HALUSHKA

Uncompromised foreign food, halushka is good for American eaters to know about when dining in any of the great Polish or Slovakian restaurants of the Midwest, especially in northern Ohio. It is a dowdy-looking dish and therefore all too easy to breeze past when pushing a tray through a magnificent cafeteria line, such as that of Cleveland’s Sokolowski’s University Inn, where such big guns as bratwurst, kielbasa, pierogi, and Lake Erie perch steal the show. But main courses want companions, and there is none better than the buttery mix of little sautéed potato dumplings and sweet cabbage that is halushka, aka halushki or haluski. Egg noodles are a frequent shortcut substitute, but they cannot fully satisfy a halushka eater who has known the tender comfort of teeth gliding into a real potato dumpling.