Chapter 12: Tricks to Teach Your Dog
While some behaviors are necessary to teach your dog to instill family manners, some are just plain fun! Trick training is a great activity to do with your dog. It’s a fun way to take breaks from your regular training sessions. Some tricks, such as Fetch and Drop It, are also very practical.
The training process for tricks is the same as training for any other behavior. Here are twenty-five tricks that you can train your dog to perform.
The training process for tricks is the same as training for any other behavior.
Back Up
Here’s how to teach your dog to back away from you.
Goal: Your dog will move away from you, walking backward.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats. You’ll need a narrow area, just wider than your dog’s shoulders. For example, you can work alongside a wall, lining up four chairs a couple feet away from the wall to form a narrow “hallway.”
1.In the narrow training area, stand close to your dog, facing him.
2.Take one small step toward your dog. Look for any indication of your dog’s moving backward, even if it’s just one paw. When you see it, click and feed him a treat.
3.Repeat. Click and treat for any movement backwards.
4.When you get to the end of the “hallway,” take a brief break to get back into position. You can just turn around so that your dog will back through in the opposite direction.
5.Repeat Steps 1–4 two more times. End your training session.
As your dog starts to move backward regularly, it’s time for you to stop moving toward him.
1.In the narrow training area, stand close to your dog, facing him.
2.Take one small step toward your dog. Look for any indication of your dog’s moving backward, even if it’s just one paw. When you see it, click and feed him a treat.
3.Hold still. Wait for your dog to move backward without your moving towards him. When he starts to move, click and feed him a treat.
4.Repeat Step 3 until your dog has taken several steps. Click and treat all backward movement. Take a brief break to get back into position.
5.Repeat Steps 3–4 two more times. End your training session.
When your dog reliably takes steps backward while you stay in the same spot, it’s time to add the cue.
1.Get into position. Cue “Back Up” once, in a friendly voice. When your dog takes two steps backward, click and treat.
2.Repeat Step 1 until your dog reaches the end of your “hallway.” Take a brief break to get back into position.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 four times. Gradually work up to your dog’s taking more steps before you click and treat. End your training session.
In future training sessions, work to where your dog will move backward for the entire length of your training area before you click and treat. When your dog is zipping along backward, it’s time to make it more challenging by removing the area restrictions. How you do this will depend on how you set up your “hallway.” For example, if you used a line of chairs, then remove one chair from the line for one repetition, then two chairs for a repetition, then three, and then the last chair.
Keep working against the wall at first—remove only one side of your training area at this point. Then, start positioning your dog farther from the wall. Gradually work to where your dog no longer needs the barrier in order to back up. When you reach that point, transition the click to your release cue, “OK!”
Try This! Backing Up with a Nervous Dog
Some dogs get nervous when you step toward them. If your dog gets concerned or worried when you move toward him, just stand still and instead shape the behavior. Wait for any movement backward, and then click and treat.
Balance Bone on Nose
This trick can make a great photo op!
Goal: Your dog will balance a dog treat on his nose until you cue him to eat it.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats that you can balance on your dog’s nose easily.
Preparation: Teach Sit-Stay first. Accustom your dog to your handling his muzzle so he is comfortable with your hands around his nose.
1.Cue “Sit.”
2.Touch the treat to the top of your dog’s nose. If he goes to take the treat, just pull it all the way back. Wait and try again. When he holds still, click and give him the treat.
3.Repeat Step 2 four times. End your training session.
When you can touch the treat to the top of your dog’s nose without his trying to eat it, you’re ready to move on to the next step.
1.Cue “Sit.” Place the treat on the top of your dog’s nose. Immediately remove it, click, and give your dog the treat.
2.Repeat Step 1, gradually increasing the amount of time that the treat stays on your dog’s nose before you click and treat. Keep your hand close in case you have to stop the treat from falling off. Repeat five times.
3.Cue “Sit.” Place the treat on your dog’s nose. Wait a few seconds and then click. See if your dog will try to get the treat himself. Know that many dogs won’t automatically catch the treat in a flip off of their noses. Some dogs will develop the ability to catch the treat quickly; others will take many repetitions. Either way is OK. Repeat four times. End your training session.
At future training sessions, when your dog is reliably balancing the treat on his nose, transition the clicker to your release cue, “OK!”
Tip: You don’t necessarily need a verbal cue for this behavior. The act of putting a treat on your dog’s nose can be the cue for him to hold still. If you want a cue, though, add it when the behavior is reliable. You could use “Hold” or “Balance” or whatever you want as long as you’re consistent.
A great trick is teaching your dog to balance a treat on his nose.
Did You Know? Tricks Are For Two
Is your dog physically able to perform the trick you want to teach him? Be sure he is healthy and capable of getting into any positions necessary.
Always remember, tricks are supposed to be fun! If your dog shows signs of stress, stop your training session. Forcing a dog to do something that makes him uncomfortable is not worth the photo opportunity. Tricks should be a blast for the both of you!
Bashful
This trick is sure to get an “awwww” from your friends.
Goal: Your dog will put one paw on his nose.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats, sticky note.
Preparation: Depending on what you want the final behavior to look like, teach Sit or Down first.
1.Cue “Sit” or “Down.” Put a sticky note on your dog’s muzzle.
2.Your dog will likely raise a paw to rub the sticky note off. When his paw touches his nose, click and treat.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 nine times. End your training session.
4.Repeat Steps 1–2 three times. Click and treat all correct responses.
5.Wait to see if your dog will touch his paw to his nose without the sticky note. Give him a full minute. If he does, click and treat. If he doesn’t, go back to using the sticky note for a few more repetitions and then try again.
6.Repeat Step 5 nine times. End your training session.
When your dog is reliably putting his paw on his nose, add the cue. Cue “Are you bashful?” or something similar, once, in a friendly voice. Click and treat all correct responses.
When your dog is reliably responding to the cue, add the release cue “OK!” to end the behavior.
Tip: If your dog is uncomfortable or stressed about the sticky note, try to make it a positive experience for him. Give him treats and lots of praise, just for wearing the sticky note, until it is no longer a problem. If he continues to be stressed, try another trick instead. There is no need to distress your dog just for a cute trick!
Teach Sit or Down before attempting the Bashful trick.
Crawl
Here’s how to teach your dog to crawl.
Goal: Your dog will crawl across the ground.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats.
Preparation: Teach Down first.
1.Cue “Down.” Hold a treat right in front of your dog’s nose. Wiggle it to entice him and then, very slowly, move it straight out, away from him, a couple of inches (cm). Keep it low to the ground. The second he stretches for the treat, click and give him the treat.
2.Repeat Step 1 two more times. Each time, when your dog starts to crawl forward, click and give him the treat.
3.With an empty hand, but holding your hand in the same position as if you had a treat, repeat Step 1. When your dog begins to move, click and give him a treat.
4.Repeat Step 4 five times. End your training session.
In future training sessions, gradually work up to where your dog will crawl a distance of several feet (m). Once your dog learns to reliably crawl several feet (m), it’s time to add the cue.
1.Cue “Down.” Cue “Crawl” and give your hand signal. When your dog crawls several feet, click and treat.
2.Repeat Step 1 five times. End your training session.
In future training sessions, when your dog reliably performs the behavior on cue, transition the clicker to your release cue, “OK!”
Tips: If your dog keeps getting up instead of crawling, you’re likely holding the treat too far in front of him or moving it too fast. Try going slower. Don’t click and treat unless his rear stays on the ground.
Don’t click and treat the Crawl unless his rear is on the ground.
Dance
Dance is a great trick, but you’ve got to make sure your dog is strong enough to handle it.
Goal: Your dog will rise up on his hind paws and move in a circle.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats.
Preparation: This behavior requires your dog to carry all of his weight on his hips and hind legs. Do not attempt this trick if your dog has any orthopedic issues that would cause him to experience pain during this behavior.
1.Hold a treat above your dog’s nose. Wiggle it to entice him and encourage him to rise up, front paws off the ground.
2.The second his front paws leave the ground, click and give him the treat.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 two times.
4.With an empty hand, but holding your hand in the same position as if you had a treat, repeat Steps 1–2. When your dog rises off the ground, click and treat.
5.Repeat Step 4 five times, gradually working to where your dog rises higher. End your training session.
Tip: If your dog jumps off the ground, hold your hand lower.
When your dog is reliably rising up on his hind legs, it’s time to get him to move.
1.Use your hand signal to get your dog to rise up. Slowly move your hand in a circle so that your dog follows it. Click for even the smallest movement and then treat.
2.Repeat Step 1, gradually working up to a full circle, five times. Click and treat all correct responses. End your training session.
When your dog is moving reliably in a circle, it’s time to add the cue.
1.Cue “Dance.” Use your hand signal to get your dog to dance in a circle. Click and treat.
2.Repeat Step 1 five times. For now, have your dog complete just one circle. Click and treat all correct responses.
In future training sessions, you can ask your dog to complete more than one circle. Your click ends the behavior. Go only as far as your dog is physically able and comfortable. When your dog is reliably dancing in a circle, transition the clicker to your release cue, “OK!”
Tip: If you want to make this very fancy, you can train the Dance to fluency in one direction only and then start from scratch and train it the other way—just be sure to call it something else. So if a clockwise circle is “Dance,” then a counterclockwise circle could be “Reverse.” Or, you could name them different dances. One could be “Samba!” and the other “Polka!”
If your dog jumps off the ground while learning Dance, hold your hand lower.
Drop It
Drop It isn’t just a trick; it could be helpful for getting your dog to drop something dangerous.
Goal: Your dog will spit out an item in his mouth.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats. An item that your dog will take in his mouth.
Preparation: It helps if you have already taught Take It, but as long as the item is desirable to your dog, and he will put it in his mouth, it’s not necessary.
1.Offer your dog the item. Let him hold it for a few seconds.
2.Hold up a treat right in front of him. He will likely spit the item out to get the treat. The second he spits out the item, click and then give him the treat.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 two times.
4.Offer your dog the item. This time, hold your empty hand in front of your dog’s nose, in the same position. When he spits out the item, click and give him a treat. This will fade the lure so that you and your dog don’t become dependent on it.
5.Repeat Step 4 seven times. End your training session.
When your dog is reliably spitting out the item when you hold up your hand, it’s time to add the verbal cue.
1.Offer your dog the item.
2.Cue “Drop It” once, in a friendly voice. Hold up your hand as you have before. When he spits out the item, click and give him a treat.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 for a total of ten repetitions. End your training session.
Tips: After you’ve introduced the verbal cue, you can fade your hand signal. Just make your gesture smaller and smaller until you no longer need it. If you find that your dog is so excited about the treats that he no longer wants to pick up the item, try using a higher value item and lower value treats.
Use an item that you know your dog will take in his mouth to teach Drop It.
Fetch/Retrieve
It’s not just retrievers who can learn this fun trick. You’ll need to first teach your dog to Give. (The steps for teaching Give can be found later in this chapter under Give.)
Goal: Your dog will go to an item, pick it up, bring it to you, and deliver it to your hand.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats. An item that your dog will readily take in his mouth.
Preparation: Teach Give first. Fetch is a chained behavior—there are several behaviors that are parts of the whole. It is easier if your dog learns the last part, Give, which is delivering an item to your hand, first.
1.Place the item near you, on the floor.
2.Click and treat for any interest your dog has in the item, even if he just looks at it.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 for a total of ten repetitions. Your goal is for your dog to show such interest in the item that he picks it up, but you may not achieve that during the first session, which is OK. If your dog does pick up the item, he will likely spit it out when you click, and this is also OK. The click ends the behavior, and you are rewarding him for picking it up.
When your dog is reliably picking up the item, it’s time to add the cues.
1.Place the item near you, on the floor.
2.Just before your dog goes to pick up the item, cue “Fetch.”
3.Just before he puts the item in your hand, cue “Give.” When he places the item in your hand, click and treat.
Repeat Steps 1–2 for a total of ten repetitions. End your training session.
In future training sessions, gradually increase the distance that the item is from you. If at any time your dog drops the item too early, just go back to a point where he was successful at dropping the item in your hand and complete more repetitions there.
Tip: As your dog gets reliable with the behavior, start practicing in different locations and with different items.
Teach Give before you attempt Fetch.
Give
Give means that your dog will place an item in your hand. It’s the end of the Fetch/Retrieve exercise, and it’s also used when your dog picks up any item that you want him to bring to you. For example, if you are on a walk, and you can tell that your dog has something in his mouth, you can cue “Give,” and he will place the item in your hand. Depending on the item, you might regret it, but it is better than his swallowing something that is dangerous for him. Teaching Give can help solve the problem of a dog’s thinking that just because he has something in his mouth, he should run away with it and you should chase him.
Goal: Your dog will deliver an item in his mouth to your hand.
What You’ll Need: Treats, an item that your dog will readily take in his mouth. You will need two hands for this exercise, so you will not have a spare hand for a clicker. You can use a verbal marker, such as “Yes,” instead of the click. Be sure that you “charge up” the verbal marker (as you did with the clicker when you first introduced it) so he understands that it means a treat is coming.
Preparation: Teach Take It first.
1.Cue “Take It.”
2.Hold an open hand directly below your dog’s muzzle. In your other hand, hold up a treat.
3.When your dog sees the treat, he is likely to spit out the item. Catch it. When he does, mark “Yes” and give him the treat.
4.Repeat Steps 1–3 two times.
5.Cue “Take It” and hold an open hand directly below your dog’s muzzle. This time, hold your other, empty hand in the same position as you did when you had a treat.
6.When your dog drops the item in your hand, mark “Yes” and give him a treat.
7.Repeat Steps 5–6 seven times. End your training session.
When your dog is reliably dropping the item in your hand when it is held below his muzzle, then it’s time to add the cue.
1.Cue “Take It.”
2.Just before you hold your hand up to signal your dog to drop the item in your hand, cue “Give” once, in a friendly voice. Then hold up your hand. When he drops the item in your hand, mark “Yes” and give him in a treat.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 for a total of ten repetitions. End your training session.
In future training sessions, you can fade your hand signal by making it smaller and smaller, so you can use just the verbal cue. In addition, start moving your hand around, just a few inches at a time, so that your dog has to move to deliver the item to your hand.
Tip: When your dog is reliably responding to the Give cue and putting the item in your hand, start working with other items. Start with high value items that he is likely to put in his mouth, and then you can move on to other items.
Give means that your dog will place an item in your hand.
High Five
Teach your dog to give you a high five.
Goal: Your dog will raise one paw high and touch it to your open palm.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats, paw target.
Preparation: Teach Sit and Paw Target first. Before you begin, decide how specific you want to be with this behavior. For example, do you want your dog to high-five your right hand with his right paw only? Or does it matter which paw he uses? Decide first, and then you will click and treat only the responses you want.
1.Cue “Sit.” Hold the target in your hand, low to the ground, with your palm facing your dog. Cue “Paw.”
2.When he touches his paw to the target, click and treat.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 five times. Gradually hold the target higher and higher so that your dog has to reach to touch it.
4.Hold your hand in the same position, but without the target in it. Cue “Paw.” If he touches your hand with his paw, click and treat. If he doesn’t, wait at least a minute, just holding your hand still, to see if he understands. If he doesn’t, put the target back in your hand for more repetitions.
When your dog is reliably touching his paw to your palm, it’s time to add the cue.
1.Cue “Sit.” Cue “High Five” once, in a friendly voice. Cue “Paw.” When your dog touches his paw to your hand, click and treat.
2.Repeat Step 1 for a total of ten repetitions.
In future training sessions, use just the High Five cue, not “Paw.”
Tips: Be sure that you are not holding your hand too high for your dog to easily reach. Also, be sure that he is sitting on secure ground so he doesn’t slip. If he starts to slide, he may not want to raise his paw because it will put him off balance.
In the High-Five, your dog will raise a paw and touch it to your palm.
Jump into Your Arms
Get ready to catch your canine! Of course, always be sure your dog is physically able for any trick, but also check yourself! If you have a bad back or are not physically able to securely catch and hold your dog, please do not attempt this trick. Your dog needs to trust that you will catch and hold him safely. You also don’t want to get hurt! This is not an ideal trick for very large dogs.
Goal: Your dog will leap from the ground into your arms for you to catch him.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats. You will also need a chair for you to sit on.
Preparation: It can be helpful to teach Wait first (see end of chapter), so that your dog will wait until you cue him to jump into your arms.
1.Sit in a chair directly in front of your dog.
2.Encourage your dog to jump into your lap. You can pat your hands on your legs, talk sweet to him, do what it takes to encourage him. When he jumps into your lap, click. Toss a treat on the ground so he jumps off of the chair to get it and resets for the next repetition.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 for a total of ten repetitions. End your training session.
4.Repeat Steps 1–2, except when your dog jumps into your lap, hold him briefly in both arms, in a manner that is comfortable for both of you.
5.Repeat Step 4 for a total of ten repetitions. End your training session. Repeat sessions until your dog is very comfortable jumping up into your lap and being held.
6.Stand up, facing your dog. Bend at the knees and encourage your dog to jump up. If he does, hold him, click, and release him gently to the floor, tossing a treat for him. If he hesitates, give him a minute to see if he will jump up. If he still doesn’t, complete more repetitions with you sitting down again.
7.Repeat Step 6 for a total of ten repetitions. End your training session.
8.When your dog is reliably jumping up into your lap with your knees bent, it’s time to put it on cue.
9.Position yourself in front of your dog. Cue “Hup!” or “Jump,” or another verbal cue of your choice—just be consistent. Then encourage your dog as you have been doing to jump up into your arms. Click and treat all correct responses.
10.Repeat Step 1 for a total of ten repetitions. Gradually work until you are in a full standing position. Click and treat all correct responses. End your training session.
Try This! Jump through Your Arms
If you want your dog to learn to jump through your arms, then start the same process as for the hoop, except squat down and lay one arm down on the floor. You will eventually need both arms, so you may want to use a verbal marker for this exercise instead of a clicker. When your dog is reliably going over your arm, gradually add your other arm in an arc, forming a hoop with your arms. You may need to do this gradually so that your dog doesn’t try to go around your arms instead of through. Click (or mark) and treat all correct responses. When the behavior is reliable, add the cue “Through!” or “Hup!”
Jump through a Hoop
Teach your dog the classic trick of jumping through a hoop.
Goal: Your dog will jump through a hoop.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats, hula hoop large enough for your dog to jump through comfortably.
1.Hold the hula hoop in front of your dog, on the ground. Click and treat for any interest in the hula hoop, even if he just looks at it.
2.As your dog shows more interest in the hula hoop, shape his behavior so that you click for one paw through the hoop, then two, then all four as he passes through the hoop. Do ten repetitions.
3.Repeat Step 2 until your dog is passing through the hoop. Be sure to allow your dog to approach the hoop from both sides so that he doesn’t become dependent on going through only one way. For each training session, do ten repetitions.
4.When your dog is reliably going through the hoop, it’s time to add the cue and raise the hoop.
5.Hold the hoop in front of your dog, on the floor. Cue “Through!” or “Hup!” once, in a friendly voice. Be sure that the cue is consistent and not similar to a cue for another action. Click and treat all correct responses.
6.Repeat Step 1 for a total of ten repetitions. Gradually hold the hoop higher and higher with each successful repetition, raising it just an inch (cm) at a time. Click and treat all correct responses.
Have a little circus-like fun and teach your dog to jump through a hoop.
Know Toys by Name
You can teach your dog to identify his toys by name and bring them to you.
Goal: Your dog will retrieve specific toys that you request.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats, toys.
Preparation: Teach Fetch/Retrieve first.
1.Start with one toy (e.g., a tennis ball), placed a short distance away. Warm up with some Fetch cues. Click and treat all correct responses.
2.Start labeling the toy by cueing “Fetch Ball.” Click and treat all correct responses.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 nine times. End your training session.
4.Use a different toy, for example, a squeaky bear. Repeat Steps 1–3 with the new toy, calling it something different (“Fetch Bear”). End your training session.
5.Place the ball a short distance away from the dog and the squeaky toy about 2 feet (.6 m) away from the ball.
6.Face the ball. Cue “Fetch Ball.” If your dog retrieves the ball, click and treat. If he goes to the squeaky toy, simply place the squeaky toy farther away and try again.
7.Face the squeaky bear. Cue “Fetch Bear.” If your dog retrieves the bear, click and treat. If he goes for the ball, simply place the ball farther away and try again.
8.Repeat Steps 6–7 eight times, randomly calling out each toy. Don’t always bounce back and forth between them; create an unpredictable pattern. End your training session.
In future training sessions, gradually move the toys closer together.
Tips: When your dog can reliably differentiate between two toys, add a third toy. You’ll follow the same process. Start by introducing the new toy by itself, then introduce it with just one toy, and then add the third toy. Only go as fast as your dog can be successful.
You can teach your dog to identify his toys and bring them to you.
Toy Names
Make sure that the names you give the toys are distinct so that it will be easier for your dog to tell them apart.
Paws Up
Paws Up is a useful behavior when you want just your dog’s front paws up on you or something, such as a bed. This is a good behavior for therapy dogs because it can make it easier for patients to reach them if they put their front paws up on a hospital bed.
Goal: Your dog will put only his front paws up on a person or object.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats.
Preparation: Teach Paw Target and Off first. (The steps for teaching Off can be found later in this chapter under Up/Off). Make sure that your dog is orthopedically sound to support his weight on his rear end.
1.Warm up with some Paw Target behaviors.
2.Stand next to a bed or chair. Cue “Paw.” Click and treat. Cue “Off.” Click and treat a correct response.
3.Repeat Step 2 three times.
4.Repeat Step 2, except once one paw is up, cue the other paw. Click and treat all correct responses.
5.Repeat Step 4 five times. End your training session.
6.Repeat Step 2, except withhold the click until your dog places both paws up. Click and treat all correct responses. Repeat a total of ten times and end your training sessions.
7.In future training sessions, add the cue “Paws Up” right before “Paw.” After ten repetitions, you will just use the new cue “Paws Up.”
Tip: Practice this behavior in different locations.
Paws Up is a good behavior for therapy dogs to learn.
Play Dead
This might be the ultimate canine party trick.
Goal: Your dog will fall to the ground and lie on his side, holding still.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats.
Preparation: Teach Down and the release cue.
1.Cue “Down.” Once he is in position, hold a treat in your hand and start at your dog’s nose. Slowly tuck the treat under his chin and then draw the treat across your dog’s shoulder, at an angle, so that he stretches onto his side.
2.As soon as he is lying on his side, click and toss the treat to reset him for another repetition.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 two times.
4.Repeat Steps 1–2, except this time, use an empty hand. Be sure to use the same hand gesture that you have been using. When your dog stretches out on his side, click and treat.
5.Repeat Step 4 seven times. End your training session.
6.Repeat Step 4, gradually extending the time that your dog lies on his side, a second at a time, until you click and treat. Work up to about five seconds. Do ten repetitions and then end your training session.
7.When your dog will hold the sideways Down for five seconds, it’s time to add the cue. Just before you use your hand signal, cue “Bang!” or “Play Dead!” once, in a friendly voice. Choose your cue and be consistent. Click and treat correct responses. End your training session after ten repetitions.
8.Work to where you can gradually stand up and signal your dog, rather than leaning down near him. For example, instead of stretching across your dog’s shoulder, only stretch ¾ of the way and hold still, seeing if he completes the action on his own. In later repetitions, make this motion smaller so you only motion towards the shoulder. Then gradually work to where you are kneeling and motioning, then standing and motioning. If at any point he is confused, go back to the point at which he was successful.
9.When your dog is reliably working with you standing up, then substitute the release cue (“OK!”) for the click. Continue to treat after your release cue.
Play Dead is a classic trick that’s fun to teach.
Put Toys Away
There’s nothing better than a little help around the house.
Goal: Your dog will put his toys away in a basket or box.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats, toys, basket/box.
Preparation: Teach Fetch and Drop It first.
1.Have the basket directly in front of you. Scatter some toys around the room, not too far from you. Cue “Fetch.” When your dog reaches you with the toy, cue “Drop It” and he will spit the toy into the box. Click and treat.
2.Repeat Step 1 until all the toys are in the box. Click and treat all correct responses.
3.Scatter the toys and repeat again, for a total of ten repetitions. End your training session.
In future training sessions, gradually work farther and farther from the box.
Try This! Interactive Games
Teaching your dog tricks helps engage his brain and keeps him mentally stimulated. Interactive games also provide healthy mental challenges for your dog.
There are games on the market that you can purchase to challenge your dog’s creativity. Most require your dog to use his nose to find treats hidden within toys. Some are easier, such as a ball that you fill with kibble and that release the treats as the dog rolls it around. Others are harder, such as puzzles that require the dog to paw at levers or push blocks to reveal compartments hiding treats.
These games are good for occupying your active dog while you are busy doing other things. Just be sure that the specific toy is durable enough to leave with your dog unattended. Some will require supervision, depending on how destructive your dog is. Besides, part of the fun is watching your dog figure out the puzzles!
Roll Over
Teach your dog how to roll over.
Goal: Your dog will lie down and roll completely over to return to his original position.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats.
Preparation: Teach Down first.
1.Cue “Down.” Hold a treat in your hand. Tuck it under his chin, then across his shoulder, and then all the way over his body so that he follows it and rolls over. Your dog may roll all the way over the first time. If so, click and treat. If not, click and treat for any stretch toward the treat. You will gradually ask for increasing stretches until he rolls all the way over.
2.When you have three successful rollovers, discontinue the treat in your hand, but use the same hand signal. Click and treat all correct responses.
3.Repeat Step 2 until you have ten total repetitions. End your training session.
4.When your dog is reliably rolling over, add the cue. Just before you give the hand signal, cue “Roll Over” once, in a friendly voice. Click and treat a correct response.
During the Roll Over, your dog will roll over completely to return to his original position.
Shake
Prove how friendly your dog is by teaching him to shake hands.
Goal: Your dog will put his paw in your hand for you to shake.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats, paw target.
Preparation: Teach Paw Target first.
1.Hold the paw target in your hand, with palm facing up. Cue “Paw.”
2.When your dog puts his paw on the target, click and treat.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 two times.
4.Hold your hand in the same position, without the paw target. Cue “Paw.”
5.When your dog puts his paw in your hand, click and treat.
6.Repeat Steps 4–5 six times. End your training session.
7.When your dog is reliably giving you his paw, add the cue “Shake” and then “Paw.” After ten repetitions, you’ll no longer need to use “Paw.”
Sit Pretty
This is a fun trick, but you should probably skip it if your dog has any orthopedic problems.
Goal: Your dog will sit up.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats.
Preparation: Teach Sit first.
1.Cue “Sit.” Hold a treat just above your dog’s head. Wiggle it, enticing him to reach up for it.
2.As soon as his front legs leave the ground but he’s remaining in a sit, click and treat.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 twice.
4.Repeat Steps 1–2, except hold your hand in the same position without a treat. Click and treat correct responses.
5.Repeat Step 4 six times. Each time, gradually shape your dog to where he picks his front legs up higher until he is holding the position you want. End your training session.
6.When your dog is reliably going into position, add the cue “Sit Pretty.” Click and treat all correct responses for a total of ten repetitions.
7.When your dog is reliably responding to the cue and then add the release cue “OK!”
Teach Sit before you move on to Sit Pretty.
Speak
Teach your dog Speak, and your conversations with him won’t have to be one-sided.
Goal: Your dog will bark on cue.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats.
1.Do something that is likely to get your dog to bark. When he does, click and treat.
2.Repeat Step 1 five times. Click and treat all correct responses.
3.When your dog is reliably barking, add the cue “Speak!” Click and treat all correct responses.
Teaching your dog to bark on cue is relatively easy.
Spin
Teach your dog how to spin in a circle.
Goal: Your dog will spin in a circle.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats, target stick (optional).
1.Hold the target stick at your dog’s nose level. You can use a hand if you prefer. Cue “Touch.” Slowly move the target stick in a circle. If your dog will do a complete circle, click and treat. If not, just try a quarter circle at first. Click and treat a few repetitions at that level, then try a half circle for a few repetitions, then three-quarters of a circle, and then a full circle.
2.Repeat a total of ten times. End your training session.
3.When your dog will reliably complete a circle, add the cue “Spin” just before you motion with the target stick. Click and treat all correct responses.
Tip: If you want your dog to keep spinning, then start to click for two spins, then three. Don’t let your dog get dizzy, though! Add the release cue “OK!” so that your dog will know when to stop spinning.
Take a Bow
After learning these magnificent tricks, your dog deserves to take a bow.
Goal: Your dog will lower the front of his body down while his rear remains up.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats.
1.With your dog in a standing position, hold a treat under his chin and move it straight to the floor, between his front legs. When he lowers his head, click and treat.
2.Repeat Step 1, working to where your dog will bend his front elbows. As soon as they bend, click and treat.
3.Repeat Step 2 two times.
4.Repeat Step 2, except hold your hand in the same position but without the treat. Click and treat a correct response.
5.Repeat Step 4 six times. End your training session.
6.When your dog is reliably bowing, it’s time to add the cue. Just before you perform your hand signal, cue “Take a Bow!” once, in a friendly voice.
7.Repeat Step 6 for a total of ten repetitions. End your training session.
Repeat Step 6, adding the release cue “OK!”
After learning all of these tricks, let your dog Take a Bow!
Up/Off
You can use Up and Off to allow your dog up on furniture and then let him know when it’s time to get down. You can also use Off to cue your dog to get off of you or others if he jumps up.
Goal: Your dog will get off of whatever he’s on, with four paws on the floor.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats
Preparation: Teach Hand Target first.
1.Decide where you want your dog to jump up, such as on the couch. Warm up with a few Touch behaviors.
2.Hold your hand up on the couch. Cue “Touch.” When your dog jumps up and touches your hand, click and treat.
3.Hold your hand off the couch. Cue “Touch.” When your dog jumps off the couch to touch your hand, click and treat.
4.Just before you present your hand on the couch, cue “Up” and then “Touch.” When your dog jumps up, click and treat.
5.Just before you present your hand off the couch, cue “Off” and then “Touch.” When your dog jumps off, click and treat.
6.Repeat Steps 4–5 eight times.
7.Repeat Steps 4–5 ten times but use only the new cues. You no longer need to use the cue “Touch” because you have replaced it with the new cues. End your training session.
Tip: If you find that your dog is hesitant to jump up on the furniture, then initially click and treat for any stretching or movement toward jumping. Eventually, your dog will jump all the way up.
Did You Know?
Performance Dogs
If you want to try your hand at show business, teaching your dog tricks is a good way to get started. Dogs are used in TV commercials, in videos, in movies, and as models for advertisements. Dogs are even on Broadway and in local theater productions.
In order to be a good canine actor, your dog will need to have solid obedience skills in addition to fancy tricks. He must also be confident and comfortable in a variety of environments. He may be expected to work under hot lights, with loud noises, big cameras, flashes of light, and strangers. Shy dogs, or dogs that take a while to warm up to situations, will be too stressed for this type of work. It takes a confident dog to be an actor!
Opportunities for stardom may be limited, depending on the area you live in. If you are in New York or Los Angeles, the opportunities may be greater, but with greater competition. Whether you approach a local advertising agency to use your dog as a model that can perform a handsome Sit-Stay, or interview agents to represent your dog for a potential TV career, don’t hesitate to be a stage mom or dad. Never put your dog in situations that could harm him or frighten him. Even if the public falls in love with him, he’s your best friend. Make sure that everyone you work with has his best interests and safety in mind.
Wait
Wait is not just a trick, it is polite behavior.
Goal: Your dog will hesitate in one spot until you tell him to do something else.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats. If you are working at a doorway, have your dog on leash so that he doesn’t run outside. You’ll also need a doorway, crate, or gate.
1.Stand at the doorway. Start to open the door. If your dog starts to go outside, shut the door. Don’t shut it on your dog!
2.Repeat Step 1 until your dog hesitates. Click and throw the treat over the threshold to encourage your dog to go outside.
3.Repeat Step 1 nine times. End your training session.
4.Repeat Step 1, gradually working to where you can open the door all the way and your dog will remain in position until you click and treat. Repeat a total of ten times. End your training session.
5.Repeat Step 1, gradually working to where you can step across the threshold but your dog remains in place until you click and treat. Repeat a total of ten times. End your training session.
6.When your dog is reliably waiting at the door, add the cue “Wait.” Vary the amount of time he has to wait before you click and treat. After ten repetitions, end your training session.
Tips: For Wait, it doesn’t matter if your dog is sitting, standing, or lying down. Some dogs will choose to sit, which is fine but not necessary. Practice this behavior in different locations.
Wave
Wave is one of the simplest tricks to teach.
Goal: Your dog will wave his paw.
What You’ll Need: Clicker, treats, paw target.
Preparation: Teach Paw Target first.
1.Hold the paw target in your hand, with palm facing your dog. Cue “Paw.”
2.When your dog puts his paw on the target, click and treat.
3.Repeat Steps 1–2 two times.
4.Hold your hand in the same position, except just before your dog touches the target, pull your hand away. Click and treat.
5.Repeat Step 4 five times. End your training session.
6.When your dog is reliably waving, add the cue “Wave” before “Paw.” After ten repetitions, you no longer need to use “Paw.”
Teach Paw Target before you teach Wave.