a few times each day.

2. Spoon onto hot beef sandwiches.