You can get oysters year-round in the Lowcountry, but during months spelled with the R, the height of oyster season, you can enjoy the best possible version in the form of an oyster skillet. A cast iron skillet is loaded with local oysters, suspended in a broth of oyster liquor, butter, garlic, and parsley. On the side will be a toasted baguette, crisp enough to break off long, crunchy tiles to push through the skillet, scooping up a few of the pearlescent little softies and at the same time moistening the bread with their marine juices. Proper companions hereabouts are creamy grits and butter beans, as served in perfect form by chef Philip Bardin at the Old Post Office restaurant on Edisto Island, South Carolina.