GO BEYOND THE BASICS

Here you venture into the world of construction craftsmanship. The trade professionals who do following projects daily make their living by applying hard-earned expertise developed through time and experience. As a DIYer, you probably don’t have the luxury of that experience.

I know what that’s like. I have a history of diving head-first into big projects and regretting it later. I’ve shingled roofs, built decks, erected fences, installed flooring, and knocked out walls. Some of those big projects I hope to never do again. Now that I have the benefit of experience, I know when I’ve bitten off more than I can chew. I didn’t give up and I didn’t surrender, but I hated every grueling minute of trudging all the way to the end of those projects. I also learned from my mistakes.

So, here’s the best advice I can offer for large-scale projects: Proceed carefully, research the project ahead of time, and expect a lot of hiccups. You’ll find some helpful advice in the following pages, but products vary, materials evolve, and entire books have been dedicated to parsing the details of some of the upcoming topics.

In general, I’ve developed what might appear to be a grim projection for major DIY home improvement projects: Expect multiple unforeseen obstacles. Expect the job to cost more than you estimated. And plan for the job to take at least twice as long as you think.

I don’t view those rules as pessimistic, however, just realistic, and I base that on experience. Home improvement is rife with surprises. Forewarned is forearmed when you need to schedule a big project around your day-to-day life.

Look at it this way: If you prepare for the worst-case scenario and only the best comes to pass, then you’ll be one happy DIYer with extra time on your hands to enjoy the fruits of your hard work.

265 WORK WELL WITH TILE

Tile provides hundreds of creative design options. Often made of ceramic or stone, tile is a durable material for flooring, walls and countertops. It’s available in a vast array of colors, patterns, shapes, and sizes. Tile is durable enough to withstand heavy foot traffic and can feasibly last as long as the substrate that supports it.

TOOL UP You will need chalk line, an angle grinder and/or diamond-blade wet saw, a notched trowel, a grouting float, a carpenter’s level, a clean sponge, a masonry bit, a half-round file, a dowel, a caulk gun, a broom, and (optionally) tile spacers.

GET YOUR MATERIALS You will (obviously) need tiles, along with thin-set mortar or tile adhesive, grout, caulking, and tile/grout sealant.

266 PLAN YOUR INSTALLATION

Sketch a floor plan to calculate how many tiles you’ll need to purchase, including special border features or decorative patterns. Thick grout lines between joints will also impact how many tiles will fit on the floor.

Before installation, remove existing floor coverings and baseboard trim. Make any necessary repairs, such as re-nailing any loose boards that might squeak. Tile should generally be installed on a rigid underlayment, which resists movement such as the swelling and contraction that occurs in wood, which can damage the installation. Tile can be installed over a cement floor that is structurally sound and dry.

Wood subfloors should be a minimum of 1¼-inch thick. In new home construction where traditional ¾-inch plywood is used as a subfloor, use additional sheets of ½- or ⅝-inch cement board to ensure rigidity beneath the tiles. Fasten the reinforcing sheets to the subfloor, spacing screws every 8 inches on center.

267 PREP YOUR TILES

Some tiles, such as natural stone, can vary in thickness, so sort those accordingly before laying the floor. Tiles that are notably thicker can pose a tripping hazard if the edges stick up above the normal plane of the finished surface. Start with the thickest tiles and use mortar or adhesive to build up the thinner ones.

Check the tiles for surface damage. Set aside chipped pieces to cut for edge tiles. Color varies as well; sort tiles according to the pattern you want, and stack them around the room strategically so they’ll be within reach during the installation.

Lay out the tiles dry, filling the four quadrants created by the chalk lines until the whole floor, apart from the edges, is laid in place. Ensure the layout is square and symmetrical; correct any errors before installing with mortar.

Cut border tiles to fit around the room’s edges, allowing at least ⅛-inch grout joint along the walls.

268 GET THE RIGHT LAYOUT

A standard tile layout procedure is the quarter method, wherein you divide the room into four quarters to help sequence the layout. First, measure and mark the midpoint of all four walls. Snap intersecting chalk lines at the center point of the site to form a cross. Check that the lines form right angles. Lay a row of tiles in a dry run along all four lines, all the way to the walls, creating a cross of tiles in the center of the room. Start laying the tile from the center and work your way outward.

Use tile spacers if you prefer visibly distinct grout joints. Insert the spacers so they stand up between the tiles like tiny handles. These can maintain uniform joint spacing during layout and installation. You may also opt to butt the tiles against each other and grout the resulting fine joint line between them, using no spacers.

Typically, the dry run will reveal that the last tile against the wall won’t fit in the space provided. Here you will need to adjust your original chalk lines so that the border tiles of opposite walls will be the same size, resulting in a symmetrical tile layout. Adjust all the chalk lines and, once again, lay out a dry run of tiles to make sure the layout will be symmetrical. All of the cut border tiles should be the same size from one end of the room to the other. There should be no border space along the edge of the walls of less than a half tile in width.

For a diagonal layout, use the center point established with the quarter method and snap square lines across the two diagonals of the room, forming an “X” on top of the cross. Install tiles along the X, using the quarter method. Ensure the lines are at true right angles and that the partial border tiles are equal in width.

269 INSTALL YOUR TILES

The following steps explain floor tile installation, but the procedure can generally be applied to most tile projects.

STEP 1 Lift about nine tiles in the corner of the room furthest from the door. Using a trowel with ¼-inch notches, spread an even bed of thin-set mortar over a 2-by-3-foot area. Then, reposition the tiles from the walls inward. Reinsert spacers, if required.

STEP 2 Press each tile down firmly or tap it using a rubber mallet. As you progress, use a carpenter’s level to ensure the tile surface is even and flush with surrounding tiles. Use mortar to build up beneath the tiles as needed. Immediately wipe the surface with a damp sponge to remove any mortar from the face of the tiles. Continue working outward from the walls, progressing toward the room’s exit.

STEP 3 Allow tiles to set for at least 24 hours. Remove any spacers and fill the joints with sanded grout. (For delicate tiles such as marble or polished stone, use unsanded grout to avoid scratching the surface.) Work the grout into the joints with a sponge float, which has a dense foam pad on the base. Use the float tilted at a 45-degree angle to work the grout over the tile to completely fill all joints. Wipe off excess grout with a damp sponge, rinsing it frequently with a bucket of clean water. Once the tile is fully grouted, shape the joints by running a dowel or grouting tool over the grout lines. Leave joints in floor tile as full of grout as possible to avoid dirt accumulation.

STEP 4 Allow the grout to cure overnight. On the next day, scrub the tile using a damp, abrasive sponge to remove grout residue. Repeat the scrubbing for the next three days. If grout haze remains, a solution of vinegar and warm water will usually remove it. Allow grout to cure for a week before sealing.

270 APPLY SEALANT

Most ceramic tiles are glazed at the factory, but some varieties of tiles (such as natural stone or terracotta) may not be glazed and will require a protective sealer once installed.

Regardless of your choice of tile, you should always apply sealer to the grout to keep it from absorbing dirt and grime. Doing so will protect against stains and make routine cleaning much easier. Work the sealant over all the grout lines using a small brush. Remove excess sealant and let it dry for at least four hours before use.

271 MAKE STRAIGHT CUTS

For small installations of glazed tile, you can use a small handheld glass cutter to score a straight line on the glazed surface. Place the tile over a dowel aligned beneath the score mark, and press down on both sides of the tile to snap it along the line.

For larger jobs, speed up the process with a snap tile cutter. First mark the cut line on the tile. Set the tile on the cutter’s base plate, align the cutting line with the guide bars, and lower the carbide-tipped cutter onto the line. Draw the carbide wheel or blade across the tile surface to score it. Then press down on the handle to break the tile along the score line.

These tools only make straight cuts that extend across the entire tile. For curved cuts, partial cuts, or anything irregular, you’ll need different tools

272 NIP IT INTO SHAPE

Tile nippers provide a simple way to make small partial cuts along the edge of a tile to fit around a pipe or other obstacle. Tile nippers look much like a pair of pliers but take small bites (⅛ inch) out of tile. The smaller the nibbles you make, the more control you have of the cut, and the less likely the tile will crack or shatter beneath the pressure of the blades. Practice on a scrap piece of tile before making any critical cuts in your installation.

The nipper’s teeth usually leave a fairly ragged edge along the cut. This may not be an issue if the cut is going to be concealed with a plumbing escutcheon or similar device. In any areas where appearance matters, it may help to smooth the rough edges with a file.

273 WHET YOUR WET SAW

When cutting tile, professionals will often use a wet saw: a powered circular blade that has an integrated water reservoir (often with an electric pump) to cool the cutting action. These are available in a variety of configurations: the table-saw type (the blade protrudes from beneath the table surface and the tile is pushed over it); the bridge or sled-type (the blade is mounted at the top of the tool and cuts the tile from above); and portable handheld models. Overspray from wet saws can be messy, so they’re typically used outdoors.

Wet saws are generally used with diamond-tipped cutting wheels to remove ceramic and stone material with great precision and minimal heat buildup. When equipped with a miter gauge, they can make accurate cuts at any angle.

The circular blade of a wet saw enables only straight cutting, but you can still use it for irregular cuts. To fit a tile against a post or molding, simply scribe the profile of the obstacle on the tile, first make a series of closely-spaced parallel cuts up to the profile line, and then use a set of nippers to remove thin strips of tile between the kerfs.

274 DRILL TILE AND GLASS

When you need to mount fasteners into tile, glass-and-tile bits have an arrowhead-shaped tip designed for penetrating brittle materials. Drill the pilot hole at a slow speed and use a spray bottle of water to cool the cutting surface, which helps drilling performance and extends the life of the bit. Gently increase speed and pressure as needed.

If you’re going to be cutting larger holes, you can select from carbide-tipped masonry bits or diamond-tipped hole cutters. As with the smaller bits, carbide bits should be lubricated with water to reduce heat.

By comparison, diamond-tipped hole cutters are designed to drill at higher speeds and can even cut dry. They will allow you to create holes with larger diameters for pipe and cable access located in the center of a tile.

275 INSTALL MOSAIC TILE

Mosaic tile is a combination of little colored tiles that are called “tesserae,” and they can be used to make artistic or geometrical designs. Tiles of one color can be used for a plain layout. Complementary colors are a more popular option; multiple colors can be used for more complex patterns. With many small tiles the installer can use individual units like blocks of color in a painting. To skip the assembly of mosaic tile piece-by-piece, you can also use larger tiles that consist of tesserae attached to a backing in a prearranged pattern. The backing can be cut to size and lets the tiles easily adhere to the floor.

STEP 1 Install cement board over the plywood subfloor and screw it down securely.

STEP 2 If you’re using tiles on a scrim backing, cut to size to fit the room’s dimensions properly.

STEP 3 Start with a dry run over the cement board.

STEP 4 After planning your layout, spread tile adhesive onto the cement board with a notched trowel. It may help to use plastic tile spacers to keep grout joints consistent during installation.

STEP 5 Mix polymer-modified, sandless grout for mosaic tile.

STEP 6 Apply grout to the tile joints with a rubber float, then finish the job like a standard tile installation.

276 PUT IN A NEW FLOOR

Floor installation is a big job due primarily to how disruptive it can be to an occupied living space. But upgrading a finished floor can dramatically improve a home and add to its value. Floor installation is also achievable by a savvy DIYer, although some methods are easier than others.

STICK WITH STONE Tough tile and stone floors stand up to water exposure, so they’re popular in kitchens, bathrooms, and outdoor patios. Ceramic and stone tile can be purchased in a dazzling array of colors, sizes, and styles for virtually limitless design flexibility.

BE RESILIENT Flexible resilient floors are available in vinyl, linoleum, and rubber in many colors, styles, and patterns. Individual tiles are easy to work with, but sheet flooring can be more difficult to install, but is particularly water-resistant because it can be installed with no seams.

TRY CARPET For warmth and comfort, carpet is hard to beat, and available in a spectrum of colors, patterns, and piles. Keep it clean; dirty carpet can trap odors and stains. Carpet can be a bit difficult to install for a DIYer; you need a few specific tools—available for rent—but carpet suppliers generally price installation into the product cost. Renting the tools will not save you much money compared to professional installation. Carpet tiles, on the other hand, are easy to install and make a fine choice for targeted areas of the home.

LAMINATE IT A popular DIY choice is click-together laminate flooring, made from high-density fiberboard planks covered with decorative sheeting and a clear plastic wear layer. This flooring is available in a wide array of wood appearances—cherry, walnut, beech, oak, and tons more options. Some laminate flooring has realistic wood textures on the top surface; others have a high-gloss finish, and even tile patterns are available. These floating floor systems are typically installed with tongue-and-groove boards that connect along the edges and are “locked” together. No nails or glue are used to fasten the boards to the subfloor; instead, the completed floor floats like an assembled jigsaw puzzle, held stationary by weight and friction.

STUDY ENGINEERING Similar to laminate flooring, engineered flooring features a layer of genuine solid wood roughly ⅛-inch thick adhered to a fiberboard core. These engineered products offer the unique grain character of real wood, and they can be sanded and refinished (usually only once). These products are installed just the same as laminate floors but are also generally more expensive.

STAY SOLID A genuine solid wood floor can offer a traditional look, natural woodgrain character, and the floor can be sanded and refinished in the future. Real wood flooring is generally more expensive than laminate, and nailing, stapling, or gluing down the boards can be challenging to inexperienced DIYers.

277 PREP YOUR SITE

Before putting in a new floor, first remove any baseboards and shoe molding. If you remove the trim carefully, you can usually repair it and reinstall it over the new floor. Also, remove the old finished flooring. (In some cases, an existing vinyl floor can be left in place if in good condition because it can serve as an effective moisture barrier.)

Subfloors in a home refer to the structural floor material that is installed over the joists; examples include ¾-inch plywood and tongue-and-groove dimensional lumber. A visible finished floor is installed over the subfloor. The subfloor must be strong and completely level. Replace any sagging or rotten boards and set flush any proud nails.

Check for level and flatness with an 8-foot straightedge laid out across the subfloor. Most manufacturers will recommend no more than a -inch difference in height between any two points in a circle with a 20-foot diameter. Smooth dents with leveling compound, and plane down any high spots. You can also help reinforce a subfloor or prepare a concrete slab by nailing or screwing down sheets of ¼- to ¾-inch plywood to ensure a level base.

After the floor is leveled, apply a moisture barrier and/or underlayment as required by the flooring manufacturer and the conditions of the jobsite. (Install the barrier beneath the plywood/OSB if you have installed a layer to reinforce the subfloor.)

PRO TIP

INSULATE A BASEMENT FLOOR When making a basement into a living space, consider an insulated subfloor to increase the room’s comfort level. This will not only control moisture in a basement floor; the flooring can also transfer cold from the ground below to the room. Some subfloor systems are sold as tongue-and-groove OSB panels with added closed-cell polystyrene for less heat loss.

278 USE BARRIER PROTECTION

Any floor installed over an unconditioned air space needs a vapor barrier to prevent transfer of moisture. For instance, wooden floors over concrete require an impermeable barrier, or else the wood will buckle and warp. For floating floors, most manufacturers often recommend rolled plastic sheathing in a 6-milimeter thickness, which should be laid across the installation area with taped and/or overlapping seams.

Another option for use on concrete floors is a liquid moisture barrier applied with a trowel, which works well with glue-down floors installed over concrete.

For wood subfloors, plastic sheathing should not be used because it can trap moisture which may lead to mold conditions at the subfloor. Instead, use 15- or 30-pound asphalt felt roofing paper, which can offer breathability and does not promote any mold growth. Recently, hardwood adhesive manufacturers have also developed sealers to be used in glue-down installations and nailed or stapled floors.

Note that upper floors are not affected by moisture and don’t require a waterproof barrier. However, you should always check the instructions for your specific flooring because a barrier may still be required for the manufacturer’s warranty.

An underlayment is a layer of material that installs over the subfloor but underneath the finished flooring. An underlayment can serve a variety of purposes. For example, in a tile floor, a cement-board or a flexible membrane underlayment can uncouple the wooden subfloor from tile and mortar, which prevents cracking in your floor when the wood expands or contracts. A foam underlayment beneath floating wood or laminate floors can help prevent any floor squeaks, pops, and echoes. The seams of an underlayment butt together rather than overlap to maintain a level surface.

279 INSTALL A FLOATING FLOOR

Installation methods for floating floor systems are the same for both laminate flooring and engineered hardwoods. The first step is to lay out your floor plan. Sketch the room on paper and mark the dimensions. Calculate the square footage required, and then order extra flooring material to account for unusable cut boards or any damaged boards that might require replacement in the future.

Also, make note of the different transitions in the room where the new floor will meet other types of flooring or exterior doors. The flooring supplier will usually have transition moldings for these areas.

280 BE READY TO FLOAT

To ensure a long-lasting floating floor, there are a few important steps you should follow before making the installation.

Once the flooring is on site, keep unopened cartons of planks in the room where they will be installed for at least 48 hours before actual installation. This allows the flooring to shrink or swell slightly, according to the climate.

Begin the job by preparing the subfloor for level and flatness. Be sure to eliminate any squeaks. Apply a moisture barrier and/or an underlayment if necessary. Manufacturers often recommend using foam underlayment beneath floating systems to reduce impact noise and add extra comfort. Some products even have the underlayment pre-attached to the underside of the floorboards.

Prepare the room by undercutting all of the doorjambs and casings in order to allow room for the thickness of your new flooring. Use a handsaw and pull saw, or try a power tool with a flush-cut blade. Determine the height of the cut by using a scrap of flooring as a saw guide. Leave an additional ¼ inch of space concealed beneath the door frame to allow expansion.

281 LAY THE FLOOR

After all your prep work, it’s go time! Here’s how to install your new floor.

STEP 1 Measure the room’s width to ensure that the last row of your flooring will be at least 2 inches wide when it’s set lengthwise against the wall. Divide the width of the room by the width of the exposed face of the flooring. The remaining number will be the width of the last row. If the last row is less than 2 inches, rip the first row of boards narrower to allow more room for the last row, using a table saw and rip fence, or a handheld circular saw equipped with an edge guide. (If your baseboard or shoe molding won’t conceal both the tongue and expansion gap, rip the tongues off the first row of boards.)

STEP 2 Some floor systems’ boards have a standard length; others have random lengths. If you’re working with floorboards that all measure the same, lay them out in a dry run. If you have a sliver of board at either end of the room, cut a third the length off the first board to make more room for the last.

STEP 3 Assemble the first three rows of the tongue-and-groove boards with the tongues on the long edge facing the nearest wall. You can assemble them a few feet away from the wall to allow some room to work.

STEP 4 The shaped edges join together at an angle similar to a lock and key. You can use a hammer and a rubber block to tap these joints securely into place. If you don’t have a helper, you can hold down all the previously installed floorboards with a box of flooring as you move down the first three rows. The weight of the box will hold them securely to the floor, so that they don’t separate while you hammer-tap the new boards into position.

STEP 5 When possible, connect the long joints first and follow with the shorter joint on the end. The best way is to hold the groove board flat while you insert the tongue of the joining floorboard at an angle. Then bend the board downward, which pulls the tongue into the groove. Stagger the end joints of adjoining rows by at least 5 inches.

STEP 6 If the last board in a row will not fit precisely into the space against the wall, cut it down to length. You can then use the remainder of the cutoff piece to begin the next row.

STEP 7 Once you have gotten the first three rows fully assembled, place ¼-inch spacers against the walls to allow for expansion, and then push the three rows in place against it.

STEP 8 When locked in place, the weight and rigidity of the combined rows will have enough structural integrity to assemble the rest without your needing to weigh down the assembly. Continue working board by board and row by row, using spacers against all wall transitions.

STEP 9 In some cases, you’ll need a jigsaw for making small cutouts, such as rectangular cuts around floor registers. For small, round cutouts around pipes, try a drill equipped with a hole-saw.

STEP 10 At the opposite wall from where you started, you won’t have clearance to “push” or hammer-tap the final row into place. Hook the end of the board against the wall using an S-shaped pull bar, and then hammer-tap the striking plate on the pull bar to inch the board into the row and fasten the tongue-and-groove joint. When the floor is complete, take out all the spacers along the walls and reinstall shoe and/or base molding.

STEP 11 Nail the matching floor transitions along the bottoms of doors where the new floorboards meet other flooring types. Cut them to length and then nail them flush between the two floor areas to get a sleek, finished appearance.

282 SET A SOLID WOOD FLOOR

Solid tongue-and-groove flooring is a classic option for homes. Available in hardwood and softwood varieties, tongue-and-groove flooring also comes in pre-finished or unfinished boards, the latter requiring application of a protective sealant/topcoat after installation.

Unfinished material is a less costly product, but it still requires money, time, and effort to sand the floor and apply urethane. Pre-finished floors have serious benefits that are worth considering. First, the installed cost of solid, pre-finished wood flooring can rival the installed cost of bare hardwood. Although the products cost more, they also have a bulletproof, factory-applied finish that will stand up to nearly anything. The trade-off is a bevel between each floorboard to hide slight discrepancies in board thickness.

283 READY THE NEW FLOOR

Before installing your floorboard, be sure to ready the room and materials first.

Wood expands and contracts with moisture and temperature changes; let the floorboards acclimate inside the room where they are to be installed for at least 48 hours. Depending on the size and design of your new floorboards, precutting them to random lengths may make them easier to maneuver and help to ensure a random series of staggered joints.

Prep the site the same as any floor project. Remove baseboards and shoe molding. Your subfloor must be flat, dry, and level. Build up minor flaws with building paper; a liquid floor leveler may be required for any bigger dips, as well as a belt sander for high spots.

For first-floor installations, you will require a moisture barrier over the subfloor. Apply a coating of liquid waterproof membrane over the subfloor or slab using a roller and let dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Plastic sheeting is not suggested, since nails or staples can penetrate it. If you are working over concrete, use a construction adhesive to glue down ¾-inch marine-grade plywood over the waterproofing. Trim door jambs to the new floor height if needed.

284 LAY OUT THE BOARDS

Got supplies and room both ready? Then it’s time to put in your new floor.

STEP 1 Measure the width of the room and divide the span by the width of the exposed face of the boards. If the final row is less than half the width of a full board, consider ripping your first row of floorboards narrower to split the difference.

STEP 2 Snap a chalk line along the longest,straightest wall in the room. With the groove side of the board facing toward the wall, predrill holes along its wall edge and nail it to the floor every 6 inches, following your chalk line. Predrilling isn’t necessary if using an air-powered finish nailer. Maintain ½-inch spacing between the wall and flooring around the entire room to ensure an adequate expansion gap.

STEP 3 If your flooring has tongue-and-groove end joints, slot the second board into the first. Otherwise, abut it closely to the next board and nail in place along the wall. Work to the end of the wall, cross-cutting the final board to size. Leave a ½-inch gap against the wall at the end of the row. You can then use the leftover cutoff from the final board to begin the following row.

STEP 4 Drive nails at a 45-degree angle through the tongues of the first row and into the subfloor (called “blind nailing”). Predrill holes if hammering the nails. Countersink any proud fastener heads with a nail set. Lay the following row by slotting the grooved end over the exposed tongue of the first row. Close the tongue-and-groove joint tightly with a hammer and rubber block.

STEP 5 Proceed down the second row, driving nails into the tongue every 6 inches. Keep the end joints between each row spaced at least 18 inches apart for a random appearance and to add rigidity to the installation. Blind-nail the entire floor or, once you have laid enough rows to gain some working clearance from the wall, speed up installation with a flooring nailer or stapler. A jigsaw is best when you need to notch a board around a corner or make a cutout for a vent register. Use an electric drill for pipe or cable access.

STEP 6 To install the final row, you’ll probably have to use a table saw (or circular saw with rip gauge) to cut off the lower edge of the groove so that the last boards easily drop over the exposed tongue of the preceding row. Close the joint along the final row of boards with a hammer and pull-bar (or Lam-hammer). Nail and glue the last row in place.

STEP 7 Remove spacing blocks and fill small gaps in the flooring with matching wood filler. After it dries, sand and finish the floor to your preference (if it is required), then reinstall baseboards and molding.

285 BE RESILIENT

Vinyl tile is the easiest resilient flooring option for a DIYer to install. Available in a rainbow of colors, textures, patterns, and appearances, the material can mimic other more expensive materials for a fraction of the price.

Although it’s scratch-resistant, easy to work with, and can also easily be trimmed using a sharp utility knife, vinyl flooring does have its pitfalls. It’s not as durable as laminate, and dog paws have been known to damage the surface. Adhesive-backed vinyl planks and tiles have been available for years, but some of the cheaper varieties are notorious for coming unglued after their installation and sliding apart underfoot, opening ugly joints in the floor. For this reason, speak to your supplier and research your options to find a quality product from a reputable manufacturer.

286 GET IT READY

Preparing to lay vinyl flooring is much like other flooring projects. Ensure the existing floor is completely clean and free of debris. Vinyl tiles are very thin, and any small objects that are trapped beneath the installation will be visible on the surface. Like wood flooring, the material should be stored on site at room temperature prior to installation. Any wood subfloors should be leveled using ¼-inch marine-grade plywood. Concrete slabs can be smoothed with leveling compound.

The method of installation varies among vinyl flooring products. Some systems have tiles that butt against one another and glue directly to the subfloor. Some products are glued to the subfloor, but the individual tiles are installed along with tile spacers to ensure a consistent grout joint. Other systems have adhesive edge strips that glue vinyl planks to each other rather than to the floor, creating a floating floor system.

287 FLOAT A VINYL FLOOR

For vinyl planks that resemble wood flooring, snap a chalk line along the straightest wall in the room, and install the planks along it as you would with a wood floor installation.

STEP 1 Some of these systems create a floating floor, but use double-sided acrylic tape at the first edge to help hold the first rows stationary during installation.

STEP 2 To install, just remove the paper backing from the adhesive strips, align the strips between one plank and the other, and press into place to close the joints.

STEP 3 The thin vinyl planks can easily be cut as needed with a utility knife. A pair of aviation snips works well for making any small cuts around trim. Some professionals recommend using a hair dryer to warm the adhesive edges along the newly joined seams to help melt the glue together, give the planks a tighter bond, and also make the vinyl tiles more pliable and easier to cut.

STEP 4 Complete the installation by rolling the surface using a vinyl floor roller, available at any rental outlet, which helps to press all the joints together to assist the adhesive bond while also ensuring all seams lay flat.

288 PEEL AND STICK IT

Stick-down tile is a type that has the appearance of genuine stone. With some careful planning and grouted joints, you can install a new vinyl floor with a classic look faster and easier than using thin-set mortar and ceramic or stone tile.

STEP 1 You can install vinyl tiles over existing flooring, but it’s best to just install over a bare subfloor. Ensure that the surface is completely smooth. Sweep the floor several times and wipe with a damp cloth to remove all loose particles. For the best adhesive bond, coat the subfloor with multipurpose floor primer using a long-handled paint roller. Allow the primer to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

STEP 2 Snap intersecting square chalk lines and arrange the tiles into a dry test-fit installation as you would for a ceramic tile floor. Shift the layout to avoid small sliver tiles at the edges, and rotate tiles to avoid repeating patterns if they mimic the look of natural stone. Also, consider placement of the tiles in the doorway of the room. The majority of homeowners prefer a full tile in the middle of the entrance if possible.

STEP 3 Remove the paper backing from the tiles and install them in place one by one. Simply press the adhesive side firmly to the subfloor. Press down the installed tiles with your body weight or a roller to ensure firm adhesion. Fill in one quadrant of the cross pattern at a time. Use plastic tile spacers to keep all the joints the same size. These come in different sizes, but small ⅛-inch joints provide less grout surface to collect dirt and grime.

STEP 4 Tiles at the end of the row will have to be fitted. Place the tile to be trimmed over the last full tile, flush with all four edges. Then, place another full tile against the wall and mark a cut line where the tiles overlap. Unlike ceramic or stone, no heavy-duty power tools are required to cut vinyl tile. All you need is a sharp utility knife and a straight edge to guide the cut. To fit around obstacles, make a pattern on paper or cardboard, trace its outline on the tile, and cut to shape.

STEP 5 Grout the joints as you would any other tile installation, with a ready-to-use, premixed sanded acrylic grout formulated for vinyl tile. Spread grout diagonally, holding a sharp-edged, rubber grout float at a 45-degree angle to the joint. Press firmly to completely fill the joint. Remove excess grout, using the edge as you would a squeegee. Angled strokes help prevent the float from digging into the filled joints and pulling out the grout.

STEP 6 Remove grout haze as you work, using a sponge and a bucket of water. Keep any traffic off of the finished surface for at least 24 hours of drying, and then use a sponge and water to remove the final remaining grout haze. Seal the grout after 72 hours in order to make the joints easier to clean.

289 BUILD A DECK

Decks are built with basic frame construction and are a popular DIY project. Take the time to thoughtfully design your deck for its intended purpose, area, and environment—and in accordance with local building codes. With proper planning, the project should go smoothly and you’ll have a well-built deck that will last for many years.

290 CONSIDER YOUR DESIGN

Building methods for decks have changed over time, so you should be aware of that fact when you design one. Deck joists, which straddle the sides of a support post, are no longer approved by the International Building Code, and they should be supported by a load-carrying beam—or multiple beams.

The entire structure of the deck must be built sturdy enough to support everything above it, including people and furnishings. Therefore, decks that are supporting heavy items, such as hot tubs, will require additional reinforcement framing. Check with your local building official for specific construction guidelines, lumber size requirements (different wood species will have different strengths), and joist span limitations in your area.

291 LEAD WITH A LEDGER BOARD

Once you’ve done a thorough job of designing your deck, you’re ready to begin building.

STEP 1 Construction usually starts with the ledger board, the piece that anchors the structure to the house. This will also establish your deck length and height (so account for the thickness of the building material). The ledger board, joists, and beam will support the weight of the deck, so use 2X8s or 2X10s, depending on the size of the deck you plan to build.

STEP 2 Make sure the ledger is level and fasten it with lag bolts or heavy-duty structural screws (½-inch diameter with washers) that attach to your home’s rim joist (some siding may need to be removed). Or, use expansion bolts if you are attaching it to a concrete foundation.

STEP 3 The ledger board needs to have continuous flashing installed according with your building code to prevent any water penetration into the house. The flashing should also lap up the house wall behind the exterior siding.

STEP 4 The International Residential Code requires a deck supported by an adjacent house to be built with a “positive attachment” to the house framing to help resist lateral loads. Check the local codes for requirements in your area. Simpson Strong-Tie offers a deck tension-tie for attaching a deck to a home that meets the latest code standards. The DTT1Z deck tension-tie fastens from outside the house, allowing the four required 750-pound lateral connectors to be fastened to the structural framing members within the house. This tie is screwed to either the narrow or wide face of a single 2X joist. Afterward, a long hex screw with an integral washer attaches the tension-tie to the supporting structure with a minimum of 3 inches of penetration.

292 GET THE RIGHT LAYOUT

You can establish the layout of your deck by using string and wood stakes to determine where to locate the supporting concrete piers and support posts.

STEP 1 Drive stakes (or batter boards) at each corner, about two feet farther than the beam will be away from the house. Attach a string to each stake and attach the opposite ends to the ledger board. Make sure the strings are square to the ledger-board using the 3-4-5 method.

STEP 2 Drive two new stakes about 2 feet outside the first set of strings at the desired location for the beam (also called a girder). Attach a third string between the two new stakes and parallel to the ledger-board. At the point where the strings intersect, check for square by measuring diagonally from the intersection of the strings to the opposite corner of the ledger board, then check the other diagonal measurement; they should be the same. Move the stakes until the outline is completely square.

STEP 3 Use a plumb bob on the beam-layout string to mark the center points of the deck’s support posts. Beams can overhang the posts a maximum of 1 foot. Spacing of your posts will be determined by local codes, joist size, beam size, and wood species. For example, if the deck’s joist size is 2X6, and you use a doubled 2X6 beam, maximum post spacing is usually 6 feet (for woods such as Southern Pine and Hem-Fir). A deck with 2X8 joists and a beam made of two 2X10s will have maximum post spacing of 8 feet. Consult a lumber dealer or an engineer for design assistance; when in doubt, always over-build.

293 GET GOOD FOOTING

Deck posts should be supported by concrete pier footings. The footing hole depth will be determined by your location and frost line.

STEP 1 Check with local building codes to find out how deep you’ll need to dig to prevent frost heave. Dig a hole to that depth, 14 to 24 inches in width.

STEP 2 Mix concrete and fill the footing hole. Tube-shaped cardboard footing forms can help keep the concrete in a cylindrical shape.

STEP 3 Insert an 8-inch J-bolt into the centers of each of your wet concrete footings, leaving enough threaded rod exposed to mount a metal pier bracket. Once the concrete dries, attach the bracket to the bolt with a washer and nut.

STEP 4 Use a support post size of at least 6X6 that’s made of treated lumber and intended for ground contact. Place the post into the bracket, plumb and square it, then fasten in place with galvanized nails.

294 INSTALL YOUR FRAMING

After your posts are set, you need to create the framing upon which you’ll build the flooring of your deck.

STEP 1 Determine the anticipated surface height of your deck, then measure downward, subtracting the thickness of the decking and the height of the joists and beam. Transfer this measurement to the posts to determine where to cut them to accept the beam. A string level helps measure over longer distances. In some cases you should engineer a slight slope to the deck to pitch downward away from the house, especially if your decking material could collect water.

STEP 2 After the posts are cut, install the beam onto the support posts (and parallel to the ledger board) with metal post brackets to prevent uplift and lateral displacement. Beams can overhang the posts out to a maximum of 1 foot. All the hardware and fasteners should be hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel.

STEP 3 Deck beams that are made of 2X treated wood should be fastened together using staggered rows of 10d galvanized nails or #10 wood screws. If necessary to splice boards to form the beam, stagger the splices and locate the joints over the beams.

STEP 4 Install the side joists onto the ledger board using metal joist hangers. Ensure that the joists are square to the ledger board and mount them to the beam with metal hardware. The joists can terminate at the beam or cantilever (overhang) by a couple of feet, according to span limitations.

STEP 5 Mark locations along the beam for the rest of the joists and install them using metal hardware to resist uplift and lateral movement. Joists are typically installed 16 inches on center (closer spacing may be required for some deck-board systems.)

STEP 6 If joist lengths vary, snap a chalk line over the ends and cut them to the same length. Fasten a rim joist over the ends and flush with the top edges using metal joist hangers. Double up on the rim joists to add strength and stability.

STEP 7 To help stabilize movement in a deck frame, you can place a long diagonal 2X4 brace across the underside of the joists. Alternatively, use perpendicular blocking between the joists, cut from the same size lumber as the deck joists; or, install diagonal 2X4 braces fastened onto the support posts and the adjacent framing members.

STEP 8 Construct handrail and stair systems before installing the deck boards. Handrail posts must be bolted to the deck’s framing members according to building code.

295 GET ON DECK

A deck’s surface can be made from pressure-treated wood, PVC, wood-plastic composite, cedar, cypress, or an exotic hardwood such as ipe—there are even aluminum deck systems available. Each material has a different set of advantages: Some offer the genuine wood grain that you will only have with a natural product, while others may offer cool hidden-fastener systems a pre-finished appearance, and minimal maintenance requirements. Research your material options carefully, and explore the maintenance issues associated with each, as well as the cost of the product (which can vary greatly).

As you begin installing the decking, be sure the board is fastened perfectly straight, because all of the rest of the decking will run from this board. Keep the decking at least ½ inch from the house. Attach the boards using fasteners that are recommended by the manufacturer. Center joints over a joist or add 2X blocking so that you can attach both ends securely. Separate the deck boards approximately to ⅛ inch to allow for expansion and contraction. As you are installing the deck boards, allow them to run long over the outer joists. When all of the boards are installed, snap a chalk line across the ends and trim all of the decking at once using a circular saw.

296 ADD RAILINGS TO YOUR DECK

For decks more than 30 inches high, railings are a critical safety feature that are required by building codes. Various code requirements will dictate how to construct a handrail system; consult your local building inspector for any specific clarification.

Generally, the posts should be a minimum 4×4 size, and be solidly anchored to the deck joist and the rim joist of the structure. Use a pair of ½-inch through-bolts and a metal tension-tie for the upper bolt connection. Posts should be spaced no more than 6 feet apart. Rails can usually be built 36 to 42 inches high (check local codes for guidance).

Building a deck gives you ample opportunity to customize it with a personal touch, and the handrails are an opportune place to add to the décor. Designs and materials vary greatly. Posts made of treated 4X4 lumber are typically used for structural strength, and they can be stained, sealed and left exposed, or they can be sheathed in a PVC sleeve and integrated into a sleek vinyl railing system. Rails and balusters are often made of wood, and you can install metal balusters, steel cable, or even glass panels between the posts.

297 SELECT YOUR STAIR SYSTEM

Stairs, stringers, and guardrails must meet the IRC design and strength requirements for tread height and opening/spacing requirements. The steps should have a consistent tread depth with a 7¾-inch maximum riser height. (A deviation of ⅜ inch is allowed by code but should be avoided.)

If the stairs have open risers they should not let a 4-inch diameter sphere pass through them. Just as with the maximum spacing for balusters, this is intended to prevent small children from getting stuck or falling through.

Stair landings must be at least as wide as the stair and at least 3 feet deep. Usually made from block or concrete, the landing must provide a safe exit from the stair and may not have a slope more than ¼ inch per foot.

Laying out the staircase is the first step. The pitch of your stairs will largely be determined by the rise and run you need to traverse to reach the landing, factored with a comfortable tread and riser height that adheres to local codes.

Another factor in the pitch of your stairs might be the handrail system. Whereas you can custom-build your handrails to the slope of your preference, purchased systems usually only work in a limited range of predetermined angles (such as 30 to 35 degrees). These requirements need to be accounted for when designing the stair layout.

Stair layout can be very complicated. Measuring and designing the stringers can be such a challenge for DIYers; home centers usually offer precut stringers for sale. Metal connectors can be used to connect the stair stringers to the deck frame. Code typically requires that stairs be supported by stringers spaced no greater than 2 feet apart on center.

298 CONSIDER YOUR OPTIONS

If you don’t want a handrail built from wood, you have plenty of other options. Deck railing systems are also available in metal, composite, and PVC. The systems vary in method of installation, so research your options carefully when selecting.

SLEEVE IT Some railing systems have a PVC sleeve to slip over a 4X4 treated post. The PVC protects he post from weather exposure and provides a sleek matching appearance to a vinyl baluster-and-rail system.

MAKE IT SOLID Other systems utilize a metal newel post inside a hollow PVC post sleeve, which is then filled with concrete.

LOOK THROUGH THE GLASS Glass balusters are available for a high-end look that optimizes visibility.

MAKE IT MODERN For a contemporary style with nighttime illumination, consider a stainless steel cable system with LED accent lights.

299 MAKE STAIRS SIMPLER

Another DIY-friendly alternative for stairway construction is to avoid using precut notched stringers and instead simply screw on L-shaped metal stair brackets to support the steps. The brackets eliminate the need to cut stair notches and reduce the measuring and marking as you fasten them to the full stringer boards.

STEP 1 Fasten the L-shaped stair brackets to the stringer boards.

STEP 2 Mount the stringers to both the deck and landing.

STEP 3 Install the treads over the tops of the stair brackets.

300 BUILD A FENCE

A fence can do a lot for a landscape: divide property lines, boost home equity, add to outdoor décor, and safely contain animals.

There are lots of options for materials and design. Fence building materials can vary, from metal and wood to vinyl and wood-plastic composites. For an easy-to-build fence, you might consider using pre-assembled panels to dramatically reduce building time.

If your yard is sloped, to keep the panel tops level you’ll have to stagger the panel heights where they are fastened onto the posts. If your yard has a significant grade, these staggered panels will create gaps at the bottom of the fence.

An alternative is a privacy fence that’s built to closely follow the grade of the yard. You can install the pickets along one side of the fence, or put in a shadowbox-style fence, which alternates the position of the pickets from one side of the stringer to the other.

Treated wood is often chosen for framing lumber. Posts can be made of 8-foot 4X4s, and the horizontal stringers (also called fence rails) can be made out of 8-foot 2X4s. The treated posts should be approved for ground contact.

For the fence boards (or pickets), use treated wood or a species such as cedar or redwood that has natural preservative oils to resist insects, decay, and chemical corrosion.

Set the posts with fast-setting concrete sold in ready-mix bags. Simply pour the mix straight out of the bag into the post hole. Once the post is buried, pour about a gallon of water per 50-pound bag over the dry mix, which then cures in about 30 minutes. Use roughly 1½ bags per post.

Fasten all connections with hot-dipped galvanized nails with ringed shanks for extra holding power. Be sure your fasteners are approved for exterior use in chemically treated lumber.

PRO TIP

TELL A STORY Prevent repetitive measurements with a story pole. Make one by marking each stringer height on a scrap piece of wood with masking tape, then place the pole alongside each post. Use the tape to determine each stringer location and mark it with pencil.

301 PLAN YOUR LAYOUT

Before building a fence, check with local officials regarding building codes and necessary permits. (Some neighborhoods might also have their own architectural guidelines or “covenants” that restrict design.) Double-check to be sure that the location of your proposed fence is not on a neighbor’s property. Before digging, always dial 811 nationally to get any underground utility lines, cables, and pipes marked for free.

Within local code limitations, the height, décor, and trajectory of your fence will be up to you, and may be dictated by other obstacles in your yard, such as trees and sheds.

STEP 1 Mark your fence layout with stakes and twine.

STEP 2 Pull the line tightly between corner stakes, then stake it intermittently along the fence perimeter to keep the string tight and straight.

STEP 3 Walk the perimeter with a tape measure and spray-paint a large “X” to pinpoint the placement of each fence post. Posts are usually spaced 6 to 8 feet on center. The closer the fence posts, the stronger the fence. This measurement is also crucial for the sake of your materials, as dimensional lumber is sold in standard sizes. If your posts are accidentally spaced 8 feet, 1 inch apart,an 8-foot board will be too short. In that event, you would have to purchase a 10-foot board and cut off 1 foot, 11 inches to create a long enough stringer, which is a waste of material.

302 DIG DEEP

Generally, you should dig holes for fence posts deep enough to bury a third of the overall length of the posts (at least 2 feet deep). Go deep enough to set the post below the frost line to avoid frost heaving; dig an extra 4 to 6 inches deeper than the desired post depth for a gravel bed beneath that post for drainage.

Prepare for lots of digging. A traditional way is with a manual clamshell digger and trench shovel. Get some help to speed things up, and rent a two-man powered auger for digging.

PRO TIP

GIVE THEM A SOAK While you’re digging, soak the bases of your posts in water sealer. Place about 4 posts upright in a tall bucket all at once. Their mass displaces the water, which rises to the top of the bucket, thus soaking the bottoms of the posts. After soaking them for about an hour, rotate four new posts into the bucket to soak.

303 POST UP

Posts are the backbone of your fence, so install them right to ensure a strong construction.

STEP 1 Begin by setting all the corner posts first. Have a helper hold the post upright while you use a hand level to make sure it is plumb on the gravel bed. A post level is also helpful, because it frees up your hands by strapping around the post while placing level vials on two adjacent sides.

STEP 2 Once the post is plumb left to right and back to front, then brace it in place. If you have a helper, they can hold it in position while you add concrete. Alternatively, nail scrap lengths of wood extending from the post to the ground to act as movable braces, with the nails serving as pivot points for adjustment. Plumb and square the post, adjust the braces to hold it steady, then add concrete. Use a sledge hammer to pound the posts into the ground once surrounded by concrete, then recheck for plumb, adjusting as needed once again. Leave the braces on while the concrete sets.

STEP 3 Once the corner posts are set, fasten a string between them to guide placement of the remaining posts. Keep the line on the outside face of the posts and secure it tightly. Set the rest of the posts, keeping their outside faces plumb and lined up exactly with the string.

STEP 4 Pour dry, fast-setting concrete mix into the post hole. Then just add water; no mixing is required. If you’re using standard concrete that should be premixed, you can mix small batches with a wheelbarrow and shovel or hoe, following the manufacturer’s instructions for the required amount of water. Allow the posts to set. Once the concrete is hardened, cover it with dirt and slope the earth away from the post to divert water.

304 STRING ’EM UP

With your posts properly set, your next objective will be to place the stringers.

STEP 1 For a standard 6-foot tall fence, position the bottom stringer 10 inches up from the ground and space the other two stringers evenly apart. You may need to alter placement depending on the height of your fence.

STEP 2 You have a variety of options for attaching your stringers, such as face-nailing, mortise and tenon joints, or toe-nailing. For a shadowbox fence, stringers are toe-nailed between posts by driving at least two nails into the side and one nail through the top of the stringer and solidly into the post.

STEP 3 If you’re toe-nailing stringers that follow a slope, cut them at a miter to fit flush between the plumb posts. First, butt the square end of one uncut stringer against the penciled location on your left-hand post. Hold that end firmly against the post while you position the other end of the stringer to overlap the right-hand post at the pencil marks. Mark the stringer, using the post as a pencil guide, and then remove the stringer and take it to the cutting table. Use an angle finder to transfer that angle to the left-hand end of the stringer. Before cutting the miters, recheck the post-to-post measurement to ensure you don’t cut too short; remember to account for the ⅛-inch wide blade kerf of a circular saw.

STEP 4 Expect a lot of nailing. A framing nail gun (either air-powered or cordless) can really be a huge help. Use 3-inch hot-dipped ring-shank nails for all framing members.

STEP 5 With all stringers in place, cut the tops of the posts with a reciprocating saw so they’re all the same height. Cut the posts in a manner that diverts water from standing atop the posts, which could contribute to rot. You can cut pyramid-like crowns, cover them with post caps, or just slice them off at an angle.

305 GO PICKETING

With posts and stringers done, it’s time for the boards of your fence. Attach the pickets securely against the stringers. For a shadowbox installation, cut a spacing block slightly narrower than the width of the boards, so there will be a slight degree of overlap among the alternating pickets.

Place the first board along the corner post and use a 4-foot level to find plumb. Nail it home, using two nails per stringer location. Position the spacing block next to the first picket and then place the second picket against it. Drive in one nail at the top stringer. Use that nail as a pivot while you find plumb, then nail that picket home as well. Follow suit all the way down the stringer, spacing each picket with the block. If your fence boards vary somewhat in height, keep an eye on the tops so that they line up consistently, adjusting their placement against the ground if necessary.

For shadowbox installation , once you reach the next post, return to the first post on the opposite side of the stringer. Center a picket across from each space provided by the spacing block to make the alternating picket style. Install the boards in the same manner—spacing, plumbing, and nailing.

If you prefer the picket tops to follow a straight line between posts, walk the fence and locate the high and low spots before installing. Tack pickets (preferably at the posts) to each of those high or low points. Start a nail in the top of those pickets, stringing line between them to guide picket alignment as you go.

306 MAKE A BIG FINISH

Your fence should be protected with a good waterproof sealer. Although time constraints and inclement weather don’t always allow it, it’s much easier to pre-apply the finish to the fence components before construction. Also, pre-finishing the boards grants access to all sides of the pickets and stringers that might otherwise be inaccessible once built. Use a stain/sealer product offered by a reputable manufacturer to help protect against rotting, water damage, and UV rays.

307 GIVE YOUR FENCE A GATE

This fence shown has two gates: a single-door gate and a two-door gate for a pickup truck.

It’s a good idea to purchase the beefiest hinge hardware available at the hardware store, because gate hinges are notorious for failure over time. Install according to the manufacturer’s instructions. To construct the doors, fasten all pickets on the outside of the stringers to provide a solid plane to mount the gate hinges.

When constructing the gate doors, use ample bracing. For large doors, pass on the conventional Z-shaped bracing in favor of a double-Z. Build each door with three 2X4 cross braces perpendicular to the fencing, connected by two diagonal braces, with the fence boards nailed into each brace they cross.

Correctly constructing your support posts is also critical. You will get more stability from 6X6 posts rather than 4X4s. Anchor each post with a concrete footing. Bury the post in the ground to a third of its height. Add extra strength at the base of the two posts by installing a horizontal post flush between the two, or use a poured bridge of concrete, to keep both posts from pulling toward each other at the bottom due to the weight of the gate doors.

308 SHELVE IT

Built-in shelving requires opening up a wall and then constructing a basic shelf case inside the space.

Before removing any wall studs, be sure that the wall is not load-bearing. Exterior load-bearing walls aren’t appropriate for built-in cases because removal of the wall eliminates insulation (and would require construction of a load-bearing header). If you want to locate shelves over a load-bearing wall, then build the case over the studs like a piece of furniture. For quick visual reference material as you work, try sketching your design on paper or diagram it on a computer.

309 DEMOLISH A WALL

Before cutting into a wall, disconnect electrical power in case you accidentally run into a wire.

STEP 1 Outline the planned shelf on the wall using painter’s tape, a T-square, and a pencil.

STEP 2 Seal off the work area with large vinyl sheeting for dust control.

STEP 3 Cut through the wallboard for access to the studs. Pry the wallboard off the studs with a flat bar.

STEP 4 Try to remove all the wallboard in large sections to minimize dust and debris.

STEP 5 Use a multi-tool with a flush-cut blade to cut through the nails holding the wallboard against all the studs on the opposite side of the wall. Then remove the wall studs from the area where you want to build.

310 CREATE A CASE

With your opening ready, it’s time for the case.

STEP 1 Cut a couple of the old studs as trimmer studs, which will frame the new shelves. Make sure to install the studs perfectly plumb.

STEP 2 Install plywood backing over the exposed drywall. Attach it using a combination of Liquid Nails construction adhesive and some strategically placed drywall screws. (Don’t screw through the drywall if it has a visible finished side.)

STEP 3 Use as few screws as you can to minimize wood-putty repairs. Clamp the plywood in place while the adhesive dries by tacking on temporary 2×4 cleats along the edges.

STEP 4 For the foundation, screw together 2×4 stud material in a rectangular box and strengthen it with blocking. This “toe-kick” box raises the bottom shelf a few inches off the floor and makes room for decorative base molding at the bottom. Screw the box into the lower plywood panel.

STEP 5 These shelves are designed with 1¼-inch nosing (½ inch overhanging the ¾-inch shelves), so fasten a layer of ½-inch plywood over the box to raise the bottom shelf.

STEP 6 Install the side panels. Mount them into the trimmer studs with 3-inch self-countersinking screws. The sides must be perfectly plumb and square to the back. The sides can be made from ¾-inch solid wood or plywood.

STEP 7 Putty and sand all fastener holes. Stain or prime/paint the case before adding the shelves. Apply paint with a foam roller, which achieves thorough coverage without leaving brush marks or the stippling effect of a roller nap.

311 MAKE YOUR SHELVES

Shelves are often constructed of stain-grade ¾-inch plywood or solid wood. Nosing or edging can be added to the edge of plywood shelves to achieve the look of solid wood.

STEP 1 Rip the shelves to width and length using a table saw or a circular saw equipped with a ripping guide. If adding ¾-inch nosing, cut the shelves ¾ inch narrower than the sides of the case to leave room. Rip the ¾-inch solid wood nosing (1½ inches wide in this case), and cut it at length to match the shelves. You can attach the shelves to the back of the case with pocket holes, then each can be supported from beneath with a horizontal cleat. Screws driven into each end will provide extra support at the sides.

STEP 2 Decide if the pocket holes will go on the top or bottom of the shelves. For the top, you’ll need wood plugs to hide the screws. If you choose the bottom, the shelves won’t have as much holding power with the screw heads angled downward (but support cleats should solve the problem). Use a pocket-hole jig to guide a stepped drill bit, spacing the pocket holes 12 to 18 inches apart along the sides and back.

STEP 3 Finish-sand the shelves in the direction of the wood grain, progressing to finer paper to at least 220-grit. Dust with a tack cloth, then apply wood stain and polyurethane sealer.

312 INSTALL THE SHELVES

Now that you’ve built your shelves for your wall case, it’s time to put them in their proper place.

STEP 1 Start at the bottom. The first shelf rests on the toe-kick box. Instead of using pocket screws, it’s fastened through the face using countersunk trim-head screws. The tiny screw heads are easy to hide with wood filler.

STEP 2 Locate the next shelf to conceal the joint between the plywood panels in the rear of the case. Once this critical shelf has been mounted, use it as a control point to install the remaining shelves at an equal distance apart from each other. (Note: The top shelf typically has some extra overhead space as room for storing any larger items.)

STEP 3 When installing, make sure the shelves are level in every direction. It helps to have an assistant, or use clamps and cabinet jacks, to hold the shelves during installation.

STEP 4 Fasten the shelves tightly along their edges using pocket screws and a pocket driver bit. When locating the shelves, remember that if your shelf nosing is taller than the shelves, then the vertical midpoint of that completed shelf will not be the same as the center point of the plywood (nose-less) shelf. You’ll need to account for this during the layout or your measurements will be off.

STEP 5 Once all shelves are mounted, install the nosing (stained and varnished to match). Make sure the upper edge of the nosing is flush with the shelf surface.

STEP 6 Fasten the nosing with wood glue and finish nails.

STEP 7 If you have installed the pocket screws from below the shelf, you can further support each shelf with a full-length horizontal support strip or “cleat” measuring roughly 1 x ⅜ inch. Rip this strip from solid wood, then fasten it flush against the underside of the shelf with a combination of wood glue and pin nails.

313 ADD TRIM WORK

The trim package that encloses the shelves can be as simple or as elaborate as you want.

STEP 1 The case shown below has vertical face-frames ripped to 2 inches wide that cover up the edges of the side panels. These face-frames were nailed to the case sides as well as to the nosing of the shelves, with their outer edges flush with the sides. Face-frames can give visual weight to a case for a more substantial look.

STEP 2 The toe-kick box was wrapped with baseboard molding mitered at the outside corners. The new trim was matched the room’s existing baseboard profile and intersected it with cope joints.

STEP 3 At the top, a “cap” panel of plywood hid the ceiling. The top of the case is then wrapped using a 1×6 that was mitered at the corners to serve as fascia for the case. Additional moldings are used to decorate the top and add shadow lines.

STEP 4 Pre-primed cove molding lines the sides of the case to conceal the joint against the wall for a finished appearance.

STEP 5 Once all trim was installed, fastener holes were puttied and all joints were all caulked as well. Repairs were sanded before a final coat of paint.

314 PUT IN YOUR OWN CARPET

Do-it-yourself carpet installation is the best approach for small rooms that don’t require a carpet stretcher. If there are no seams required, even better; carpet tools are available to rent, but rental costs will likely equal the cost of a professional installation job. The small-room scenario eliminates some of the pricier rental items and can sometimes be carpeted with little more than a knee-kicker, a carpet knife and carpet tucker (also called a broad knife).

STEP 1 Rough-cut the carpet to a workable size before hauling it into the room, to avoid lifting more than necessary and have less excess material obstructing the work area.

STEP 2 Recruit some help to lift the roll of carpet into the room—it’ll be heavy.

STEP 3 Cut the wooden tack strips (which anchor the carpet) to fit around the perimeter of the room. Leave room between the tack strip and the wall equal to the thickness of the carpet. Nail these strips to the floor. Lay carpet padding over the entire floor, butting the seams and taping them together. Staple the pad every 12 inches, working toward the tack strips, securing the pad against the edge of the strips.

STEP 4 Use a carpet knife and straightedge to cut the carpet roughly 6 inches longer and wider than the room. (If the room is too large for a single piece of carpet, you’ll need to join the seams using seam tape, a heat-bond iron, and a carpet-seam roller.)

STEP 5 Place the rug with the excess lapping up the walls. Relief cuts at corners will let the carpet lay flat.

STEP 6 Once the first corner is anchored, go to the adjacent corner along the long wall and anchor both sides of that corner just as you did the first corner. For a larger room, you might need to work using a carpet stretcher to pull the carpet tightly from one end of the room over to the other corner. Once that second corner has been anchored, proceed down the wall between the two installed corners, knee-kicking the carpet in place and trimming as you go. Follow this procedure to anchor the short wall. Install the second long wall and finish with the final short wall.

STEP 7 Trim the carpet as you go, cutting away the excess along the wall with a carpet knife.

STEP 8 Use a broad knife to tuck in the edge beneath the wall or floor trim.

PRO TIP

GIVE IT A KICK Even for small DIY jobs, a knee kicker is the one specialized tool necessary for carpet installation. Place the toothed end of the knee kicker on the carpet about 3 inches from the wall, starting in a corner and facing the long wall of the room. “Kick” the padded end of the tool with your knee, thus pushing the carpet over the tack strip to hook it in place. Use the carpet tucker to push the carpet firmly onto the tacks of the strip. Work about a yard down the wall, then repeat the same procedure along the adjacent short wall.

315 SEAM THE SECTIONS

If it is necessary to seam the carpet, plan the layout so the seams fall in low-traffic areas of the room. Butt together two straight seams and be sure the carpet lays flat and in line. Place a strip of hot-glue seaming tape centered beneath the edges. Slowly move the heated bonding iron under the carpet flaps and over the tape to melt the adhesive. As you move the iron down the seam, the flaps of carpet will fall back down onto the active adhesive. Use weights or a carpet-seam roller to firmly attach the carpet to the tape.

316 STRETCH YOUR CARPET

If you are using a carpet stretcher, start with the foot of the stretcher placed against the short wall of the starting corner. Make sure the carpet stretcher is placed against solid wall framing so that you don’t inadvertently “stretch” the tool right through the wallboard of the house. Angle the stretcher about 15 degrees toward the opposite corner. A carpet stretcher is a modular device in which the installer adds lengths of tubes between the head and foot of the tool to traverse the distance across the room. Set the toothed head of the stretcher about 6 inches from the wall and push down on the handle to stretch out the carpet. Once stretched, used the knee kicker to anchor it in place.

317 EDGE IT OUT

Where the carpet meets with the perimeter walls, the edges can be concealed by base molding and/or quarter round. Where carpet meets another flooring material, a transition molding such as a threshold, a carpet bar, or Z-bar binding strip may be installed for a more finished look. For low-pile carpets, some installers will simply fold the carpet under and staple it flatly. Other options include wooden thresholds, or you can hot-seam two carpet floors together if it meets another carpet of equal thickness.

318 GO MODULAR

An easy DIY approach to carpet installation is the use of modular floor tiles from companies such as Flor Inc. These 50-centimeter squares are available in a massive array of colors and styles. These can be used for wall-to-wall carpet or to accent certain areas of the floor. They’re also portable. If you want to move the carpet to another room or another home, just pull up the squares and re-install. In case of stains or spills, just replace that single square rather than the entire rug.

STEP 1 Simply measure the dimensions of your floor to determine the quantity of tiles needed. Consider the use of various patterns, accent colors, and border tiles to develop a decorative style.

STEP 2 Lay the tiles on the floor with their seams butted together. In some cases it may help to snap a chalk line to keep the layout square with the walls.

STEP 3 Use the included adhesive discs to anchor the squares together. Peel away their backing and place each disc, adhesive-side up, at the intersection of four tiles to adhere to the four corners and hold them together. Do the same around the perimeter of the carpet.

STEP 4 For wall-to-wall applications, or other situations where the carpet tiles need to be cut, use a metal straight edge to guide a sharp carpet knife. Just score the flexible backing of the tile a few times to get a nice, clean cut.

319 FIND LOST TREASURE

Sometimes, a hardwood floor is hiding under carpeting installed by the previous residents. Often, your first indication of this will be in a closet, where the carpeting stops. To check it out, use a pair of pliers to grab some carpet pile and pull it back. Pull back the pad to see what’s underneath. You may find a floor that could be worth restoring.

STEP 1 To completely remove carpet to access the hardwoods, grab the pile with some pliers and pull upward until your utility knife won’t reach to the hardwood floor underneath. Cut along the edges and fold it back, then roll up the carpet and pad into the center of the room for disposal.

STEP 2 Remove the tack strips and carpet-pad staples with a pry bar, hammer, scraper, and push broom.

STEP 3 If staples break off, sink them into the wood using a nail set.

320 FIX DAMAGED FLOORING

Normal wear and tear dulls a wood floor’s finish. Furniture can scratch the surface; water damage can cause buckling, separation, and even rot in the flooring. Occasionally, homeowners may need to refinish the floor, replace some floorboards, or a combination of both. The biggest challenge when replacing flooring is to interlace the new section into the old. If the damaged area is very large, you may be better off replacing all of the flooring in the room rather than trying to patch it.

STEP 1 To remove a damaged section of the floor, cut across the boards just outside the damaged area. Set the blade depth to cut just through the flooring, not into the subfloor. Keep a good grip on the saw and wear eye protection as you cut across the flooring, because if the boards were blind-nailed through the tongue, you won’t know when you’ll hit a nail.

STEP 2 Pull out the cut boards without affecting the good part of the floor. Each cut board will need to be removed. Because they are locked in with tongue and groove, you will need to slide them toward the void left by the removed flooring. Start by drilling a pocket at 45 degrees with a ¾-inch spade bit.

STEP 3 Place the end of a pry bar or large punch in the pocket. Strike the bar to drive the floor board toward the void until you can tap the end with a hammer. Be careful not to damage the adjacent boards.

STEP 4 Remove all the boards in the affected area down to the subfloor and then thoroughly clean out all debris.

STEP 5 Install the new hardwood row by row with the first piece matching into the existing floor. Since you will be working with random length boards, be sure that end joints do not line up with joints on the adjacent row of boards. Make cuts only on the wall end of the last piece in each row.

STEP 6 Blind-nail the boards at an angle where the tongue meets the edge of the board. Finish nailers can also be used to nail through the face of the board in areas next to walls where the gun cannot be angled into the tongue. Identify any loose boards in the floor and nail those as well.

STEP 7 When all boards have been replaced or nailed, vacuum the entire floor using a powerful shop vac. Remove all dust and debris from nail holes, joints, and cracks.

321 FINISH THE FLOOR

Once you’ve replaced the damaged flooring, it’s time to finish, sand, and seal.

FILL UP You’ll want to apply a quality latex putty over the entire floor surface. A drywall taping knife makes a good tool for applying latex putty. Apply enough pressure to force putty into the cracks and nail holes. Scrape off excess putty as you go.

SAND IT Before sanding, seal off any areas where you don’t want dust to go using plastic sheeting and tape. Next, use a drum sander to sand the main part of the floor. Whether sanding off old floor finish or starting with new raw wood, you will need to start with a coarse-grit paper for the rough-sanding phase.

When you rent the drum sander, rent an edge sander as well. If your floor area has cabinets with toe kicks, make sure you get a sander with a low profile at the sanding disk so it will fit beneath them.

Make sure you know how to change the paper on both sanders. You will have to change paper as the grit wears off, as the grit clogs with old floor finish, or when you complete a pass with one grit number and need to graduate to a finer grit.

The rental outlet that supplies the sander will usually supply the paper as well. The supplier can make grit suggestions for your type of project. It’s a good idea to take more paper than you might need and return what isn’t used.

SEAL IT After the floors have been sanded and vacuumed, apply a penetrating sanding sealer. Use a sponge brush along the edges first. Next, just pour the sealer onto the floor to cover up the center and spread it with a T-bar applicator. Keep your movements smooth and coverage even, and don’t overwork the product. Spread it in thin coats, leave it to dry, and then repeat the process according to the manufacturer’s instructions.