Square pizzas may indeed be square, but not every pizza that happens to be square qualifies as square pizza, which is a style unique to Detroit. In fact, large Motor City pizzas, known as eight-squares (because that’s how many portions you get), are rectangular. Small ones, cut into four slices, are baked square and cut into quarters. This distinctive style was created by Gus Guerra at a tavern named Buddy’s at the end of World War II. Now grown into a successful local chain, the joint began during the 1930s as a blind pig (a place that serves drinks without a license and after hours), but it went legit when the war was over. To attract customers, Guerra created his own version of Sicilian pizza. It is baked in a pan and the crust is substantial enough to provide crunch and chew all the way from the center to the edges. Of the two sizes available—four-square and eight-square—the smaller one is preferred by many connoisseurs because each slice delivers two super-chewy borders embossed with luscious amounts of caramelized cheese.