THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB

Some things you learn the hard way. For example, I once drilled into my hand. On a separate occasion I nearly electrocuted myself. While tools for home improvement can certainly prove handy, their associated work can often be hazardous, especially if you don’t know what you’re doing.

It’s smart to always use the right tool for the job and to use it the way it was intended. And those little instruction manuals that are included by the manufacturer—read those, too, because it’s more fun to learn the easy way.

My first toolbox was a gift from my dad and contained your basic hammer, screwdriver, pliers and a wrench. It grew over the years. These days I have a backyard garage to store all my stuff. You might never require quite that much room for your equipment, but the more projects you take on, the more your tool collection will expand. Start with the basic essentials and add items as you need them. Before you know it, tool collecting will get in your blood, and you’ll start picking up gadgets that you might not need today, but you might need someday.

This chapter will overview common toolbox essentials as well as highlighting some slightly more obscure devices that might just help your next project go smoothly. We’ll offer some basic instruction on how to use them, and provide professional insight that you won’t find in the product literature. We’ll show when to grab the right glue, and when to use the right clamp. You’ll get some good advice on how to gear up for a safe work area, as well as how to keep the house as clean as possible while you repair and remodel. So, get ready to review some cool tools and learn how to get the most out of them.

001 BUILD A BASIC TOOLBOX

From simple fix-ups to major home improvements, the right tools make all the difference. Novice DIYers should assemble a toolbox with a handful of essential tools that are most widely applicable to any job. Additional materials can be purchased as required, expanding your arsenal as your experience and skill set improve. Choose a toolbox with ample storage space for large, irregular items such as a hammer and square, but one that’s light and compact enough for easy portability.

HAMMER From hanging a picture frame to building a wall, the right hammer is an essential household tool. You’ll find specialized models for heavy-duty framing and for fine woodwork, but a good basic model should be medium weight (16 to 20 ounces) with a smooth-faced head, rip claw, and non-wood handle.

SCREWDRIVERS Whether you’re putting something together or taking it apart, the right screwdriver makes all the difference. You’ll find various types of screws in everything from woodworking to automotive work, and each type requires a matching screwdriver, so you’ll need a variety. Common screw types include flat-head, Phillips, square-drive, Torx™, and Pozidriv.

TAPE MEASURE The tape measure will likely get the most mileage of all your tools. A 25- to 30-foot tape will suffice for most jobs, big and small.

UTILITY KNIFE You can use a razor-sharp utility knife to open up packages, cut roof shingles, trim insulation, and so much more. Choose a model that offers convenient in-handle storage for extra blades.

TORPEDO LEVEL This handy tool utilizes a bubble vial to check for level and plumb on anything from picture frames and shelves to fence posts. Although longer levels are more accurate, a torpedo level comes close and fits in a toolbox.

SPEED SQUARE This is a very handy tool used for simple measuring, drawing straight lines, and marking angles. It also makes a grade-cutting guide for a circular saw.

CHALK LINE Another member of the marking and measuring family of tools, a chalk line can be very useful when working with drywall, roofing, floor installation, or any other unusually large piece of construction material.

SAFETY GOGGLES Arguably the most important item to keep in a toolbox is a pair of safety goggles. These will obviously help keep dangerous particles out of your eyes while cutting or performing demo work, but they can also be worn while painting to protect from flying specks.

WOOD CHISEL A ½-inch wood chisel is useful for many different applications, not just carving and shaping wood, as it’s actually intended to do. Much to the manufacturer’s chagrin, chisels can be used as everything from a miniature pry bar to a paint scraper. Keep two chisels handy: One for cutting wood and another for general usage.

WRENCHES Available with adjustable jaws or with fixed box-end designs, wrenches provide a firm grip for loosening and tightening bolts, nuts, and other faceted fasteners.

PLIERS Available in many sizes and designs, pliers tightly grasp and hold items that can’t be held by your fingers alone.

TONGUE-AND-GROOVE PLIERS The adjustable mouth of tongue-and-groove pliers makes this tool handy for grabbing large items as well as small. Its primary use is for grabbing plumbing fixtures too big for standard wrenches, and the long handles provide plenty of leverage.

LOCKING PLIERS Known by the brand name Vise-Grip, this tool works like adjustable pliers but locks into place with incredible grip, freeing your hands for other work.

ALLEN WRENCHES Appliances, machinery, and power equipment often have screws with a hexagonal recess set in their heads. These screws require Allen wrenches, which are small L-shaped tools in sets of both metric and imperial measurements.

SOCKET WRENCH SET These modular systems include a wrench handle and individual sockets of different sizes, as well as extenders and adapters. The steel sleeve of the socket slips over a hexagonal nut or bolt head, and the wrench’s ratcheting action turns the fastener in only one direction while “freewheeling” in the other for fast tightening and loosening.

TOOL BELT A good tool belt will keep your tape measure, pencil, fasteners, and other small items right at your side, saving you repeat trips back and forth to the toolbox to search for and retrieve supplies.

002 MASTER LAYOUT AND MEASURING

You’ve probably heard the phrase, “measure twice, cut once.” The following tools help make that a reality.

FRAMING SQUARE The metal L-shaped framing square has a 24-inch leg (the blade) and a shorter 16-inch leg (the tongue). The rigid 90-degree heel can easily verify the accuracy of right angles found inside and outside corners. Most framing squares also come with reference tables to assist in determining roof pitch and calculating rafter heights, along with other general applications.

T-SQUARE For large areas, drywall, and sheet goods, a T-square can be used to measure and mark straight, accurate lines up to 48 inches. It can also be edge-clamped in place and used as a guide for making straight cuts.

COMBINATION SQUARE The combination square consists of the blade (a metal ruler) and a stock, which slides along the blade and may be completely removed. A thumb-screw tightens the stock in place. The combo square can be used to check inside and outside corners for 90 and 45 degrees. It can be used as a marking gauge to draw a parallel line against an edge, and the blade can be used to measure the depth of a hole or mortise (notch). The stock features a bubble vial for checking level and plumb.

LEVELS Both a 2-foot and a 4-foot level are handy for determining if an object is indeed level. When the bubble rests evenly between the marks on the vial, the tool is level (or plumb). The longer a level’s length, the greater its accuracy. However, in many cases a 4-foot level is too long and cumbersome for a small job, making the 2-foot version a better option.

003 SCREW IT BETTER

As your projects get more complex, you’ll want to consider adding to your screwdriver collection.

MULTIPURPOSE This option can reduce the number of tools you need to carry with you. A variety of bits, usually stored in the handle, insert into a hexagonal drive shaft. Compare models to find the best bit selection for you.

MINI Eyeglasses, mobile phones, computers, and personal electronics often have very small screws, which in turn will require very small screwdrivers. Minis are available in flat-head, Phillips, Torx™, Pozidriv, and more.

RATCHETING As with a socket wrench, the quick-drive ratcheting action drives screws fast while “freewheeling” in the opposite direction. This eliminates the need for the user to release and re-grip the screwdriver, saving time and labor.

CORDLESS A rechargeable battery-powered screwdriver can be fitted with any number bits in a wide range of sizes and drive-styles. When you’re dealing with a lot of screws, you’ll appreciate the high-productive efficiency this basic power tool brings to your projects. Keep one on the charger for grab-and-go convenience.

004 SMOOTH THINGS OUT

Whether you’re removing paint or prepping a new piece of furniture to stain and finish, sanding will be a necessary step in the process. The abrasive particles in the sandpaper are graded and numbered as “grit,” indicating how coarse or fine these particles are. A good approach for a DIYer is to select three grits to have on hand. Start with the sandpaper that’s just coarse enough to get rid of the worst surface defects. An 80-grit sandpaper is usually a good place to start. However, coarse grits will leave fine scratches on the wood, so the next step will be to turn these large scratches into smaller scratches with a finer paper of around 120-grit. For the final sanding phase, sandpaper at 220-grit will work for most types of wood. Wood with dense grain may require finer grits, such as 320-grit, to remove the last of the scratches, thus resulting in a smooth, ready-to-finish surface.

Power sanders do the work for you. Small palm sanders can smooth a wood surface in preparation for staining and sealing. Aggressive belt sanders can tear away an old wood surface with ferocious efficiency. And oscillating disc sanders strike a balance between aggressive material removal and finish-sanding.

005 SPLURGE ON THESE TOOLS

Many people find themselves buying expensive tools they almost never use. Be smart about purchases, but sometimes it does make sense to spend the money, as in the following cases.

STUD FINDER If you plan to hang anything heavy on a wall, you’ll need to mount it into a solid stud in the wall’s framing. To do so, you must first locate the stud. When passed over a wall, an electronic stud finder uses internal sensors to find the stud and signal its location for you to mark.

WORK LIGHTS Task-specific lighting in the form of tripod flashlights or LED headlamps are great for DIY. These low-wattage, low-heat lights come in handy beneath sinks, inside closets, and in any work circumstance when the power has been shut off.

NAIL-PULLING PLIERS Remodeling work will usually involve demolition, which often necessitates removing all those nails and fasteners installed by the original builder. A hammer claw won’t grab onto a headless brad nail, and standard pliers don’t offer adequate leverage for pulling them out. To remove pesky old nails, invest in specialty pliers constructed with an angled head to grip and pry them loose.

LASER MEASURING DEVICE A relative newcomer to the hardware store shelves, this tool is also called a distance meter, range finder, or laser “tape” measure, depending upon the manufacturer, and is great for taking precise measurements. Once you have the laser aimed, just press a button and the device calculates the distance and then displays it on the screen. This measurement is taken with precision laser optics that accurately measure the distance of the beam that hits a target object.

006 DRILL DOWN ON OPTIONS

You’ll find a wide range of electric drills in corded and cordless versions. With a corded drill you will always have 120 volts of power, more than enough juice to power the biggest drill that you’re apt to use. A battery-powered cordless drill offers freedom of movement without being tethered to an outlet, but it requires time to recharge the battery and, depending on the size of the drill, the battery can add significant size and weight to the tool. Specifically designed and geared to bore holes in a variety of materials, drills come in a range of power classes and tool sizes, but most DIYers prefer a cordless drill/driver combo. Here are some other options as well.

DRILL/DRIVER A combination drill/driver offers variable speed adjustment to function as a versatile drill as well as a powered screwdriver. The ability to reduce speed and torque increases user control for screwdriving applications.

IMPACT DRIVER Specifically made for fastening applications, an impact driver employs an internal anvil to deliver much higher rotational torque than conventional drill/drivers. When the power needed to drive the fastener exceeds the torque of the tool’s rotational force, a drive gear with two matching lugs strikes the anvil to nudge the bit along.

HAMMER DRILL Fastening items to concrete or masonry often requires boring a hole, inserting an anchor of some sort, then bolting or screwing the item in place. Drilling pilot holes into these harder materials is most easily accomplished with a masonry bit attached to a hammer drill, which uses an electro-mechanical hammering system. This consists of a gear assembly that delivers an impact to the chuck ranging from 20,000 to more than 50,000 blows per minute. A good choice for a DIYer is an 18-volt drill/driver that offers a hammer-drill function.

007 AVOID TEAROUT

To drill perfect holes in fine woodwork with no tearout, there are two possible methods.

METHOD 1 Use a backer board that’s clamped to the workpiece. Select a good-quality bit with a starting point and side cutters, such as a Forstner or brad point. The bit treats the two clamped pieces of wood as a single piece.

METHOD 2 For applications in which a precise hole is not required, use a spade bit to drill out the hole. When you’ve just about pierced the back side, stop and flip the workpiece over. Use the hole pierced through the back side of the workpiece as a centering guide, and finish off the hole from the back side.

008 GET THE RIGHT DRILL BIT

Drill bits are indispensable tools, and new technologies are giving all these toolbox staples more cutting power than ever before. The standard twist-type drill bit is the most commonly produced drill bit available, and it’s suited for a wide range of general-purpose tasks. However, the world is made up of a lot of different materials, and the right bit makes a big difference in drilling performance.

Bit Type: Spade

Description: Has a flat, paddle-like shape with two cutting edges flanking a spur, which guides the trajectory of the drilling

Uses: For quick drilling of large holes intended for rough-in work such as framing, plumbing and electrical work; the aggressive cutting and high-speed action can leave a splintery hole

Bit Type: Countersink

Description: Has an adjustable twist bit that locks into the countersink body with a set screw

Uses: Allows you to simultaneously pre-drill screw holes in wood and countersink the holes for recessed screw heads

Bit Type: Twist

Description: Point angle is between 90 and 150 degrees; 118 degrees is the most common point

Uses: Sharper points work for aggressive cutting into softer materials; the shallower tip is designed for drilling harder materials such as drilling steel (but requires a starter hole)

Bit Type: Forstner

Description: Forstner bits have a center spur as a guide and radial cutting edges that shear wood fibers at the edge and bottom of the hole, creating a smooth bore with an exact diameter

Uses: Forstner bits are the best choice for drilling precise, flat-bottomed holes in wood. They can cut on the edge of a block of wood to create channels and can also be used to create overlapping holes

Bit Type: Concrete/masonry

Description: Has a chisel-like tungsten carbide tip to break up stone, brick, or concrete, while the flutes pull back the chipped material

Uses: Excellent for installing wiring and plumbing into existing concrete, blocks, or bricks, as well as drilling pilot holes to set fasteners into concrete

Bit Type: Brad point

Description: Has a spur with a sharp point in the tip

Uses: The brad point’s tip penetrates the work surface to hold the bit in position, while the sharp corners drill a clean hole in wood or plastic

Bit Type: Hole saw

Description: A cup-shaped bit set with a repeating pattern of teeth

Uses: Made to cut out large circles or cores of wood for tasks ranging from plumbing to installing doorknobs

Bit Type: Glass and tile

Description: Some feature spear-pointed carbide tips; some feature hole saw–type cylinders with diamond-grit cutting edges

Uses: Accurate drilling for fastener holes in ceramic tile, marble, china, mirrors, and glass. The bits are ideal for drilling in bathroom tile or wall mirrors. (Use water spray to cool down the cutting)

009 SORT OUT SAWS

From metal and masonry to plastics and wood, you’ll use a saw on virtually every major home project. There’s a wide range of options out there for both general and specific uses. Here are all the basics you’re likely to run into as you plan basic home DIY projects.

HANDHELD CIRCULAR SAW No other power saw can perform as many cutting tasks in such an affordable, storage-friendly package. Ripping, crosscutting, plunge cutting and more; circular saws do it all and can even make partial kerfs, beveled edges, and compound angles.

MITER SAW From deck building to intricate finish carpentry, a miter saw utilizes a circular blade to crosscut boards at the critical angles to build inside and outside corners. If you have a compound miter saw, not only can you turn the saw for a miter, you can tilt the blade to cut a bevel as well.

TABLE SAW Although table saws can crosscut short boards, their primary purpose is to rip long boards into thinner workpieces. A circular blade protrudes through a smooth table surface to cut the material as you feed it into the blade. Since the user guides the material along a rip fence, table saws offer superior control and accuracy for long rips and bevels.

JIGSAW Also called saber saws, jigsaws are exceptionally useful tools for making tight, intricate cuts. The traditional “jigsaw” puzzle’s tightly curved and complex network of cutout pieces demonstrates the saw’s maneuverability. The straight, narrow blade can make curves, small holes, and detailed cuts that larger blades can’t accomplish.

RECIPROCATING SAW Similar in design to a jigsaw, a reciprocating saw is larger and more aggressive. These versatile straight-bladed tools are designed to make cutouts and cutoffs, disassemble wood framing, trim branches, make tough cuts in tight quarters, and much more.

BAND SAW Commonly used to cut curves, a band saw consists of a pair of wheels that hold a narrow band of toothed metal. This band rides on the wheels in the same vertical plane, and a steel table is used to guide the workpiece into the cutting edge. A band saw can rip thick lumber into thinner slabs as well as cut metal and other materials. Portable versions are also available.

010 DO IT BY HAND

HANDSAWS The basic handsaw is good for large, rough cuts, plus it works when no power is available. When used with a miter box for improved accuracy, handsaws can also make angled cuts.

COPING SAWS Handsaws with a thin, flexible blade, they are used to make very small, detailed cuts for joining trim carpentry such as crown molding.

011 USE THE RIGHT TERMS

Different saws are made to make different cuts, so you should know all the terms.

RIP CUT To rip a board is to cut it into thin boards of equal length, sawing parallel to the wood grain.

CROSSCUT This means to cut a board down into shorter lengths of equal width, sawing perpendicular to the wood grain.

MITER This refers to an angled crosscut for joining two boards at an angled joint.

BEVEL A bevel is a cut that is made when the saw’s blade is tilted at any angle other than 90 degrees.

012 GET INTO A SPIRAL (SAW)

From drywall and carpentry to flooring and HVAC, very few tools offer the versatility of a spiral saw. Originally designed to make drywall cutouts an easy chore, the RotoZip is a construction-grade spiral saw that uses thin cylindrical bits, similar to drill bits, but with the ability to make lateral cuts along the shank. Equipped with the right bit, the tool can cut through virtually any building material up to 1 inch thick. A RotoZip can also be equipped with a circular saw attachment.

Smaller rotary tools, such as a Dremel, function in the same manner, but they operate with variable speed and can be outfitted as detail sanders for working around odd shapes and small nooks in woodwork. When equipped with small sanding drums, Dremels are frequently used for craft projects and millwork, such as window and door casings.

Both the heavy-duty RotoZip and the DIY-friendly Dremel are available in corded and cordless models and usually come with multiple attachments. Spiral saws are generally used with a depth-gauge attachment that rests flush against the cutting surface, and the bit is raised or lowered via an adjustable sleeve around the head of the saw. The right bits can cut through a wide range of material from wood and metal to tile or cement board.

For grout removal, you can select an angled depth gauge for your spiral saw to slide smoothly along the tile surface. These attachments are used in conjunction with specialized heavy-duty, grout-removal cutting bits.

013 MEET THE MULTI-TOOL

The oscillating multi-tool is quickly becoming a must-have item, as it can equip a variety of different blades for notching wood, cutting metal, removing grout, sanding, making electrical cutouts, and much more. By utilizing high-speed oscillation, these versatile instruments can scrape, sand, make cuts flush with adjacent materials, and more, using a broad assortment of accessory blades. This allows the user to perform either fine detail work or to tackle more aggressive applications.

014 SCOUT OUT ROUTERS

Routers are used to hollow out or “rout” an area in the face of a workpiece. The router has a broad base and a bit projecting beyond its base plate. Depending on the router, the bit can be guided into the edge of a workpiece or plunged into the surface, where it cuts any number of straight, curved, or decorative profiles.

FIXED BASE The tool’s base plate is attached in a fixed position to the motor, which is a great setup for cutting a profile in the edge of a board. Smaller trim routers take advantage of the fixed-base design to cut down on tool weight, which makes them easier to maneuver.

PLUNGE ROUTER Both the motor and cutter head slide along guide bars that are attached to the base. Plunge routers can begin cutting the center of a piece of wood, where the router bit is lowered or “plunged” into the workpiece. However, plunge routers often cost more and are heavier than fixed-base models.

015 GET A GOOD COMPRESSOR

The most popular air compressors among DIYers and pros are midsize portable units that can be carried to a job site while still providing ample power. Here are factors to consider when making a choice.

OUTPUT The most important rating for any size air compressor is the standard cubic feet per minute (SCFM) output. To determine the size of compressor you need, first consider the tools you will use. The tool that has the highest SCFM rating will be your guideline for choosing a compressor. For the best results, purchase a compressor with an output of 1.5 times that rating. For example, if you want to use an impact wrench that requires 5.0 SCFM, you would purchase a compressor that puts out 7.5 SCFM. If you anticipate using multiple tools simultaneously, add the SCFM requirements for all tools that will be used at one time, and multiply the sum by 1.5.

TANK SIZE If you’ll be using tools that require a high volume of air for continuous use, such as a pneumatic sander, then you need a larger tank. If you only intend to use the tool for intermittent use, your compressor can have a smaller tank size. For intermittent use, you can save money by choosing a unit with a smaller pump/motor (the most costly part of the unit) and a larger tank. A large enough tank with a pump that exceeds the SCFM requirement of your tools will allow the compressor time to cool between cycles. Tools requiring only quick bursts of air, such as brad and finish nailers, will deplete the tank much more slowly, so a 2- to 6-gallon tank should suffice.

016 GET SOME AIR

Air power is great way to take your home shop to the next level. Whether you need to run anything a framing nailer or a sandblaster, the right air compressor can handle the job. These versatile, economical machines, provide a single power source for a wide range of tools. Small inflators can air up basketballs and leaky car tires. Larger, compressors can be used in construction; there are also professional-grade stationary models for carpentry shops and automotive garages.

An air compressor is only as useful as the set of pneumatic tools that do the work. They require connection to a compressor hose, but air tools offer significant advantages over their electric cousins. They don’t need their own motors, so air tools are more compact, lighter, and easier to handle—with less moving parts to malfunction.

Versatility is another advantage. You can easily switch tools at a single compressor, including a ratchet wrench, paint sprayer, angle nailer, finish nailer, or impact wrench.

017 RENT THE BIG STUFF

A heavy, bulky item like a plate compactor can be not only cost prohibitive, but require storage space and maintenance as well. However, your local equipment rental outlet can provide you a well-maintained tool at a reasonable price, and then take it back off your hands. Some public libraries even maintain a tool library with equipment that locals can check out for little or no cost.

Common rental items include generators for remote power supply, plate compactors for tamping down foundations and patios, jackhammers for concrete demolition, and blowers for installing cellulose insulation. If you’re working in the dark you can rent lighting equipment. If you’re working in the cold, you can rent a kerosene heater. Check out your local supplier to explore the many rental options.

018 POWER UP

You may want to look into a generator that can be used if the power goes down for an extended time. You will need an adequate electrical to run large appliances or multiple tools simultaneously. High-power generators, however, cost more to purchase and require more room for storage.

To calculate wattage requirements, first make a list of all electrical devices you will be powering at one time with the generator. Next to each device, list the greater of the running or starting wattage. (If only the running wattage for a device with an electric motor is known, estimate the starting wattage to be at least three times the running wattage.)

If wattage is not given on the nameplate, the wattage may be calculated by multiplying the nameplate voltage by nameplate amperage. For example, 120 volts X 5 amps = 600 watts.

Add the wattages for all devices on your list. Choose a generator with a higher continuous output rating than the sum total wattage.

You can increase the number of devices your generator can power by staggering the load on the generator. For example, you could alternately power your refrigerator and air conditioner for limited periods of time.

019 GET STUCK ON GLUES

The glue aisle of a hardware store is cluttered with countless tubes and bottles, and it can be pretty tough to determine the right product for the job. The table below should help determine the best adhesive for the application at hand. For any home project, it’s helpful to know the glue’s setting time (how long until it’s initially bonded), drying time (when the adhesive is dry), and curing time (when it’s fully bonded). Err on the side of caution: Keep the project clamped longer than needed to avoid messy and annoying failures.

TYPE OF GLUE

Wood glue

USED FOR

As the name would suggest, it’s for joining wood.

SETTING TIME

20 to 30 minutes

DRYING TIME

1 hour

CURING TIME

24 hours

Superglue

USED FOR

Also sold as Krazy Glue, cyanoacrylates are good choices for metal, glass, ceramics, plastic, and rubber.

SETTING TIME

5 to 15 minutes

DRYING TIME

1 hour

CURING TIME

24 hours

Silicone adhesive

USED FOR

Often used in plumbing projects or for glass repair; crates a flexible, waterproof bond for metal, glass, rubber, wood, and ceramics.

SETTING TIME

5 minutes

DRYING TIME

1 hour

CURING TIME

24 hours

Epoxy

USED FOR

Epoxy consists of two parts—an adhesive resin and an activator/hardener—that mix to form an extremely durable, waterproof bond that works best on rigid surfaces like metal, ceramics, and plastics.

SETTING TIME

5 minutes to 2 hours

DRYING TIME

12 hours

CURING TIME

24 to 48 hours

Hot glue

USED FOR

This comes in stick form and must be used with heated glue guns. It creates fast-setting, moderately strong bonds, ideal for lightweight materials and temporary adhesion.

SETTING TIME

15 to 30 seconds

DRYING TIME

5 to 10 minutes

CURING TIME

24 hours

Spray adhesive

USED FOR

This glue disperses in fine droplets to provide a thin, uniform bonding surface that works best on lightweight materials such as paper, fabric, and small or thin pieces of plastic, wood, and metal.

SETTING TIME

Low-tack formulas will give you a few minutes before it sets; high-tack will set instantly

DRYING TIME

30 minutes

CURING TIME

24 hours

Expandable glue

USED FOR

Known under brand names such as Gorilla Glue, these polyurethane-based products have foaming properties that expand and fill cracks in the material to create an extremely durable bond once cured, ideal for heavy-duty materials including wood, metal, ceramics, glass, plastic, and stone.

SETTING TIME

Varies depending on type

DRYING TIME

1 to 2 hours, or 30 minutes for fast-dry type

CURING TIME

24 hours

Construction adhesive

USED FOR

This industrial-grade adhesive is sold in caulking tubes used in conjunction with fasteners for adhering plywood, cement board, treated lumber, and other building materials. Polyurethane-based versions are available for bonding plastics, vinyl, ceramics, mirrors, granite, and marble.

SETTING TIME

15 minutes to 1 hour

DRYING TIME

24 hours

CURING TIME

24 hours to 7 days, depending on product

020 CLAMP DOWN

Here are the clamps you should consider adding to your burgeoning toolbox.

C-CLAMP The most basic and versatile member of this family can be used to hold together items you’re gluing. Typically made of steel or cast iron, they tighten using a large, threaded screw.

SPRING CLAMPS They resemble giant clothespins and make a handy third hand to hold items for small repairs, painting, or gluing.

BAR CLAMPS An adjustable lower jaw slides on a bar to bracket the work, and a threaded screw tightens the clamp with impressive force. Consider investing in a variety of sizes.

PIPE CLAMPS Clamp hardware that you add to your own pipe. Cut the ½-inch- or ¾-inch-diameter pipe as long or short as you want it.

BENCH CLAMPS They look like only half a clamp because bench clamps are bolted to a workbench, and the single upper jaw holds work securely down onto the tabletop.

STRAP CLAMP Utilizing a flexible band, strap clamps are designed for clamping rectangular, round, or any irregularly shaped projects.

ANGLE CLAMPS Apply multidirectional pressure to 90-degree mitered corners.

BENCH VISE Often used for metalwork, this heavy-duty metal clamp is typically bolted to a workbench and used to hold an object securely while work is performed on it.

021 GLUE IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME

When gluing wood pieces together, make sure all surfaces are smooth and clean. The adhesive can be applied with a glue-bottle applicator tip, but it’s important to evenly coat the wood surface. Thin strips of wood can be used as “paddles” to smooth out beads of glue to more thoroughly coat the surface of narrow joint pieces. If coating larger surfaces, such as when gluing down veneers, a roller is the best choice for a smooth and thorough application.

022 STICK TO IT

The right tape can work wonders for quick repairs, and some are made for specific purposes around the house. Here are the most widely used tapes for the do-it-yourself crowd..

TYPE

Duct tape

USES

This is an excellent general-purpose tape for quick fixes, temporary bonds, and emergency repairs. Use it to bundle wires, seam together floor underlayment, or patch a vacuum hose.

GOOD TO KNOW

Newer versions have twice the adhesive as standard duct tape.

Not meant for use on ducts!

Foil tape

USES

This tape is the best choice for use on home air ducts.

GOOD TO KNOW

High-quality adhesive foil tape is more tolerant of temperature changes and creates a tighter seal than duct tape.

Painter’s tape

USES

Use it to mask off areas for crisp color lines and to protect areas you don’t want painted.

GOOD TO KNOW

Some new versions are treated with an absorbent polymer that reacts with latex paint and instantly gels to form a seal against paint bleed.

Electrical tape

USES

Use this to bundle and splice electrical wires.

GOOD TO KNOW

Most commonly made of vinyl, it’s thin and stretchable to provide long-lasting insulation of electrical wires.

Self-fusing tape

USES

This is a non-tacky, silicone-rubber tape that, when stretched and wrapped around hoses, cables, and pipes, fuses to itself to form a seamless rubbery bond that is waterproof and insulates electrical connections.

GOOD TO KNOW

This handy multipurpose repair tape is sold under brand names such as Rescue Tape and Mighty Fixit tape.

Thread seal tape

USES

This tape is a thin polytetrafluoroethylene film used for sealing pipe threads.

GOOD TO KNOW

It lubricates the connection for a deeper seating of the threads, and it also fills minor deformities to create a better seal.

Drywall tape

USES

Combine it with joint compound to seam drywall to prepare a new wall or ceiling for primer and paint.

GOOD TO KNOW

It’s available in paper and fiberglass versions.

023 SEAL UP WINDOWS

Window insulation kits sold at hardware stores and home centers come with double-sided adhesive tape and a large sheet of plastic film. Apply the tape around the window frame on all four sides, and then apply the film onto the tape so it completely covers the window, creating a sealed air space. Cut away the excess film and use a hair dryer to heat-shrink the film so it tightens the seal and shows no wrinkles.

024 USE FOIL TAPE GENTLY

Measure and cut the length of tape you need by pulling it off the roll and holding it against the duct seam. Foil tape has a paper backing that’s removed prior to application. Peel about 2 inches of backing, apply the adhesive end to the seam with one hand while holding the backing with the other, and slowly peel it away as you wrap the seam. Foil tape is very tacky; if the adhesive side folds on itself, it’ll tear before releasing. Press down the tape evenly with a straight edge such as a credit card.

025 WRAP THREAD SEAL TAPE

Employ thread seal tape on any threaded plumbing connections (not gas) that don’t already have a rubber seal. After cleaning the male threads of a pipe with a rag, place the end of the tape on the second thread (not first), hold it in place with one hand, and wrap the tape 3 to 6 times in the same direction that the fitting will be tightened, which is usually clockwise. Wrapping against the thread direction might cause the mating threads to unwrap the tape when the connection is screwed together.

026 PRESS IT DOWN

Paint rollers and brushes leave a slightly uneven, stippled surface on the wall. When you’re masking a room to repaint it, the flat underside of the painter’s tape can bridge these irregularities and cause paint to bleed past the tape edge. To help improve surface contact with the wall and ensure the best adhesion, use a small rubber roller to press down the tape.

027 LEVEL UP

Just about everyone has used a basic carpenter’s level or a small torpedo level. They are still incredibly useful tools, but widening your (level) horizons may be helpful for a wider range of DIY projects. Here are some options to consider.

6-FOOT LEVEL This option is even more accurate than a 4-footer for critical installations such as door installation, where the hinges need to be perfectly plumb for the door to swing properly.

STRING LEVEL The longer a level is, the greater its accuracy. Sometimes the hardware store doesn’t carry a version that’s long enough, in which case a string level can help save the day. Pull a string tight between two points then hook the string level (a short cartridge with a bubble vial) onto it. Keep adjusting the string until the bubble reads level.

MAGNETIC LEVEL This option can attach to pipes and other metal objects to determine level or plumb, and it frees your hands while you work.

POST LEVEL A bifold level with multiple vials, this can be strapped around a fence post or support column to check for plumb in several directions at once.

028 ENJOY THE LASER SHOW

If you’re an ambitious DIYer with a house where you’ll be painting, installing trimwork, hanging pictures, mounting shelves or cabinetry, then a laser layout tool may be well worth the investment. To project perfectly plumb and level guidelines onto walls and ceilings. We recommend buying a model that easily mounts to a common camera tripod so you can position it at any location with adjustable height.

029 USE A MULTIPURPOSE SPEED SQUARE

The Speed square is a five-in-one layout tool that offers a handy balance of simplicity and versatility. A Speed square is a very useful 90-degree shape that makes a quick marking gauge for simple crosscuts.

The long side is oriented at 45 degrees for use as a miter gauge.

The lip of the tool holds it square to the edge of a board.

The ¼-inch-spaced notches are excellent for guiding a carpenter’s pencil as you slide the square down its length for rip cuts.

Marked gradations make it easy to read and mark accurate degrees for angled cuts.

Once you’ve marked a crosscut, simply slide over the Speed square and use its straight edge to guide your saw’s footplate during the cut.

030 GET YOUR GEAR TOGETHER

Painting a home’s interior is hands down the most popular DIY project. New colors can dramatically change a room’s décor and completely alter the look and feel of the living space. Here are the essential tools you’ll need for your basic painting tool kit.

PAINTER’S TAPE Essential for masking off anything you don’t want to paint.

PAINTBRUSH Your go-to application tools for trimwork, details, and tight spots.

PAINT ROLLER Applies paint to large, flat surfaces quickly and efficiently.

PAINT TRAY Holds a modest amount of paint or primer while you paint.

DROP CLOTH Protects flooring and furniture from accidental messes while painting.

SANDPAPER AND ABRASIVES Smooth down surfaces in preparation for painting.

PAINT SCRAPER Removes old, loose paint and preps surfaces for new paint.

031 APPLY YOUR PAINT

Paint jobs need brushes for fine detail and trim, and rollers for main surfaces. Here’s what to use.

BRUSHES For latex paint you’ll need synthetic bristles; for oil-based paint or varnish, choose a good-quality natural-bristle brush. The better the quality of natural bristles, the smoother the paint finish will be. You’ll regret buying a super cheap brush when the bristles fall out of the brush and stick to your new paint surface. Brush handles are made of a variety of wood or plastics and come in several shapes and sizes. Choose a handle that feels comfortable in your hand for the type of work you’re doing. Smaller trim brushes are intended for tight spaces, and some have tapered bristles to get into grooves and corners. Larger brushes are less accurate but apply paint more quickly. Keep a variety of brushes on hand for remodeling and maintenance.

ROLLERS These essential tools are available in small 3- and 4-inch models for tight or small spaces, as well as standard 12-inch sizes for painting walls. Paint rollers consist of a cage (the skeletal frame that spins on a handle) and a cover (the fabric cylinder that applies paint to the wall). The cover consists of the roller nap, which is made from natural or synthetic fibers. The nap is available in various lengths to apply different finishes. In general, ⅜- or ½-inch nap makes a good general-purpose roller cover.

NAP

¼ inch

USES

Smooth surfaces on new walls, ceilings, doors, and trim

⅜ inch

USES

Smooth to lightly stippled walls

½ inch

USES

Most walls and medium-rough surfaces, including textured plaster and concrete

¾ inch

USES

Rough surfaces such as textured walls, concrete, and masonry

032 CLEAN UP

There’s nothing worse than crusty brushes and other tools, so be sure to clean up promptly and correctly. Roller cages and paint trays can be cleaned with either clean water or mineral spirits, depending on the type of paint. Disposable roller covers should be discarded after use. Brushes can be a little trickier. When using water-based latex paint, it’s smart to clean your brushes every 2 hours. Here’s how.

STEP 1 Remove excess paint from the bristles with the edge of a paint scraper and then rinse the bristles with water.

STEP 2 Mix 1 gallon of warm water and ½ cup of fabric softener in a bucket.

STEP 3 Whisk the brush through the mixture for 15 seconds and allow the fabric softener to release the paint.

STEP 4 Remove the brush and spin it thoroughly to dispel the water, then wipe it dry on a towel.

If you’ve been using oil paint, you’ll need more specialized cleaning supplies. As with latex paint, start by removing excess paint with a scraper. Next, clean the brush with mineral spirits for about 10 seconds to break down the binders in the paint. Spin the excess out of the brush, then clean it for 10 to 20 seconds in denatured alcohol to strip out the oils. Finish by whisking the brush for 10 seconds in the fabric softener mixture to recondition the bristles.

033 ORGANIZE TO OPTIMIZE

The workbench is usually the hub of all your shop operations. A common height for workbenches is just a couple of inches below the user’s waistline. The surface should be clear and flat, and its size can be built to fit your needs—before you build or purchase a bench, be sure it makes sense for the size of your miter and/or table saw.

Many people often add an extension panel to their workbench that can fold up level with the tabletop for work with large pieces, and then can unlock and fold out of the way when not needed. Lockable wheels will also allow you to easily move the bench around and then secure it in a stationary position. And don’t forget to outfit the area with a comfortable stool.

034 GET OUT OF THE SHOP

What if you don’t have a whole garage or a spare room to make into a workshop? Although you can optimize interior spaces with shelves and other wall storage, you’re ultimately limited by the size of your house. But overlooked areas of the home can be modified to provide extra storage space. Convert the space beneath a staircase into a closet, build a plywood bin under your deck, add a garden shed for lawn tools, or install a subfloor in the attic to create storage space above the joists. With a little creative thinking, you can find a number of storage options outside the typical work space.

035 STORE SMARTER

You can add significant square footage of elevated storage space by building shelves. Wall-mounted shelves can be hung with store-bought brackets screwed into the framing studs. Two-tiered shelves can be built with simple legs and rails made of 2X4s and shelving made of 2X6s or 2X8s. Screw or nail the shelves together and then use diagonal bracing to keep the structure square. Some workshop shelves utilize 2X2 ladder brackets with three-tiered plywood shelving. Styles vary, but most shop shelves are built with simple construction from inexpensive materials.

WALL-STORAGE SYSTEMS Popular because they make use of otherwise unused wall space to organize tools and supplies, many of these systems consist of slat-wall panels fastened to the wall, which hold various hooks, shelves, and straps to keep items off the floor.

PEGBOARD PANELS These panels, which are mounted to the wall, have long been popular for storing small items including wrenches and screwdrivers. A wide range of hooks and holders can be mounted to the pegboard holes with almost limitless versatility to keep your hand tools handy.

TOOL CABINETS Bigger cabinets are an excellent option for serious DIYers who have a lot of equipment that needs to be sorted by type and application. The number of drawers varies, and many versions include caster wheels to easily roll the cabinet around the shop.

036 DEAL WITH RUST

To avoid rust, always store metal tools away from moisture, and dry them thoroughly if they get wet. Routinely wipe off grease and grime, which can accumulate grit that wears down moving parts and interferes with their function. Keep construction tools rust free with an occasional light coating of lubricating oil. Available in liquid and spray versions, it delivers a colorless oil coating that eases sticking parts, and the thin, wet film can also protect the tools against wear and corrosion.

RENEW RUSTY TOOLS First, clean off the tool using hot water and detergent. For light rust, use steel wool or fine-grit sandpaper; scrub the rust off in thorough circular motions. For heavy corrosion, use a wire brush. Rinse with water, dry the tool and then apply a sufficient amount of solvent or WD-40 to any leftover rust and scrub it away. Repeat until the tool is clean, and apply a protective coat of lubricant before storing it.

HANDLE TOUGH JOBS Renew multiple tools or machinery with small components by using a liquid rust remover, which makes even deep rust disappear without scrubbing. Some removers rely on harsh chemicals, but Evapo-Rust is an environmentally friendly, water-based product that comes in a 3.5-gallon bucket with a dip basket so small parts don’t get lost.

GO NATURAL Combine salt and lemon juice in a container, then apply the solution with steel wool. The salt works as an abrasive, and the acid in the lemon juice cuts through corrosion. Leave the solution on the tool’s surface for a while before scrubbing to agitate the rust. Once the corrosion has been removed, clean and dry the tool with a rag.

037 RECYCLE WHAT YOU CAN

What building material can be recycled and how varies from city to city; check with your local authorities to be sure you’re doing it right. One good thing is that recycling services for hazardous materials are becoming common, at least for some of the more common items such as motor oil, electronics, and batteries.

In fact, 96 percent of all lead-acid batteries are recycled. This includes automobile and lawnmower batteries. Almost any retailer that sells lead-acid batteries collects used batteries for recycling, as required by most state laws. Not only is recycling your battery a responsible environmental decision, but the recycler will typically offer you a battery-core “credit” that reduces the cost of your replacement battery.

038 GREASE IT UP

Lubricants have a wide range of uses—they can loosen tight parts, protect against rust or other damage, and make things run more smoothly. Here are the common types you’ll see.

MULTIPURPOSE SPRAY Popular general-use product that protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture, and lubricates almost anything.

PENETRATING OIL Quickly loosens any corroded bolts, nuts, and parts on hinges, clamps, or frozen shafts/pulleys.

SILICONE SPRAY Provides super-slippery protection in a clear, non-staining film to prevent rust and corrosion; protects rubber gaskets and prevents sticking in cold temperatures.

WHITE LITHIUM GREASE Ideal all-weather application because it will not freeze or melt. Provides long-lasting, heavy-duty grease coat for joints, hinges, and connections.

LUBRICATING OIL Protects objects against moisture, stops squeaks, and loosens any sticking parts on locks, hinges, and garage door rollers. Prevents rust and corrosion on spark plugs, coils, wiring, hand/electric tools, and outdoor power equipment.

DRY LUBRICANT A long-lasting dry film that cuts friction and protects against water and corrosion without staining. Lubricates and silences slides and glides, window tracks, extension ladders, control cables on snow blowers, and more.

CHAIN LUBRICANT Stays in place to help lubricate and prevent corrosion on fast-moving chains or wire cables such as a garage door opener, chain-drive equipment, throttle, and brake.

039 WINTERIZE TOOLS

After the lawn and garden season, you’re going to want to repair and winterize your yard tools so everything’s in great shape when the time rolls around to get outdoors again. Even if you live in a climate where you’ll be using some of those tools most of the year, the turn of the seasons is a good time to take a look at your toolshed and see what needs loving care.

MAINTAIN THE LAWNMOWER If you have major small-engine or lawnmower problems, have them taken care of in fall rather than waiting for spring when all repair shops are busy. Sharpen or replace lawnmower blades. Drain the oil and replace it along with the filter. Drain the gas or add a fuel stabilizer to engines in lawnmowers, pressure washers, generators, or similar items. Do any minor repairs while it’s easier to get parts during the off-season.

STRING IT ALONG Get ready for spring by replacing the line in string trimmers. In cold winter climates, make sure the snowblower is working properly.

DON’T IGNORE HAND TOOLS Clean and sharpen all gardening equipment such as rakes, hoes, shovels, and shears, and give all wooden handles a coating of linseed oil.

040 FIRE IT UP

Don’t wait for a wintertime power outage to discover your generator doesn’t function. Exercise your generator every 4 weeks. Start the engine and let it run for 10 to 15 minutes with a small load plugged in, such as a lamp or fan. Exercising the generator monthly will dry out any moisture that has accumulated in the windings, which could otherwise cause corrosion.

041 RAISE AN EXTENSION LADDER PROPERLY

The easiest way to raise a long extension ladder is to do it with two people. One person “foots” the first rung, holding the bottom of the ladder securely to the ground, as the second person walks toward the house with the other end of the ladder, raising it with the first person’s help, as needed.

STEP 1 If you need to raise the ladder alone, it needs to be collapsed to its shortest height. First, brace the foot of the ladder against the wall and walk it slowly toward the base, rung by rung and hand by hand, until the ladder is upright. Rest the top of the ladder against the wall, roof, or other solid surface. Then lift the base out to a slight angle where it can temporarily rest without your support.

STEP 2 Extension ladders are equipped with a lanyard and pulley to help extend the ladder. To use a lanyard, first foot the bottom rung, then carefully tilt the ladder backward with one hand, and pull the rope with the other to extend the ladder as necessary. Be careful of hazards to nearby power lines or other people.

STEP 3 An extension ladder should be set with the base 1 foot away from the wall for every 4 feet the ladder reaches, or roughly a 75-degree angle.

STEP 4 Once you’ve got it positioned right, you need to secure the feet. The base of the ladder should rest on level ground with the feet flipped into position. On a wooden deck, you can nail a board down behind the feet to act as a cleat and prevent slippage. When setting up on uneven ground, it helps to dig a small trench beneath the high foot of the ladder to level the base.

STEP 5 Make sure all locks are engaged and that the ladder is supported securely at all contact points. If it seems the least bit unstable, tie ropes to the ladder stiles beneath the lowest rung and anchor them to something solid. You can also secure the top of the ladder using rope or wire fastened to a couple of eye screws mounted into the house’s fascia.

042 CHOOSE THE RIGHT LADDER

Your work environment, including the physical size restrictions, is probably the most important factor in determining the type of ladder to use for a given job. Plenty of purpose-built ladders are available for specific jobs. A long extension ladder is required for accessing the roof of multilevel homes, while smaller A-frame ladders and fold-out stepladders make sense for interior jobs like installing crown molding. Multipurpose ladders offer a versatile solution that combines ladder types into a single unit. By articulating like an A-frame and also extending and collapsing just like an extension ladder, a multipurpose ladder can serve as a stepladder, an extension ladder , even a 90-degree ladder (for getting close to walls). By adjusting the length of each side of the ladder independently when in the A-frame mode, a multipurpose ladder can also give access over uneven ground and staircases. Plus, you only have one ladder to store.

043 KNOW YOUR LADDER(S)

Ladders are essential. They can also be awkward, bulky, and hard to store. Here’s what to consider when selecting one.

MATERIALS Ladders are constructed from one of three basic materials: wood, fiberglass, and metal (aluminum). If you’re working near electricity, a metal ladder should be rejected since aluminum conducts electricity. However, if there aren’t any electrical sources in your work area, aluminum is easier to transport.

HEIGHT A ladder must be long enough that the climber does not have to stand on the top rung or step. On the other hand, a straight ladder is too long, for example, if ceiling height prohibits the ladder from being set up at the proper angle (roughly 75 degrees). Likewise, an extension ladder is too long if the ladder extends farther than 3 feet beyond the upper support point. In this case, the portion of the ladder extending above the upper support point can act like a lever and cause its base to move or slide out. Safety standards require a label on the ladder to indicate the highest standing level.

FIT The ladder that you select also must be the right size for both your body and the job at hand. Check the ladder’s duty rating—the maximum safe weight capacity for the task at hand. In other words, the duty rating of a given ladder has to be greater than the total weight of not just the person climbing but also their tools, supplies, and any other objects placed upon the ladder. If the total load outweighs the ladder’s maximum capacity, the ladder could feasibly collapse.

DUTY RATING

Type III 200-pound capacity

LADDER USES

An economical design for light use

Type II 225-pound capacity

LADDER USES

A basic design for those who don’t use a ladder much

Type I 250-pound capacity

LADDER USES

A good all-around ladder for most standard uses

Type IA 300-pound capacity

LADDER USES

A more rugged ladder for the serious DIYer

Type IAA 375-pound capacity

LADDER USES

An extra-tough ladder for professional uses

044 BE STABLE

For work on extension ladders, consider adding a stabilizer accessory to the top ladder. Stabilizers generally consist of extension braces with rubber pads that grip the work surface to help keep the top from slipping sideways. These accessories distribute the load to prevent damage to materials like metal siding. Ladder stabilizers are also made wide enough to span window openings, and they hold the ladder away from the building for easy, unobstructed access to gutters and overhangs.

045 REACH NEW HEIGHTS

When climbing a ladder, you’ll want to emulate rock climbers by using the “three points of contact” rule to reduce the chances of slipping and falling. At all times during ascent or descent, the climber should face the ladder and have two hands and one foot, or two feet and one hand, in contact with the ladder cleats and/or side rails. When working atop a ladder, keep the center of your belt buckle between the ladder side rails (or within the width of the cleats) rather than reaching or leaning too far to one side. It’s also smart to use towlines or a tool belt to keep your hands free when climbing, or recruit an assistant to hand you the items you need. Wear only slip-resistant shoes, preferably with heels and heavy soles, to prevent foot fatigue.

046 SUIT UP FOR SAFETY

Remodeling a home comes with some safety hazards, so to avoid injuries you’ll need to wear the right protective equipment.

SAFETY GLASSES Crucial for shielding your eyes from flying debris during demolition, sawing, drilling, and more. They’re available in many styles and tints, from stylish eyeglass versions to goggles that seal around the perimeter of the eye area.

WORK GLOVES Protect from blisters, cuts, and repetitive stress abrasion to the hands. Work gloves vary greatly in style, and some include padded palms and fingers to absorb the shock and vibration of power tools.

RUBBER GLOVES When working with paint or chemicals, rubber gloves can protect your skin from burns and irritation as well as sticky messes that are tough to clean up. You’ll also appreciate them when working on dirty plumbing projects. Thin nitrile gloves allow dexterity when painting and staining, but heavier rubber gloves with extended cuffs work best for messy plumbing chores.

KNEE PADS Often overlooked by inexperienced DIYers, knee pads don’t just reduce the wear and tear of working on your knees. You should view them as a comfort item that takes the pain out of installing new floors and baseboards—or any jobs where you work in a kneeling position.

RESPIRATOR Fresh air is a popular concept for a lot of good reasons. Use a simple dust mask to prevent inhaling sawdust during basic carpentry work, or use a filtered respirator for work around harsh chemicals, when cutting cement board, and so on.

WORK BOOTS Your feet are susceptible to three primary injuries during construction work: twisting the ankle, a wound from puncturing the sole of the shoe, or an object falling on your foot from above. A quality work boot can firmly support the ankle joint, protect from nails and sharp objects with its thick, solid sole, and steel-toed versions can even protect your toes from falling boards or concrete blocks.

HARD HATS Not just for construction workers, you should use a hard hat any time you’re present beneath a falling hazard, whether a crew of workers is replacing the roof or you’re cutting a dead branch out of a tree.

SAFETY HARNESS Fall-protection equipment saves lives. Attached to a secure area of the roof’s framing by a lanyard, these vest-like harnesses are required for working on roofs or any elevated surface where, if you fall, it would be better not to hit the ground. Many different options are available to suit individual size, comfort needs, and working habits.

047 PUSH IT REAL GOOD

When ripping boards on a table saw or routing boards on a router table, the workpiece should be pushed forward and firmly against the rip fence, guiding it into the blade or bit. Use a “push stick” to push the workpiece completely past the blade to complete the rip or rout. A push stick is a tool made from a 15-inch piece of wood with beveled and notched ends to nudge the end of the workpiece clear of the blade and off the table. This simple tool keeps your hands away from the blade while cutting and is also useful for clearing the table of any wood scraps.

048 SAVE YOUR EARS

Ask an old-time carpenter about hearing protection, and the response is likely to be: “What’d you say?” Exposure to noise is common in construction, and hearing loss is prevalent. DIYers should use earmuffs or earplugs to protect against noise from power tools such as air compressors, impact drivers, circular saws, and the like.

049 CHARGE AHEAD WISELY

You can perform most electrical work inside the home safely, but it’s still important to shut off the power supply before getting on the job. Shut off the circuit you’re working on at the circuit breaker box by flipping a breaker switch or unscrewing a fuse. This box should be labeled to help identify the appropriate circuits, but you should always verify that the power is off by testing the line with a voltage meter, which should read zero if there is no electrical current. Test all the wires in the outlet box (not just the ones you’re working on), because more than one circuit might be running into the box.

While the power is off, post a sign on the breaker box warning other people not to reconnect power while you’re working on the electricity. Use tools with rubber-insulated handles, and avoid touching metal while working around electricity. Wear non-conductive rubber-soled shoes, and never do this type of work in a wet environment. Most importantly, don’t attempt an electrical repair or installation unless you know what you’re doing.

Repairs to the outdoor service drop and the wires that feed the main shutoff to the breaker box should be left to your utility company.

050 STORE IT SAFELY

When it comes to DIY home improvement, “safety” should be your middle name. The improper storage of household chemicals can be hazardous to your family’s health and the environment.

CONTAIN CORRECTLY Store all chemicals in their original labeled containers that list directions, ingredients, and first-aid steps in case of accidental poisoning. Use child-resistant packaging correctly, and close the container tightly for storage.

KEEP AWAY FROM FLAME Store flammable liquids outside your living area and far away from any ignition source such as a furnace, car, outdoor grill, or lawnmower.

BE PESTICIDE SMART Don’t stockpile any pesticides; buy only the amount that you’ll need in the near future or during the season when the pests are active. Follow all storage instructions on the pesticide label, and keep them out of reach of children and pets. If at all possible, store all pesticides in a locked cabinet in a well-ventilated area and never in cabinets near food, animal feed, or medical supplies. Avoid storing them where flooding is possible or where the chemicals might spill or leak into wells, drains, groundwater, or surface water.

051 GET THE LEAD OUT

Homes built as recently as 1978 may have paint that contains lead. Dust and chips from disrupted or degraded lead paint can cause serious health problems for the occupants of the house. Test sticks, which are available at home centers and paint stores, can easily detect the presence of lead in paint. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when testing the paint; the tip of the stick should turn red if it contains lead. For guidance on how to have lead paint safely removed from your home, contact the local authorities or the Environmental Protection Agency at www.epa.gov.

052 AVOID ASBESTOS

Asbestos can be found in building materials manufactured before 1978, such as vinyl and linoleum flooring and textured ceiling spray. It has long, thin fibers that can damage the lungs when breathed, which can cause scarring that can lead to cancer. Undisturbed asbestos usually poses no danger, and in some cases the material can be covered with new flooring to contain it.

Do not attempt to remove asbestos yourself. Standard respirators will be inadequate, and any damaged asbestos can send airborne fibers throughout your house. Check with state and local guidelines about professional asbestos-removal services located in your area.

053 TEST FOR RADON GAS

Radon gas sounds like something out of a scary 1950s sci-fi movie, but it’s an actual danger you should take seriously. Radon is a radioactive gas that occurs naturally in soil from the breakdown of uranium. It can rise up from cracks in a home’s foundation, or through other cracks or holes. It’s a cancer risk that’s associated with as many as 20,000 deaths a year in the United States alone.

The good news is that you can test for radon simply and cost-effectively, and if you find high levels, there are simple steps that you can take to mitigate the danger. Newer homes have likely been built to be radon-safe, but you should still test for the gas, just to be sure.

You can’t see, smell, or taste radon, but it can be detected with a simple home test, which you can purchase at home-improvement stores or online through a number of other sources. Follow the instructions carefully; if you have a questionable result, test again in a week.

If you should discover that your home is contaminated by radon gas, don’t panic. There are several proven methods you can employ to reduce radon in your home; the most common is a “soil-suction system,” a pipe-and-fan system that pulls radon from beneath the house and vents it to the outside. Sealing any foundation cracks or other openings will make this system more effective and cost-efficient. Research what is the best for your home’s structure and then act accordingly.

054 GET WIRED

Typical electrical supply wire for home use comes in an insulated sleeve that contains three wires. The black wire carries electrical current and is usually called the “hot” wire. The white wire is “neutral,” and, finally, a bare copper wire is the ground wire. When electrical wires are joined each of them must be hooked to its mate: black to black, white to white, ground to ground. Otherwise, the circuit will not work.

USE THE RIGHT SIZE Electrical wiring can come in different gauges, or sizes. The smaller the number, the heavier the gauge. Heavier-gauge wire is thicker and can carry more electrical current without overheating. So, for example, 12-gauge wire is heavier and will carry more of a load than 14-gauge wire.

MATCH THE BREAKERS Electrical wire and circuit breakers are designed to work in tandem and must correspond correctly in size. For example, 14/2-gauge electrical wire is rated to a maximum of 15 amps and should not be used with any circuit breaker larger than 15 amps; 12/2-gauge wiring is rated to a maximum of 20 amps. These two sizes are the standard used in most homes today for lighting and wall outlets.

BE SAFE It is imperative to know the proper gauge wire and circuit breaker required for any given application. If the wrong gauge wire is used with the wrong size breaker, it can result in a fire or a malfunctioning electrical circuit. If too small a wire is used with a high-amp breaker, the wire can overheat and catch fire before the breaker ever trips. On the other hand, if a wire is too large then the breaker may continuously trip, disrupting the circuit before the wire ever reaches maximum load.

055 CONNECT IT RIGHT

Replacing light switches and wall outlets are great DIY projects. Building codes limit how many outlets and/or lights a particular circuit can have and even where they can be placed. Consult your local and state building codes before beginning any electrical work.

Switch and outlets are similar in that they have screws on both sides for connecting wires. The green screws are for the ground wires, the silver/stainless screws are for the white neutral wires, and the brass-colored screws are for the black “hot” wires. Wires are attached by bending the end into a hook shape that fits around the screws on each side of the outlet or switch to make a secure connection when tightened.

LIGHT SWITCHES To connect a switch, route the ends of the two wires into the switch box, strip the ends, and then connect the white wires together with a wire nut. Connect the ground wires together by securing them around the green screw on the bottom of the switch. The black wires are each attached to the switch, one to each brass screw on the right-hand side.

PLUGS Receptacles (plugs or outlets) are all connected in a row, so to speak, by attaching the white wires to the silver/stainless metal screws on one side and connecting the black wires to the brass screws on the other side. The ground wire connects to the green screw at the bottom.

056 GO NUTS

For applications such as wiring a light, the fixture’s wires are joined to the electrical supply wires with wire nuts. Like the wire itself, wire nuts come in different sizes to accommodate the various gauges of wire. To connect, strip back the insulation from the ends of the wires, hold them between your fingers, and use pliers to twist the wire nut onto the ends in a clockwise direction.

057 POWER UP

Every DIY homeowner should have a general understanding of the wiring that runs throughout the house. Electricity enters every home by traveling through a power meter supplied by the local utility company, then, in most cases, through a master 200-amp circuit breaker, and then to the home’s breaker box. The flow of electricity is spread over numerous circuits to different parts of the home by first passing through individual circuit breakers that serve as a safety mechanism to prevent the system from overloading (and short-circuiting). A home’s electrical system is designed to work off 120 volts with the exception of certain major appliances, such as an electric clothes dryer, which runs off 240 volts.

Before you do anything, always disconnect the electrical power supply before working with any part of the electrical system. Use a voltage meter on the circuit to verify it is off.

058 KNOW YOUR PIPES

A range of pipes carry water to and through your home, and they may be made of a variety of materials. Here’s what you may find.

PVC The most commonly used plastic piping material, PVC (polyvinyl chloride) was developed to replace cast iron and galvanized steel pipe because it’s less expensive, easier to install, and will never corrode. It’s made for both pressurized and non-pressure applications, including DWV applications, sewer hookups, water service, irrigation, and conduit.

CPVC PVC’s “cousin,” this similar material has an increased chlorine content that allows it to withstand a wider range of temperatures. Many building codes require the use of CPVC as opposed to PVC for hot-water applications; check those related codes before beginning any relevant project.

ABS A rigid plastic pipe developed for DWV systems, typically black or dark gray in color. It’s inexpensive and easy to cut but is susceptible to cracking over time and is not allowed by some local plumbing codes.

COPPER Available as either rigid pipe or flexible tubing, copper has been the most popular supply line used in residential systems in the last several decades. It is durable, resistant to bacteria and corrosion, and unaffected by ultraviolet rays, so it can be exposed for outdoor applications—and it’s also recyclable.

059 TRY SOMETHING NEW

Cross-linked polyethylene (also called PEX) is becoming a new standard for indoor pipes. This stuff is resistant to extreme temperatures and stress as well as to chemical damage from acids and alkalines. The material is flexible and suitable for use in temperatures below freezing and up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit, including potable water. PEX is easy to thread through stud holes without binding against the wood like a rigid copper pipe can do. When a pipe reaches a corner, simply bend the flexible pipe through the corner studs—no joint is necessary. With PEX supply line, fewer joints save time and reduce the likelihood of a leak. PEX is less expensive than copper, and PEX joints can be made with simple quick-connect couplers.

060 UNDERSTAND PLUMBING 101

Every DIYer should have a working knowledge of the home’s plumbing system.

THE BASICS Water enters your house under pressure from your local utility’s main supply line and then flows through pipes to various fixtures. Gravity then moves the water through a drain system into a septic tank or city sewer. You’ll want to know where the water comes into your house and where the main shutoff valve is.

SUPPLY LINES As fresh water enters the property it passes through a water meter, and then a split in the line sends water either directly into the plumbing fixtures or to the water heater.

FIXTURES Plumbing fixtures are connected to the plumbing system to deliver and drain water (sinks, tubs, showers, washing machines, and so on). Before water reaches the fixtures, it usually passes through a shut-off valve protruding from the wall (or two valves, if hot water is also used). These valves can stop the flow of water to repair or replace the fixture. A separate valve inside the fixture delivers water to the user when opened.

DRAIN LINES Wastewater drains from the bottom of plumbing fixtures through a P-trap or S-trap just below the drain openings. The traps consist of bends in the pipe to hold water, forming a seal against sewer gases.

All these drain pipes lead to a drain-waste-vent (DWV) stack, the main vertical pipe leading to the sewer line. The DWV also vents outdoors, usually up through the roof, to release sewer gases. It helps equalize pressure in the system so water flows freely. Since water and sewage travel down drains by gravity, a downward slope must be maintained throughout the system.

061 KNOW YOUR LIMITS

Don’t attempt a plumbing project if you don’t know what you’re doing. A flooded home can cost thousands in repairs and flooring replacement, which is a lot more money than a plumber would have charged to fix the problem that you bungled—and you’ll still need that plumber in the end. Thoroughly research how to perform any repair or installation, and what materials and supplies you’ll need. Seek expert advice for any questions, and expect to get wet. Plumbing projects are messy, time consuming, laborious, and often uncomfortable (ever spent much time working beneath a sink?). Proceed with caution and, when in doubt, hire a pro.

062 CHOOSE THE BEST CAULK GUN

Caulk guns are relatively inexpensive tools, so it makes sense to pay just a little extra for a gun with the right features.

SPOUT CUTTER Every tube of caulk will need to have its spout clipped, and there’s no reason to lug around an extra pair of snips. Look for a gun with an integrated spout cutter typically located in the handle.

SEAL PUNCH This super simple feature should come on every gun, but it doesn’t. It’s a small metal rod that flips out from beneath the gun to puncture the caulk tube’s interior seal, so you don’t have to monkey around with a wire coat hanger or other makeshift implement.

PLUNGER TYPE Caulk guns use one of two drive mechanisms: ratchet rod or smooth rod. Ratchet rods have visible teeth that are ratcheted forward by a drive arm when you pull the trigger. Smooth rods are driven by a spring-loaded pressure bar and generally have twice the thrust for smoother bead control and less hand fatigue. The smooth-rod variety usually costs more, however, and some have a tendency to wear out and slip when the trigger is pulled.

063 SEAL IT UP

Caulk is available in a sometimes bewildering range of options—flexible, waterproof, mildew resistant, paintable, and more. Your best bet is to read the packaging carefully to ensure the uses and features listed match the job at hand.

TYPE

SILICONE SEALANTS

PROS

• Waterproof • Works well in kitchen and bathroom; available with additives that fight mold and mildew • Easy to remove and replace when the bead gets grimy

CONS

• Messy and sticky

• Many varieties cannot be painted

NOTES

Read the package carefully to see if it can be painted and what additives it has

ACRYLIC CAULK

PROS

• Economical • Can be painted • Easy to apply and clean up

CONS

• Not waterproof • Not very flexible • May crack over time

NOTES

Only appropriate for interior projects

HYBRID CAULK/SEALANT

PROS

• Combines attributes of silicone and acrylic • Comes in varieties for interior and exterior usage

CONS

• More expensive

NOTES

These pro-grade sealants cost more but deliver excellent results

FIRE-RESISTANT CAULK

PROS

• Fire resistant

CONS

• More expensive

NOTES

Used around electrical wires and fixtures as an additional safety measure

064 CAULK LIKE A PRO

Caulking can be applied to door frames, moldings, and casings; exterior siding; and anywhere gaps need to be filled. Here are some common applications.

SEAL BIG JOINTS To seal a joint larger than ¼-inch wide, use a foam backer rod as a filler before applying the caulk. The rods are a cheaper way to fill the empty space. Plus, when the caulk is applied over a backer rod, it will form an “hourglass” shape with large surface areas of adhesion at the sides of the joint. This caulk bead withstands joint movement better than any other.

CAULK A TUB When caulking a bathtub, first fill the tub with water. The weight will pull the tub downward and maximize the size of the joint. Apply a flexible, waterproof caulking along the edge of the tub in full contact with both vertical and horizontal surfaces. Once the bead is dry, then you can drain the water.

REMOVE OLD SEALANT To get rid of an old grungy bead of silicone for replacement, cut through each side of the bead using a utility knife and pull it away by hand. With any luck, most of the bead will stay intact as a strip. To remove any remaining sealant, scrape at it with a paint scraper held at a shallow angle. Finish up by scrubbing the surface with mineral spirits and an abrasive pad to get rid of any residue. Once clean and dry, apply a new bead of sealant.

065 MAKE CLEANUP EASIER

Remodeling can be messy business, particularly if it involves any sort of demolition. Dust and debris have an uncanny knack for spreading throughout every crevice of the home if left unchecked. A clean job site keeps the house spick-and-span and even eliminates safety hazards.

You can take precautionary measures as you work to save lots of time during cleanup.

Protect carpet and hardwood by covering your floors with contractor’s paper; tape sheets together and attach them to the baseboards of the room.

A canvas drop cloth can make a flexible and reusable protective cover for irregular shapes such as bathtubs and stairs.

Seal off the doorways leading to construction areas with plastic to inhibit dust from circulating throughout other rooms.

Place a box fan in an open window, pointing it to blow outside. Once all demolition is finished, sweep the floor in the direction of the fan to send the dust out the window. On outdoor projects, use tarps to cover the surrounding ground.

066 HANDLE HAZARDOUS WASTE

Certain types of household chemicals qualify as household hazardous waste (HHW), which contain corrosive, toxic, ignitable, or reactive ingredients. These can include paints, cleaners, oils, batteries, and pesticides that contain potentially hazardous ingredients. They will contaminate septic tanks or wastewater treatment systems if poured down drains or toilets, and they present hazards to children and pets if left around the house. Although federal law allows disposal in the trash, many communities have collection programs to reduce the potential harm posed by these chemicals. Call your local environmental, health, or solid-waste agency for the time and location of your HHW collection program.

067 STUDY CHEMISTRY

From cleaning up spills to repainting walls, chemical cleaners provide a powerful solution for certain household tasks. You should always wear eye protection and don heavy-duty rubber gloves when using these products. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and remember to properly store and dispose of these or any materials that could be hazardous.

TSP Trisodium phosphate is an alkaline type cleaner that dissolves grease and can clean everything from laundry to concrete driveways.

MINERAL SPIRITS This is a petroleum-based solvent formulated to dissolve oil-based paints.

MURIATIC ACID Also known as hydrochloric acid, this highly corrosive chemical is used to clean masonry.

068 DISPOSE OF DEBRIS

Debris can be collected for disposal outside the home with a wheelbarrow. Inside the home, you can toss it all into 3-millimeter plastic contractor bags. For debris with nails or jagged edges that might tear the plastic, Demobags are woven, tougher, and more tear-resistant.

You can haul the bags of debris to your local dump, which will likely charge a disposal fee. Or, for larger projects (or lack of a truck), consider Waste Management’s Bagster bags. This “dumpster in a bag” can be purchased at home centers and unfolds to offer a 3-cubic-yard capacity, with no container usage fees (unlike full-size dumpsters). Fill the Bagster with up to 3,300 pounds of waste, and then schedule your collection online or by phone.

Major remodeling jobs that require rental of a full-size dumpster will usually involve a contractor, who should be held responsible for job site cleanup. On jobs such as roof or siding tear-offs that involve lots of nails and fasteners, a responsible contractor will have a worker canvas the surrounding ground with a magnetic broom to collect all the debris, so that nails don’t end up stuck in someone’s heel or tire.