A traditional Austrian schaum torte is meringue topped with berries and whipped cream. There is nothing wrong with that, but in Wisconsin, when you see it on a menu, you should expect more. In lieu of whipped cream or in addition to it, the meringue may be topped with rich, eggy frozen custard. Or it may be transmogrified into what is locally known as a cream torte: a layer of graham cracker crumbs or gingersnap crumbs topped with a thick ribbon of cheesecake, the flavor of which cannot be described any more accurately than fresh heavy cream. Atop the dairy-rich block of edible alabaster will be a layer of blueberries or strawberries, giving the dessert a fruity twist.