It’s surprising that bacon’s recent surge in popularity hasn’t lifted streak o’ lean out of obscurity, for the old Dixie farmhouse dish is superbacon. Bacon squared. The ultimate. Being bacon with extra fat (containing only a streak of lean) and cut extra thick, it has little or no redeeming value among nutrition prigs, but for those who enjoy sizzled pork belly that verges on chunks rather than strips, it is edible nirvana. The handful of restaurants that do serve it (all in the Deep South) fry streak o’ lean so that its crisp exterior encases melty fat. On the side, you want biscuits and pepper cream gravy.