The familiar tamale is cornmeal batter laced with ground meat, cheese, and/or chile, wrapped in a husk (or parchment) and then steamed until the ingredients attain soft harmony. A tamale pie uses the same ingredients; instead of being wrapped, they are mixed or layered and baked in a casserole. While most iterations are humble dishes meant to feed maximum family members at minimum expense, the tamale pie also can be as elegant as a soufflé. So it is at Tucson’s inspired Cafe Poca Cosa, where tamale pie is on the menu every night as the vegetarian special. Chef Susanna Davila whips her corn batter up with enough cream to make it like custard, then festoons it with toppings that range from sweet mango chutney to savory marinara sauce.
Cafe Poca Cosa of Tucson offers a different kind of tamale pie each day. This one includes a swirl of mango and peppers.