With 82.8 million inhabitants, the Federal Republic of Germany (Bundesrepublik Deutschland) is the most populous country in the European Union and one of the largest, covering an area of 357,000 sq km (138,000 sq miles). Some of its frontiers are formed by natural boundaries such as the North Sea and Baltic to the north, and the Alps to the south. In the north and west, the climate is maritime and temperate, moderated by the North Sea and the fading embers of the Gulf Stream. To the east, a continental weather pattern generally holds, characterised by hot summers and cold winters. The southern Alps have, almost by definition, an alpine climate, with altitude delivering cooler temperatures in summer and plenty of snow come winter.
Frankfurt, Germany’s financial hub
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Today’s Germany
Germany remains the economic powerhouse of Europe. Its industrial products are second to none, its towns and cities are linked by a superlative network of Autobahnen (motorways) and high-speed railway lines, and its people continue to enjoy one of the world’s highest standards of living. The reunification of the country in 1990 was accomplished peacefully, and billions have been spent on bringing the infrastructure of former East Germany (GDR) up to Western standards. Nevertheless, differences in attitude continue to distinguish people from the East (‘Ossis’) and West (‘Wessis’). Unemployment is still a problem, particularly among young and elderly people in the east. The level had been coming down since record highs in 2005 until the global financial crisis hit in 2008, reversing some of the gains. With the country’s emergence from recession in late 2009 and a continued growth in GDP and the all-important export sector through 2017, the trend in unemployment turned favourable once again. Howevver, parts of the east are becoming depopulated as their inhabitants move away in search of work, and there are fears that a declining and ageing population will be unable to maintain the high standard of social welfare that Germans have become used to.
State size
The largest of Germany’s Länder is Bavaria (70,546 sq km/27,238 sq miles), the smallest the port-city states of Hamburg (755 sq km/292 sq miles) and Bremen (404 sq km/156 sq miles).
Regional Diversity
For most of its history, Germany was not a united country, but was divided into myriad states and a number of prosperous cities proudly maintained their independence. This has left an extraordinary array of capital cities.
Until 1871, Berlin was the capital of Prussia and, despite its subsequent growing importance as the national capital, other cities continued to think of themselves as the natural focus of their regions. This was especially true in post-war West Germany, with Berlin embedded deep behind the Iron Curtain.
While the little Rhineland town of Bonn became the seat of the West German government, cities such as Cologne, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Hanover and Hamburg flourished, with Frankfurt, becoming the country’s financial capital. Munich, seat of a monarch as recently as 1918, has never thought of itself as anything other than a capital city. The continuing importance of Germany’s regions and regional capitals finds expression in the country’s decentralised, federal political structure; its 16 states (Land, Länder plural) have many powers and responsibilities held by central government in other countries.
Most of Germany’s cities suffered terrible devastation in World War II. In the West, they were swiftly rebuilt, with many historic buildings immaculately restored. In the East, funds and sometimes the will were lacking for a comparable effort, but since reunification much has been accomplished. In 2005 Dresden’s completely rebuilt Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) was finally reconsecrated. In the former East Berlin, the vast Berliner Stadtschloss (Berlin City Palace) – the seat of imperial Germany’s Kaisers, which was destroyed by World War II Allied bombing – is being rebuilt.
Outside the cities, the countryside has a wealth of castles, palaces, abbeys and, in the Catholic south, pilgrimage churches. There are also some of the most perfectly preserved small historic towns in Europe, including the succession of exquisite little cities like Rothenburg ob der Tauber strung out along the Romantic Road heading southwards to the Alps.
Varied Landscapes
The most spectacular peaks are those of the Bavarian Alps, but mountains and upland massifs cover much of the country, where there are endless opportunities for hiking. Lakes abound, the largest, Lake Constance, is a veritable inland sea shared with Austria and Switzerland. The upland massifs are threaded by rivers, the greatest of which is the Rhine, at its most scenic in the castle-studded gorge between Bingen and Koblenz. Other waterways are just as attractive, especially where their banks are graced with vineyards, like the Mosel, Main in the west, and the Elbe in the east.
The Germans love the beaches of the North Sea and Baltic, and the seaside is perhaps best enjoyed on one of the many islands, from Borkum, the westernmost of the Frisian islands, to Rügen in the Baltic, Germany’s largest island
Bavarian dancers in full swing
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Green Germany
Woodlands cover approximately a third of Germany’s surface, a greatly appreciated background to everyday life and the inspiration for much art and literature. Spruce, fir and pine dominate mountains and heathlands, but the Germans’ sacred tree, the stately oak, is suffering the effects of climate change, with one in every two oak trees officially sick.
Environmental Issues
Recycling waste is almost a national obsession, and the environmental impact of new developments such as motorways arouses fierce passions and often determined opposition. From 1998 to 2005, the Green Party was the minority partner in a coalition government with the Social Democrats and was able to advance its environmental agenda, most notably with the decision to end nuclear power generation by 2022. The number of wind turbines, solar cells and biogas power stations has been steadily increasing to meet ambitious targets for renewable energy and reducing greenhouse gas emissions. However, coal production has increased, in part to offset the loss of nuclear power. In 2010, national controversy arose when the governing Conservative and Liberal coalition attempted to postpone the decommissioning of Germany’s 17 nuclear power stations.
Activities
Germany has plenty of recreational facilities ranging from lavish theme parks to Olympic-sized swimming pools and well-signposted walking and cycling routes. Steamers ply Lake Constance and the major rivers while silent electric craft skim the pristine waters of the Königsee. Cable cars whisk sightseers to the tops of mountains, while, veteran steam trains chug along dozens of Museumsbahnen (preserved railway lines).
The majority of visitors come to Germany between May and September, when the weather is warm. July and August are the wettest months, though it is rare for rain to persist for more than a day or two. The big cities make excellent short-break destinations throughout the year. Winters bring cold, occasionally freezing weather, with fairly reliable snow cover in the Alps between December and March.